318 stroker oil leak :(

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I still vote for intake. Make sure your valve covers are vented well. I just changed to a Holley a few days ago. It only had one vacuum line so I hooked up the brake booster and figured the PCV could just vent. 20 miles down the road I realize the PCV won't open without vacuum and I am building pressure. I pulled into a local O'Reilly's and bought a K&N breather but it was too late. The intake blew in the front and oil was pooled on top of the water pump. I cleaned it up and now it only seeps, but a leak is a leak. Stupid me, but I am getting damn good at doing intakes on small block Mopars.
 
[QUOTE=Mopar to ya;1969532705 It only had one vacuum line so I hooked up the brake booster and figured the PCV could just vent. 20 miles down the road I realize the PCV won't open without vacuum and I am building pressure. I pulled into a local O'Reilly's and bought a K&N breather but it was too late.

If there is no access from the manifold for another hose just get a tee and run both off the same port. Done it several times without a issue.
 
just a quick update;, didn't get it done for the mopar show or for my son's first bday party on saturday and today the beach sounded much nicer than turning wrenches in the heat.

I got new intake gasket set felpro pn: ms90109 and will begin rippin down (hopefully if the wife allows lol) tonight and let the rtv set up, i won't be using the end gasket peices even though i'm always tempted to use every piece in the box lol will let you guys know how it turns out n hopefully have a vid up of the motor runnin leak free!!! love the sound of the mutha thumpa cam!!!!!!

thanks for all who have shared experiences, ideas and thoughts on this :D
 
On the front passenger's side make sure you run that bead all the way to the head. The block curves towards the back in that area and often one does not put enough sealer there. Wipe surfaces down with brake parts cleaner and fresh paper towels to get them oil free.
 
:banghead:Arrrrgh :blah5:

replaced intake gasket and made no difference to the amout of oil leaking out!!! was very careful with the install let rtv set up before assembly and cured 24hours before firing it up. I made everythin sparkling clean before firing it over and wiping all areas at rear of block showed no traces of oil (fixed my oil pressure sending unit leak). its dusk now and i tried using a bright spot light to see if i could shine the light off the decayed dino sauce but nothing i could see from above or below

guess my next step is taking the oil pan off n replace the rear main seal, never done one but doesn't seem too complicated.....

any other thoughts or suggestions before i throw more money at it lol birthdays comin up so a few bucks shouldn't be a prob ;)
 
If it was me, I'd probably just pull the engine out. If the rear plugs are seaping you'll see it. There are three oil system pipe plugs back there inside the bell that could be leaking, but my money's on the cam plug because it's not gushing like a leaking oil gally plug would. In any event, you can clearly see everything with it out, and if the pipe plugs and cam plug prove clean and dry, you can do the pan gasket much easier.
 
666mopower666 said:
:banghead:Arrrrgh :blah5:




any other thoughts or suggestions before i throw more money at it lol birthdays comin up so a few bucks shouldn't be a prob ;)
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Yes refer to post #6 lol

Now you know why I haven't fixed my oil leak. I just don't want to pull the engine. The oil leak isn't that bad enough.
 
ya i don't want to pull the motor either lol few years waiting to get it all back together and now so close but guess i don't have much choice :(

pulled the starter and inspection plate today (again) the flex plate now has oil on it after sitting so i'm guessing it coming from up high on the block ie oil galley/cam plugs sigh don't know how th eoil is sneakin out and gettin onto the headers cuz boy she smokes while running but more n more seems like i gotta re/re motor

anyone done or think its possible to pull the trans and get to the plugs that way?
should i just pull the plugs and reseal them??? use teflon on it or what do you guru's suggest to seal these?

i have huge faith in my machine shop, he's a big mopar guy and new all about my motor/combo before i finished asking him and seems minor stuff like oil gallies/cam plugs would be a no brainer for him. Thats why i thought more likely rear main from sitting but doubt the rear main would get onto the exhaust.....
 
ohh and forgot to give you guys a laugh from my ford neighbour, he's a good body/paint guy but clueless on mech issues. his wisdom was to run it for awhile and see if the seals tighten up. No way in hell i'd take advice from him just thought it was funny for ford guy to run a motor n hope it stops leaking lol sure he buys all the magic engine additive/stop leak crap too

sure there is a lil truth in that ie, oil pressure dropping once broken in (she runs at 75-80psi currently) but unless i'm way off and anyone thinks he had a good idea i'll be gearing up for the motor pull
 
You can reach the plugs with the tranny pulled. But- the cam plug might be hard to properly remove and clean. Plus - let's say the plugs are tight and the plug is dry... Then the main is leaking and you have to pull everything anyway. For me, I can have an engine out in a couple hours neatly and have to be on my back for about 20 minutes of that time. taking out a trans for me (no lift) is hell...lol. Nevermind trying to fit into the trans tunnel to replace the plugs...lol.
 
That one picture looks like its running out not seeping.And the oil in the exhaust makes me thing you have a destroyed head gasket or cracked head/block.If i was going to remove something it would be the engine because what if its not the plugs and you removed the tranny for nothing.
 
mopar410 i don't like you!!!
lol j/k just don't like thinking that way haha no one wants to think that but i better be ready for anything

def appreciate everyones insights and advice.

wife's off work in an hour then i'll start pulling the motor, got abit of the lil stuff taken off already so hopefully have the block yanked n can post a few pics of what i discover

thanks again to everyone
 
oh and just so i clarify there is no smoke coming out the exhaust just drippin down onto the headers and burning off there on both sides and similar amounts too, sorry if my other post sounded like the exhaust had smoke in it
 
Man i'm feelin' for you right now. Really thought the intake would do the trick. I'll be watching with everyone to see what you find. Good luck and don't get too frustrated, we've all had issues to deal with we couldn't explain.:)
 
Once you get that engine on a stand run the oil pump with a drill and check for leaks.

Always best to pull the engine and put on stand. So much easier to work on when its right in front of you vs under the car or leaning over a fender for hours. Now a days if its any significant work I just pull the whole thing out.
 
666mopower666 said:
wife's off work in an hour then i'll start pulling the motor, got abit of the lil stuff taken off already so hopefully have the block yanked n can post a few pics of what i discover

thanks again to everyone
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I hear ya! We'll help and root you on!:cheers:
 
ok guys tell me what you think

pulled the motor n looked for oil at cam/galley plugs no trace on paper towel so i used baby powder like this
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then used 30psi in the compressor and blew all the powder off
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everything looks dry right? well i think the oil pan gasket is to blame
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pita way too find out but hopefully ya'll agree with my diagnosis
 

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By the time you removed the engine I was going to say make sure you have a good seal at the oil pan needs alot of RTV.While you have it out double check the rear seal make sure its turn the right way.Pointy tip goes to the center.
 
At this point i have to agree with the pan diagnosis. Still don't understand how it seemed so widespread before?
I assume you took the pics from a hoist. This might sound nuts, but if you put 2-3 extra quarts in it and tilt the engine rearward and see if you can locate the spot it's coming from. From what i've seen so far it should be pretty obvious. If it's not i have to wonder about a crankcase pressure issues.
 
OldmanRick said:
At this point i have to agree with the pan diagnosis. Still don't understand how it seemed so widespread before?
I assume you took the pics from a hoist. This might sound nuts, but if you put 2-3 extra quarts in it and tilt the engine rearward and see if you can locate the spot it's coming from. From what i've seen so far it should be pretty obvious. If it's not i have to wonder about a crankcase pressure issues.
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I believe the oil sending unit was leaking some and giving a false reading.

What seems odd to me is the OP has alot of sealant on the oil seal.Its odd that its leaking that much.that area doesn't run in oil so its just run down that is leaking and its just running straight out of the motor.Make sure you get enuff sealant under the rear main along the "ears",not the rear seal tho, and that the rear main is not wedged causing a small gap.
 
ya while i was hoisting it up i had to tilt it back quite a bit and alot of oil poured out from the rear end/crank area i will use your advice oldmanrick and pour a lil more oil down its belly and watch real close where its coming from.

I've done the oil pan gasket a few times over the years on this motor and never had a problem like this, i know the cork had squeezed out at the right rear corner but the bolts were always dry, lol hafta admit i didn't know that rubber pan end gasket went in one way so it may have been my goof

anyways its pouring rain out and i barely got the motor plugged up and covered hopefully tomorrow will let me finish the job
 
Cam plug in backwards, let me get a pic of mine and you'll see the problem. The first is of my new 360 and the second is from a 1970 318 that is factory original. It's my small parts motor. I made that mistake on a 70 340 years ago. I had the same problem you have and pulled the trans to fix it. It sucks laying on your back trying to get the old one out and a new one in. I think the cam bangs against the cup and lets it leak oil.
 

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My nephew built a 318 stroker about 6 months ago & had a similar leak, I`m pretty sure he said It was coming out of the distributor gasket!! I will ask him tonight about it.
 
666mopower666 said:
anyways its pouring rain out and i barely got the motor plugged up and covered hopefully tomorrow will let me finish the job
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Stay dry and let us know what you find next. Earlier you posted you had confidence about the plugs and your machine shop. Well it looks like they did a fine job on those as far as leaks.
 
Maybe the rear main seal was installed backwards with the lip facing outward instead of inward? The actual 'rear main seal', Under the main bearing cap #5 that the oil pump bolts to. Not to be confused with the rear seal on the oil pan itself, which is just an oil pan seal. Pull the pan and unbolt main cap #5 and check to make sure the lip is facing the right way?
 
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