Hey everyone i have a 318 that is going in my 76 duster and as of right now it is at the machine shop getting some work done bored out and what not i already have 202 heads and a 509 cam for it but i need a intake and carb and distributor just wondering what works and what everyone has any help is great thanks
318 upgrades questions
- Thread starter dwak
- Start date
-
Thats a lot of cam for a 302 headed 318, is gonna put you race engine territory. Your gonna need deep gears lots of stall, high compression, fully ported heads and turn a lot of rpm to take advantage of it.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
Eddy 1406 600 with its strip kit. any used 2 plane intake for sale cheap. mod dist subsystems in order: initial/total to 35/springs/vac adv, with HEI module/Ecoil or parts house 4 pin Mopar ECU/OE ballast/blaster 2 coil. much milder cam. #1 #1 good free flowing exhaust/mandrel bends. 302's ? do some home porting
Toss the cam choice away,my opine.. A Summit Racing K6900 fits sweetly here, any decent dual plane & a GOOD TIMING CHAIN ! Degree the cam ,light the tires off, guy.
Apologies Honored Posters,...
---dwak---,
What is the 'focus' of the build?
Street/Strip?
Just Cruise?
Short Fuse Drag Racing ?
Thx!
Yes its alot of cam and probably not the best choice but i got it for 60 bucks with the lifters new so ya and intended use will be whatever i dont plan on drag racing it but it'll get raced a few times here and there i dont plan on using it as a daily driver but when i do drive it i want to be able to punch it and go somewhere in a hurry if the need arises thanks
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I got some gas once for really cheap, but it was contaminated and the car ran like crap.
But I got the gas cheap.
See my point?
If I were you I would listen to these guys on that cam before you end up having to take it out and cost yourself even more.
But it's so hard to pass up a bargain....
[ame]https://youtu.be/1ZOdVqlvys0[/ame]
[ame]https://youtu.be/1ZOdVqlvys0[/ame]
You say you have "202" heads. Is that 2.02 valves or a misprint meaning to say "302" casting heads?
My street strip recommendation for intake, carb & a distributor would be;
Edelbrock RPM-AG. The smaller, straighter runners of the intake will (or very well should) help the engine produce better numbers Orr the Weiand even though the Weiand moves more air. It's more of the quality of the air and fuel moving through the intake into the head and cylinders over volume which is important for the smaller size of the engine. A high velocity of highly atomized fuel will be best for your engine at this point.
650 cfm carb. I suggest a DP mechanical secondary Holley with a 4 corner is system.
Any distributor will work fine so long as it can be taylored to suite. I have had good results with Don @ 4secondsflat.com with his ignition parts.
In addition to the engine set up, call a place like Dynamic for a custom converter and be prepare to tell him every detail of the engine build. This will insure a great converter for your car.
For rear gears, at least 4.10's. 4.30's would be nicer. Run a 26-1/2 (1/2 ether way is OK) tire as wide as possible.
If you have "302" casting numbers on your head, I suggest 1 of 2 routes to take. This is your call. Ether;
Fully port the 302 head with 2.02/1.60 valves to match the bigger 340/360 ports OR...
Purchase Edelbrock heads and the. Have a machinist look it over.
The cost is close to the same when all is said and done.
Last word for advice, run a compression ratio of not more than 10-1 (which is high and pushing it) on the iron head with 93 octane. 11-1 with the Edelbrock head, with your current cam.
60 bucks for a 509 mopar performance pupple cam and lifters i say just about anyone would have bought it and there cast iron heads with 202 values they are also at the shop getting work done sorry im not trying to start a fight here im just looking for advice on the stuff i need thanks
I'm a big fan of "Use what ya got",, if that is what the budget allows..Back to the cam,, you will need more compression than the stock 8 to 1 (about) that a 318 has.BUT I did the big cam with a stone stock 75 low compression 360. The sound was great,bad *** crusin' around with headers and a nice dual exhaust.Didn't run bad.Had to add 3.91 gears to make it go.It was better than when it was a stock 2 bbl.Not great but better.Have fun with it,up grade when you can.
What are you planning on for converter and rear gears?
If not making changes there, it might be better to invest in a different cam.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Well actually not anyone would have bought it. I would have bought it only to resell and try to make a bit of profit to get a more suitable cam for the engine. A lift in the range of the mid-upper .400's with as small a duration as you can get and a cam lobe separation of 112 degrees is where I would be heading.
Honestly, no one is trying to fight you here at all; it is just that with the low compression of the stock 318 with open chamber heads (which I am just guessing is what you have), this cam is going to make the low compression even lower, and it would be expected to run worse than stock at low RPM's. With the stock type TC, the TC will start putting a load on the engine before it has revved up anywhere nearly enough to make decent torque, and it will be like releasing the clutch on a manual car with the RPM's way too low and it will bog down.
It will only start making torque and power at the mid and high RPM's. Even a smaller carb like 600-650 CFM won't make it better down at the low RPM's, and a large carb to match the cam will raise the minimum RPM where it start making torque. So IMO there really is not a suitable carb except a large one so it can breathe at the mid and higher RPM's, and it still won't be good unless you increase the TC stall, change the rear gear, and plan on it pretty mcuh being a higher RPM engine. (And I am speaking from having done a wild cam engine for racing that would not even start making usable torque until 3800 RPM!)
That is simply what this cam is. Cams and the labor and complications involved are very cheap compared to TC's + gears.
Use that cam and it will be a dog , cams are relatively cheap . No one here is looking for a fight , just telling you from experience . Lots of good advice in his thread , up to you , good luck , hope the car will run well .
With factory gearing it sure will be. When I upgraded my cam and still ran the 2.76's, it was disappointing at best, until I got up into the power band.
I went with the 3.55's and it really woke it up.
I went with the 3.55's and it really woke it up.
Infecteddog
Well-Known Member
Thing is- that 509 would be a good match for 2.02 valve 360 heads, a very good flowing intake like the air gap or LD340, headers with 3.9 gears but for a small port head 318 with a cheap intake and stock gears it will likely not be able to be taken well advantage of. The thing is for what you want to do- not care about racing it and just want it to respond well it's a step in the wrong direction. Had a car for a while with a bitty Edelbrock cam and 3.55s with short tires. You could drive it sideways everywhere. It wasn't fast and it tired out quickly but was quick up to speed, made lots of racket, and in those respects was a blast despite having less HP than the 340 would've stock.
What cast number are your 2.02 valve heads?
The thing about what you're wanting to do is that you can give up the compression but it'd be better with it. You can't give up the gear, need a good converter, and need a good intake and exhaust. Not a good idea for a car you're not out to race often on the cheap.
We understand you're stuck on using that cam. What folks are telling you it isn't going to perform the way you want. I think you will be sadly disappointed.
I asked before, are you planning a converter and rear gear upgrade?
Been told from people i know and trust one being the person i got the cam from that it'll work just fine even the guy boring out the block and work on on the heads said it'll be fine as long as i have the right gears in the rear end as of right now i do not have a good rear end for the car and i am looking for one and ocne i get it if it doesn't have the right gears i will put the right ones in it
Sure, it will work with the other necessary upgrades. Converter 5 to 600 bucks, rear gearing 5 to 6 hundred unless you know how to properly set them up.
Do you have power brakes? What's your plan for keeping those working?
Do you have power brakes? What's your plan for keeping those working?
Infecteddog
Well-Known Member
Right. The point in bringing up the head casting numbers as significant is because the 302s don't flow well compared to 360 heads. You're stepping into a zone where flow will be very important and those 318 port heads aren't going to be ideal if that's what you have. Sure, they're fine for a little .450 lift spin-off of the 360 2 barrel cam but for the cam you got there'll be much better choices.
You've been told what people thought the best intake was- the RPM Air Gap. They're not cheap but the cheap Performer will be worse for this app than a stock 360 truck intake. So if you're gonna try to skimp, buy a $10 iron intake not a $75 aluminum 318 intake.
What's more, since you've got such a high goal on your cam- little places you skimp will see big power losses. The stock converter will hurt bad on top of the drivability. 318 log manifolds will severely limit power as the 318 port heads likely will also. It'll require more money to make it work well than to buy a better suited cam and not have to change all that immediately.
As has everyone here. They've also told you make sure you have the right converter, a good intake, good heads, and good exhaust.
From what I've seen- your goals and that cam don't line up. It won't be quick without lots of gear in it and a good converter. It'd be better suited to a bracket car than a punch it and go quickly street car that's not geared toward racing.
This is an important statement too. Even in iron heads there are some seriously good heads that can be extremely difficult to match the flow of for the price redoing stockers.
-
Similar threads
