340-416 Stroker Kit best pricing/ best experience

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RIBOATSERVICES

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Hi, looking to purchase 340/416 stroker kit. Looking for complete kit, 500-700 hp capable, forged crank, forged pistons .030 over, h-beam rods, balanced , rod-main bearings/rings. Who has had the best experience and best price out there? Anyone care to share thier experience`s before I toss out my hard earned cash? Thanks
 
I bought a Scat kit from Brian at IMM . We checked everything backwards and forwards. Spot on.

But if you are going to in that upper HP range, you might be out of the realm of a "kit". I mean there is a lot of difference between 500 hp and 700 hp. I think you need to narrow down what you want/need/afford/can live with to build.
 
When I had my 416 in my 1974 Challenger, most of the parts were from Mancini racing.
I didn't built the engine,but had the invoice and paper when I bought it.
Was realy sweet with over 520HP!

The sound of that engine was so sick!! I still regret today selling this car :( ....loved it

DSCF0041.jpg
 
I bought a Scat kit from Brian at IMM . We checked everything backwards and forwards. Spot on.

But if you are going to in that upper HP range, you might be out of the realm of a "kit". I mean there is a lot of difference between 500 hp and 700 hp. I think you need to narrow down what you want/need/afford/can live with to build.

x2 on the Scat kit! Forged crank & pistons, balanced all pistons were damn near identical. Can't beat the quality & performance for the $$. Definitely good for 500+ hp and 500 torque. Just fired mine up last weekend for the first time!
 
I just bought a forged Scat rotating assembly two weeks ago from Summit for $1389.55 Crank, rods and pistons only. No balance, bearings or rings. It is supposed to arrive tomorrow!!!
 
I bought a Scat kit from Brian at IMM . We checked everything backwards and forwards. Spot on.

But if you are going to in that upper HP range, you might be out of the realm of a "kit". I mean there is a lot of difference between 500 hp and 700 hp. I think you need to narrow down what you want/need/afford/can live with to build.
Thanks Steve, I`m really looking for a forged kit that can handle 500 hp and stay together for a while for street use and the few times a year it gets to the track. Trying to make picking the right kit as easy as possible without having to wonder if all the parts are correct and balanced properly. I`ve seen a few posts where kits have been ordered and the wrong bearings are sent, ect. Do you have Brian`s contact info at IMM, i will give him a buzz or shoot an email. Thanks for your feedback ! Dan
 
Thanks Steve, I`m really looking for a forged kit that can handle 500 hp and stay together for a while for street use and the few times a year it gets to the track. Trying to make picking the right kit as easy as possible without having to wonder if all the parts are correct and balanced properly. I`ve seen a few posts where kits have been ordered and the wrong bearings are sent, ect. Do you have Brian`s contact info at IMM, i will give him a buzz or shoot an email. Thanks for your feedback ! Dan

http://www.immengines.com/

IMM Engines
45761 Flower Street
Indio CA 92201
Phone#:760-347-5493
Email: [email protected]

I probably only have 450 hp. But I think the cast crank is good to 500-550hp.

I've beat the snot out of mine for the last two year. I have 4145.4 miles on it (just checked). I cruise down the hwy at about 3600 rpm. If traffic is moving in the left lane I'm at 3800 rpm. Or if I'm in a hurry 4000 rpm plus.

I get to about 5800 rpm on the track. Track is about 80 miles driving from my house.

:cheers:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTT--mGlpTY"]Spring Fling Speed Festival 2011: '68 Barracuda "S" - YouTube[/ame]
 

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http://www.immengines.com/

IMM Engines
45761 Flower Street
Indio CA 92201
Phone#:760-347-5493
Email: [email protected]

I probably only have 450 hp. But I think the cast crank is good to 500-550hp.

I've beat the snot out of mine for the last two year. I have 4145.4 miles on it (just checked). I cruise down the hwy at about 3600 rpm. If traffic is moving in the left lane I'm at 3800 rpm. Or if I'm in a hurry 4000 rpm plus.

I get to about 5800 rpm on the track. Track is about 80 miles driving from my house.

:cheers:

Spring Fling Speed Festival 2011: '68 Barracuda "S" - YouTube
Steve, thanks for the info ! I see you used main studs, did you have clearance for the oil pump or did you have to use stock bolt ? Dan
 
Being that you are in RI and you're looking at shipping accross the country - you might try either Dan at Performance Only Racing Engines http://www.performanceonlyracing.com/Contact-Us.html in FL or Dwayne Porter at Porter Racing Heads http://www.yellowpages.com/south-burlington-vt/mip/porter-racing-heads-9744124 or MRL on this site and in MI... They can all supply a ready to install package.
thanks moper, i`ll check them also. Since you are in east conn, do you have a good machine shop recommendation in our area ? Thanks, Dan
 
I got my last rotating assembly from Rod Bloomer @ BPE - He does small block mopar ONLY and every single piece he sent over did not need any further machining - aside from balancing of course.
 
Steve, thanks for the info ! I see you used main studs, did you have clearance for the oil pump or did you have to use stock bolt ? Dan

Cut the bolt rounded the nut. It's a Milodon stud kit.

Scat is in So Cal here in Redondo Beach. So it's getting shipped from here one way or the other. Brian at IMM can even drop ship direct from Scat.

If it's shipped from 100 miles away or 2000 miles away, it's still shipped. Some price difference, not huge. And the price will very other than shipping too.
 

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I got my last rotating assembly from Rod Bloomer @ BPE - He does small block mopar ONLY and every single piece he sent over did not need any further machining - aside from balancing of course.

thats the direction I'm going, Bloomer has a great rep.
I'm stripping the block down now for tanking and testing, 430 cubes has a nice ring to it.
 
It's been some time since I was there... Gary is the owner and normally who I deal with... Mike is the counter guy - nice guy but not as technical as I need. There are a few others there. My friend Kenny I think is still there (runs the Rottler CNC and does the sleeving and block work). He's also decent guy to talk to if you have questions. I think Gary's the best resource in terms of technical and pricing.
Advanced notice - they are not cheap - so if that's a major concern you might want to look elsewhere. But - they have some of the best equipment and some good guys running it all and quite a few Waterford Speedbowl winning engines.
 
Have a good local shop balance it. Don't buy it balanced because these kit companies do a sloppy job on the balance. Get it done right locally.
 
Hughes Engines, great to work with, these guy's know Mopar! Check out there website, they designed a lot of the technology the other guys are using today.
 
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