340 block 360 crank build

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66Dartdriver

66Dartdriver

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This is the build I am thinking about for my Dart. I have a 72 340 that will be 30 over and a 72 360 crank I will get the mains machined down. Has anybody done it this way. Pros and cons? Trying to do a lower budget stroker build. I saw there is an older post on this build but wanted to see if anybody had any newer input.
 
I don't understand this philosophy. Wouldn't it be a heck of a lot easier /cheaper to just get a 360 block? Lots of guys would probably want your 340 block.
 
I'm not sure what the point of doing this is. A 0.030 over 340 with a 360 crank will get you 372 CID. A 0.030 over 360 ends up at 365 CID. Sounds like a lot of effort for only 7 cubic inch gain.
 
With the availability of cranks, and the cost for special grinding, I'd say either save by simplifying and go straight out 340 or 360, or just decide the extra couple hundred is worth it and go with a budget 416.
 
Maybe he just wants to use what he has.
 
I have a .030 over 340 with a turned down 360 crank. I really wanted a 3.79 stroke crank, but they were had to find and expensive when I built the motor.
I had mine internally balanced, and the balancing of the crank is quite expensive. I have about $500 in the cost of the crank and balancing.
A 4 inch stroke and a 360 block is cheaper and more cubes. But I wanted a 340 block in my car, and I wanted it to run stronger than a stock 340, while still looking and sounding stock.
 
Good stuff guys thanks. Yeah theres really no point to it other than using what I got and to be a little different, thats why I bought a 66 dart instead of a any year chevelle or nova. I will check with my shop to see about pricing for the machining and compare to purchasing a 4.00 crank. I was thinking it would be cheaper but maybe not.
 
OK, the reason, besides using what you have, is that back in the day, affordable strokers were not ever in kit form. Also, forged cranks were the only stroker cranks to be able to be purchased. There a lot of money over a cast, which were never available in a stroke other than stock.

So as of back in the day, this was the poor mans stroker to do and done seldom at that.

No one, and I really mean absolutely just about NO ONE thought the 360 was worth spit. Always seen as a low compression smog engine design for people moving. (Only people with brains, IMO, could see the 360's potential worth.)

So, the near no brainer took place. Use the bigger bore of the 340 and punch the crap out of it and cut down the 360 crank and re balance it with the new slugs. Often, they were a custom job. (READ BIG $$$$ for this!)

At .060 over, it is a 378. Close enuff to call it a 380 on the street. And let me tell you, Chevy children would often shy away from the whipping a MoPar motor head could put together.

I met one guy that had the brains and skills to machine the cranks rod journals down for a Chevy rod and a few more cubes. I wish I could remember that C.I.D. number. Anyway, it was nice to see a true to life 10 sec. Duster on the road back in the 70's! Let me tell you something guys, this is a do-able stroker for sure, pistons were (And maybe still) are on the shelf at KB for this.
 
OP, the new crank, IMO, is the way to go with this. Re-sell the old 360 crank for cost off setting. Unless you can get it ground and set up cheaper..........
 
I have a 360 short block for sale in the Classifieds, and the price is negotiable. :thumblef:
 
Use the chebbie 6.125 rod and you'll have a bajillion off the shelf pistons to choose from.
 
NICE! I had no idea they had that set up, sweet dude, sweet.
I did notice there were no piston rings or crank/rod bearings though. I'd inquire!
 
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