340 Block Cost

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CluelessMopar

CluelessMopar

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I have the opportunity to buy a 340 block off a buddy. It needs a sleeve in cylinder 8 however. The goal is to machine & build this engine stroked to a 416. Any idea what the cost of the block should be if it needs a sleeve?
 
CluelessMopar said:
I have the opportunity to buy a 340 block off a buddy. It needs a sleeve in cylinder 8 however. The goal is to machine & build this engine stroked to a 416. Any idea what the cost of the block should be if it needs a sleeve?
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Why don't you contact the machine shop to get a price for the sleeve install and also have the block checked for any other issues? If you're buying off of your buddy he should have a price for the block unless he wants more for it then he paid for it.
 
A56 said:
Why don't you contact the machine shop to get a price for the sleeve install and also have the block checked for any other issues? If you're buying off of your buddy he should have a price for the block unless he wants more for it then he paid for it.
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I'm not worried about the price to put in the sleeve, more so the cost of the block in that condition. I'm trying to get a rough idea of what the block is worth before he names his price.
 
CluelessMopar said:
That's roughly what I was thinking, but wasn't sure if the block retained more value since it is a 340. Thanks!
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If it’s a standard, standard, standard block, that does not need a sleave, a grand is not out of the question. With a needed sleave, and unknown condition of block, 250. The block needs to be cracked checked and sonic checked...
 
sleeve is about $80 installed here last time I checked. Then you got to hone em all for the smallest piston possible, another $160? Or just hone the sleeve for the common size. I think $500 is high for a bad block but I'm not buying it.
 
CluelessMopar said:
I have the opportunity to buy a 340 block off a buddy. It needs a sleeve in cylinder 8 however. The goal is to machine & build this engine stroked to a 416. Any idea what the cost of the block should be if it needs a sleeve?
Click to expand...

what are the current sizes of the other bores.
If standard $250+
If 30 over already: $150-$250 lower end would be a 71-73 model casting date.
 
autoxcuda said:
what are the current sizes of the other bores.
If standard $250+
If 30 over already: $150-$250 lower end would be a 71-73 model casting date.
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I'm pretty certain it's standard. So if the block has already been bored that reduces the price? Full stock blocks are more desirable for the stock guys then?
 
bored blocks are just starting down the road of no return unless you sleeve all 8. Nothing wrong with a 10-20 under 340. The sleeve is rough bored to under 4.04 anyway so youll have to bore that to meet the others and if its a stock block there may already be taper on the old cylinders. Look into a 360 block. Cheaper, More 4.00 pistons available but you'll lose a few cubes but no matter and you can get a roller option. Ohio crank makes a 4.25 stroke crank for a ~426 inch LA stroker.
 
pishta said:
bored blocks are just starting down the road of no return unless you sleeve all 8. Nothing wrong with a 10-20 under 340. The sleeve is rough bored to under 4.04 anyway so youll have to bore that to meet the others and if its a stock block there may already be taper on the old cylinders. Look into a 360 block. Cheaper, More 4.00 pistons available but you'll lose a few cubes but no matter and you can get a roller option. Ohio crank makes a 4.25 stroke crank for a ~426 inch LA stroker.
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Good to know! Thanks for the tip on Ohio Crankshafts. I have a 360 currently and was originally going to rebuild that but wanted to see if there was any real difference with going the 340 route.
 
CluelessMopar said:
Good to know! Thanks for the tip on Ohio Crankshafts. I have a 360 currently and was originally going to rebuild that but wanted to see if there was any real difference with going the 340 route.
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Just cost and bragging rights. :(
If you really want, you could always bore a 360 to 4.04, and de-stroke it. It's your name on the title, and that's the only thing that matters. Whatever you decide, remember this one thing;

Smiles per gallon.
 
340 blocks are 50yrs. Old plus...they are getting harder to find and I assume the prices will be higher now than ever....just try to find one for a deal these days....lmao..not happening ...340 is the best small block ever made....BAR NONE...uses same oil pan as 273, 318.....
 
Spend the coin get an X block or a 340 R block...4bolt......never look back
 
Buy the 340 cheap as you can get it. Sleeve it. If the rest of the bores are std., have the block rough bored to .030. Get new cam bearing put in it but leave freeze plugs out so the next owner can install them after they paint it whatever color they want. Then turn around and flip it. If you do it right, you'll still probably be able to make a hundred or so, save a 340 and help a fellow mopar guy.
 
Mtrhead said:
340 blocks are 50yrs. Old plus...they are getting harder to find and I assume the prices will be higher now than ever....just try to find one for a deal these days....lmao..not happening ...340 is the best small block ever made....BAR NONE...uses same oil pan as 273, 318.....
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Yeah but unless they've been through something catastrophic, they're getting more and more seasoned and that's a good thing.
 
$1000.00 for a standard to 020
$800. for 030 to 040
$400 for good @ 050 to 060
Take off $300.00 if needing a sleeve
I have ten of them in the shop and that
is what I get for one. I have sold several
this year.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Buy the 340 cheap as you can get it. Sleeve it. If the rest of the bores are std., have the block rough bored to .030. Get new cam bearing put in it but leave freeze plugs out so the next owner can install them after they paint it whatever color they want. Then turn around and flip it. If you do it right, you'll still probably be able to make a hundred or so, save a 340 and help a fellow mopar guy.
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This block would have a lot of sentimental value from my buddy. I couldn't just turn around and flip it. But I get what you're saying
 
CluelessMopar said:
This block would have a lot of sentimental value from my buddy. I couldn't just turn around and flip it. But I get what you're saying
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Well, then buy it for you if you want. You now have instructions on how to save it. Use the 340 for the stroker. Seriously, what are your chances of ever finding the car it came out of? That would be the only reason in my mind to not use it for a stroker. The 340 block is arguable thicker than a 360 so it's stronger. No reason in the world not to use it and then you have an engine that you'll like on a lot of levels.
 
CluelessMopar said:
I have the opportunity to buy a 340 block off a buddy. It needs a sleeve in cylinder 8 however. The goal is to machine & build this engine stroked to a 416. Any idea what the cost of the block should be if it needs a sleeve?
Click to expand...
About the same as a existing .020 or .030 over block would go for. Imo

Standard bore blocks get the premium, the rest fall into how many rebuilds are left.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Well, then buy it for you if you want. You now have instructions on how to save it. Use the 340 for the stroker. Seriously, what are your chances of ever finding the car it came out of? That would be the only reason in my mind to not use it for a stroker. The 340 block is arguable thicker than a 360 so it's stronger. No reason in the world not to use it and then you have an engine that you'll like on a lot of levels.
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Solid advice! Appreciate it man
 
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