340 Block Cost

-
RustyRatRod said:
Well, then buy it for you if you want. You now have instructions on how to save it. Use the 340 for the stroker. Seriously, what are your chances of ever finding the car it came out of? That would be the only reason in my mind to not use it for a stroker. The 340 block is arguable thicker than a 360 so it's stronger. No reason in the world not to use it and then you have an engine that you'll like on a lot of levels.
Click to expand...

where is the 340 thicker and stronger?

If so, at what power levels will that be significant?

My understanding was the 0.020” increased bore radius slightly un-shrouds the valves more for slightly increased head flow. I’d think this may be pretty minor on street engine with 2.02 valves.
 
autoxcuda said:
where is the 340 thicker and stronger?

If so, at what power levels will that be significant?

My understanding was the 0.020” increased bore radius slightly un-shrouds the valves more for slightly increased head flow. I’d think this may be pretty minor on street engine with 2.02 valves.
Click to expand...
Who said it was? I did not. I said it is "arguable" that it's stronger.
 
autoxcuda said:
where is the 340 thicker and stronger?

If so, at what power levels will that be significant?

My understanding was the 0.020” increased bore radius slightly un-shrouds the valves more for slightly increased head flow. I’d think this may be pretty minor on street engine with 2.02 valves.
Click to expand...
I've also sonic test measured some early 360s and a couple of 340s. They were pretty consistently thicker than the later blocks. Not by much, I admit, but they were. I don't think there's enough difference to warrant the "myth" that the early engines are thicker to the point that they actually are stronger enough to matter, but I do believe there is some merit to it. I think it's something that should be handled on an individual basis and not just a blanket statement made. I didn't mean to go that direction.
 
When buying a used block, you don’t really know what you have till its done at the machine shop. I say spend as little as possible. If it comes back from the machine shop with a reasonable bill, throw a little more money at the guy you bought it from for good will.
 
ch1ll said:
When buying a used block, you don’t really know what you have till its done at the machine shop. I say spend as little as possible. If it comes back from the machine shop with a reasonable bill, throw a little more money at the guy you bought it from for good will.
Click to expand...
That's not a bad idea. If I go the route for this block that may be what I have to do.
 
IMHO, I would save the 340 block and pass it on to a restoration type guy.
Then find a 360 block for much less and build your stoker based on that for less money in the long run.
By stroking it and changing the pistons, heads, etc., it's not a ''magical'' 340 anymore for that matter.
And your right foot won't care either at that point as well.....
 
Dartnut said:
IMHO, I would save the 340 block and pass it on to a restoration type guy.
Then find a 360 block for much less and build your stoker based on that for less money in the long run.
By stroking it and changing the pistons, heads, etc., it's not a ''magical'' 340 anymore for that matter.
And your right foot won't care either at that point as well.....
Click to expand...

In post #15 he said he already owns a 360. 340 Block Cost

I wonder if it’s tore down to a bare block to see if it’s condition and if it’s got an overbore ??

The OP has put himself in a great position by networking with local people and giving himself a choice or possible backup plan.
 
Last edited:
First year(s?) of the 360 was supposed to have 340 jackets and that would make the cylinder thickness +.040 over a 340 of the same bore. 340 had beefier main caps. 360 would have a larger main bearing surface. Plusses on each side but the 360 doesn't have the 340 tax added on top. Your stroking it so your already negated the shorter stroke of the 340 and your using the same heads. Bore a 360 +.040 and you got your 2.02 valve unshrouded just like a 340. Give a 360 the same compression as the 340 and put em on the line. Results?
 
340 and Mopar. Leave no doubt those 2 go together like Mac&Cheese. However be careful about spending too much on the block. The true value of a 340 Block is when it's attached to the car it came out of. Opinions vary on that but it's my experience.

Unless you have to own a 340 I would seriously look at a 360 block. Cheaper and abundant. Making it 416 inches tells me you want to step up the power and that can be a risk in case of a component failure and damaging the block.

The other option is if you go the route of buying this block is you and the seller agree that before you put the coin down have a machine shop check it out for you (on your dime.) Otherwise it could be a boat anchor. As time moves on the story lines of car parts and such tend to take on a life of their own....

JW
 
My latest block is a 340 that needs one sleeve.

The plus is it was already a race block..bored, decked, oil gallery tubed...the $100.00 price tag was good
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top