340 Engine Shake

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I know you didn't want to have to pull the engine, but in a way you'll be better off. Now you know you'll have a great cam and lifters. And...you have the "pleasure" of getting your hands dirty again!!
 
66fyssh said:
I know you didn't want to have to pull the engine, but in a way you'll be better off. Now you know you'll have a great cam and lifters. And...you have the "pleasure" of getting your hands dirty again!!
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True that. I'm also going to take the opportunity to have the rotating assembly balanced just to be sure.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
True that. I'm also going to take the opportunity to have the rotating assembly balanced just to be sure.
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good move , once you are doing it , do it right the first time or 2nd whatever . Hope this one works well and you burn lots of tires
 
inertia said:
Google Comp Cam lobe, and general quality issues.
I won't use anything Comp anymore .
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is it lifters or cam that the problem ? Damn putting the engine in my car next week or so . and it is a Comp cam . So far broken in on the dyno and several pulls all is good . Next week I'll know for sure after a few 100 miles of driving will not be pleased if the cam goes bad . Don't think this is limited to Comp cams , industry wide problem
 
Nat said:
is it lifters or cam that the problem ? Damn putting the engine in my car next week or so . and it is a Comp cam . So far broken in on the dyno and several pulls all is good . Next week I'll know for sure after a few 100 miles of driving will not be pleased if the cam goes bad . Don't think this is limited to Comp cams , industry wide problem
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I agree. Was just talking to another guy that's in the industry and he believes all the cam manufactures use the same material for their cores, they are just ground differently. I think its a quality of material issue. So I am going to try not to dwell on it, Ive always used comp. My dad just put in a roller for his 383 and so far so good. I am little nervous on the lifters, but then again, what can you do?

You can also google FiTech, Edelbrock Proflo, Holley Sniper and get a ton of hits on bad parts/systems. So I think that is just the way it is now with so much access to information.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I agree. Was just talking to another guy that's in the industry and he believes all the cam manufactures use the same material for their cores, they are just ground differently. I think its a quality of material issue. So I am going to try not to dwell on it, Ive always used comp. My dad just put in a roller for his 383 and so far so good. I am little nervous on the lifters, but then again, what can you do?

You can also google FiTech, Edelbrock Proflo, Holley Sniper and get a ton of hits on bad parts/systems. So I think that is just the way it is now with so much access to information.
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What roller lifter did you decide on?
 
512Stroker said:
What roller lifter did you decide on?
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The hughes ones are in stock and are cheaper than the comp. :) I just got off the phone with them and I sent in my cam sheet to see what they recommend for a cam. I couldn't answer some of the questions, like weight, cranking cylinder pressure but hopefully they can come up with something close.
 
Lotsa folks use Comp with success, they just don't work for me, and I don't like what I've found when dismantling engines built by myself or by others, including " professional" builders. I discovered really scary wear, so close to becoming terminal.
Lotta these engines came off the street, and don't seem to last, where other makers show little to no wear, under same or similar conditions .

Quality seems to be a fickle thing .

When I accidentally drop a slice of buttered bread, it most often lands butter side down, so I don't gamble .

EDIT ! !
 
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Whichever lifters you choose, disassemble them and clean them thoroughly before installing them in your engine. A lot of lifter problems recently are from trash left over from manufacturing left in the lifter body.
 
The problem is lifter quality. If you do not want a failure, have a set of 25+ yr old lifters re-faced. Have heard that some cam cores are made in India, Turkey, which doesn't fill me with enthusiasm.
 
Ironracer said:
None, at this point. Read yesterday that some small rollers don't need machine work to the block, then Seen the cam you recommended for the OP.... and then my Lil Gears Upstairs started spinning...
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Run a flat tappet. Problem solved. Rollers are over rated.
 
Motor is out. Took me 5 hours by myself, taking my time, of course.

Tomorrow, it goes on the stand and the disassembly starts. I'll keep this thread updated.

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plumkrazee70 said:
I am moving over to this forum from the 4 speed forum as I have determined that my issue is not transmission related.

I have a 70 Dart 340/4 speed. The motor was out last winter for the 4 speed install and while.it was out I installed Edelbrock aluminum heads and a lunati -10200703 cam.

I broke in the cam fine, but it has an intermittent shake at idle. It shakes so bad that shifter moves all over, but it will smooth out above 1100+ rpm. I first noticed it when I had it in jack stands to verify the clutch engagement and the driveline was rattling like crazy (intermittent).

I removed the driveline installed a slip yoke and the shake is still there.

340 .040 over
Edelbrock aluminum heads
Lunati cam (number above)
Air gap
Fitech EFI

I've verified timing, played with the idle tune, double checked firing order, swapped plug wires and nothing changes.

I'm at a road block as I don't know where to go from here. I need some help.
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If the engine was a automatic when the engine was rebuilt and I assume that you had it balanced, it was balanced for the automatic, when balancing is done both the harmonic balancer and flywheel are required
 
Dan the man said:
If the engine was a automatic when the engine was rebuilt and I assume that you had it balanced, it was balanced for the automatic, when balancing is done both the harmonic balancer and flywheel are required
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Everything was Neutral balanced. See above posts. It turned out to be a cam/lifter issue.
 
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