340 Exhaust manifold problem

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ajarofclay

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Problem #2

I bought a nice set of exhaust manifolds from a member here. Came as described, flapper worked pretty smoothly; Great after a little lubrication. Then while cleaning and wire brushing...THIS happened. How F*CKED am I?? :(

Exhaust manifold spring.jpg
 
They make rebuild kids for that setup. looks like mancini sells individual components while most sell only the complete kit. here's one over on mega parts

View attachment 1716437134
Ohhh Snap (pun intended). This product made me painfully aware of a couple things. #1 is, I thought that piece snapped off that coiled spring but it appears that's not the case. It looks to be part of a separate clip of some kind which means I have another piece or two to search for and #2 I have no idea where or how it goes on. Are you running a stock exhaust system? And IF so, can you snap me a couple of pics? That said, every time I look back at your project pics, I think that it's going to be the nicest old dart I've ever seen. LOVE the color.

Screenshot 2025-08-01 at 9.50.43 PM.png
 
I am no longer running manifolds. I swapped to headers. My 340 manifolds are boxed up. Mine are ‘72’s.

If I can remember, I’ll get them out this weekend when I’m back to the shop and snap some photos
 
That would be much appreciated. What kind of headers are you running. I'm switching back. SOO tired of the headers being in the way of accessing everything. I'm going to have to lift the motor partially out just the remove the headers also. Either that or use a sawsall which i don't want to do.
 
That would be much appreciated. What kind of headers are you running. I'm switching back. SOO tired of the headers being in the way of accessing everything. I'm going to have to lift the motor partially out just the remove the headers also. Either that or use a sawsall which i don't want to do.
I bought some headers from TTI
 
That would be much appreciated. What kind of headers are you running. I'm switching back. SOO tired of the headers being in the way of accessing everything. I'm going to have to lift the motor partially out just the remove the headers also. Either that or use a sawsall which i don't want to do.

What "everything" are you trying to access ?

Everything is readily accessible with modern headers, spark plugs are easily removed on ALL cylinders, plug wires don't burn ! !
They even have great ground clearance .
What everything ?
Gotta list ?
 
What "everything" are you trying to access ?

Everything is readily accessible with modern headers, spark plugs are easily removed on ALL cylinders, plug wires don't burn ! !
They even have great ground clearance .
What everything ?
Gotta list ?
NOTE: I have an old set of Hooker headers that I put on 50 years ago. Working around the steering column connection is a real pain. The freeze plug I just replaced was a nightmare (had to use a rubber one for the time being). And even the starter is a B*tch, especially without a hoist to work under. Plugs and wires have never been an issue other than needing a 90 degree boot on #7.
 
So, in 50 yrs you had to replace a frost plug, and had to work around the steering a bit, replace a starter.
Geesh. It sounded like you were removing the headers every oil change, - annually.
A few times in 50 yrs, you had a hassle .
 
So, in 50 yrs you had to replace a frost plug, and had to work around the steering a bit, replace a starter.
Geesh. It sounded like you were removing the headers every oil change, - annually.
A few times in 50 yrs, you had a hassle .
Car hasn't been on the road for well over 40 years and I'm also intent on getting it back to as close to stock as possible. Friend, If you're having a rough day, you should probably take it out on whoever put the thumbtacks in your granola this morning. Peace.
 
Car hasn't been on the road for well over 40 years and I'm also intent on getting it back to as close to stock as possible. Friend, If you're having a rough day, you should probably take it out on whoever put the thumbtacks in your granola this morning. Peace.

Apologies, I work on these cars daily, I'm 74, and just get a bit tired of the "in the way" comments when there is very little to get in the way of.
Trust me. With just manifolds, the exhaust pipe (my luck) would been in the way of the frost plug. Lol

Good luck with your project, yeah. it was the thumbtacks.

Cheers

PS - piece that broke off is more cosmetic than function.
I'd use the piece remaining, which is basically just a "stop". jmo
 
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If you currently have long-tubes, then ;
when going to the manifolds,
I think, in addition to the Powerloss over the top, you'll also lose a bit of bottom-end torque. This is Not just an opinion, it's real..
and, the problem with this bottom-end loss, is that
340s were never known for having a strong bottom-end in the first place. I've had 4 stock low-mileage ones since 1970, and so, I feel qualified to comment on that.
I'm done with 340s.

Here's my experience with a torquey 367/4-speed;
I'll be talking about a camswap not about header swap, just so we're on the same page, going from a 223*050, to a 230@050..
The bottom-end Torque loss was like installing a next bigger camshaft from the same supplier, while not bringing the cylinder pressure along. My cylinder pressure, with the camswap, went from 193, down to 182.
That cam-swap cost me a switch from a 2.66 low gear, to a 3.09; which is 16%. If your doing it with reargears, that 16% is like going from 3.23s to 3.73s . And I better add, that this torque loss is really only noticeable at take off, and below about 2500.; where my engine spends a lot of time. After that, you may not notice the Powerloss until after 4500/5000, and not until the engine has to fight wind resistance, like in third gear.
If you have an automatic, depending on your stall, it may not be a big deal for a dual-purpose streeter.
I realize that this is appears to be comparing apples to oranges, but the loss is real all the same, on account of logs kill the overlap cycle, and the 340 factory cam has only 44* to start with. I'm gunna guess that losing all of them at one time, has got to be 15/20 horsepower over the peak, and at least 25/30 ftlbs at 2400.
I was so disappointed, that I spent all of late summer looking for it.
That winter, I took the engine out, and, to get the pressure back, I pumped the Scr up to 11.3, and advanced the cam 3 degrees. This got the pressure back up, and together with the 3.09 low gear, next spring, I was not disappointed. As a matter of fact, I later put the cam back in straight-up, to get the top-end back.
Overlap
is only a big deal, for weekend warriors like me. In a DD, logs will be just fine. But if you have a modest street cam, you will lose most of the idle-lope, which was mostly due to the headers working the overlap.

BTW;
Here's how to live with headers;
>The Dakota mini-starter is well worth installing, and mine has been going for over 20 years.
>Pull the headers and change ALL your core plugs at the same time, then install fresh antifreeze and keep it freshened as per the instructions, and you'll never have to change them again.
>If you have a crushed header pipe, just cut the flatted part out and weld a new piece in, then install 1.03 T-bars and HD adjustable front shocks.
>While the headers are out for the core-plug install, check and/or repair the merges, as may be required.
>Install new THICK quality header gaskets with quality fasteners, and in my case, on my TTIs, it was a one-time deal, well-over 20 years ago. I had those headers off twice a year for 6 years, as I swapped my HotRod engine out in fall, to install a 318 winter-engine, and back again in spring. Same gaskets, all but one time.
So
if you really want log manifolds, Ok I get it, yur willing to make sacrifices; no big deal; people divorce eachother all the time, lol. I read somewhere that 3 out of 4 marriages these days, end in divorce, which is to me, really sad. I've been married to the same woman since 1976.
BTW-2
If I was running those logs and
if I had an AirGap, or any intake without the heat-crossover, or alloy heads, or running with the Crossover under the factory-intake closed off, or an open-element air-cleaner, with a Holley carb;
I wouldn't bother with the Heat-Riser valve, as it serves no useful function, other than to make that distinctive 340 idle-sound...... if that's your thing. It's job, in the factory application, was, principally, to shut the automatic-choke off early, and to keep the carb warm, to help prevent icing.
 
PS - piece that broke off is more cosmetic than function.
I'd use what is remaining, which is basically just a "stop". jmo
Exactly correct; and it is because of the stop, that the 340 has that distinctive ting-a-ting-ting, idle-rattle; which, as a 17 year-old kid in 1970, I loved my nearly new 340 Swinger for.
 
Probably not what a lot of people would do, but I take all that heat riser junk out, along with the little bushings the shaft turns on. Then I take the manifold to a machine shop and ask them to make me 2 interference fit plugs the same size as the bushings to press back in the holes on either side of the flange. Doug's or TTI headers keeps me from having to make the trip to the machine shop most of the time....lol.
 

Apologies, I work on these cars daily, I'm 74, and just get a bit tired of the "in the way" comments when there is very little to get in the way of.
Trust me. With just manifolds, the exhaust pipe (my luck) would been in the way of the frost plug. Lol

Good luck with your project, yeah. it was the thumbtacks.

Cheers

PS - piece that broke off is more cosmetic than function.
I'd use the piece remaining, which is basically just a "stop". jmo
Thank you, sir, I appreciate the follow up. I like the opinion regarding that piece, too. Might be wishful thinking but if anyone else has 2 cents to throw in, I'd be curious to hear.
 
Probably not what a lot of people would do, but I take all that heat riser junk out, along with the little bushings the shaft turns on. Then I take the manifold to a machine shop and ask them to make me 2 interference fit plugs the same size as the bushings to press back in the holes on either side of the flange. Doug's or TTI headers keeps me from having to make the trip to the machine shop most of the time....lol.
I've thought about that myself. I'm not sure how the heat riser should actually perform and figure, what would be the difference if I did? my headers work without it.
 
If you don't drive your car in cold weather, you'll probably never notice a difference. The flapper just helps the choke work better at cold startup, but beyond that it's just a cork in the pipe. Last one I did was for the 340 HP manifolds in my 71 Challenger. The Edelbrock carb has an electric choke, which works great. I couldn't bring myself to just do a hack job on early 340 HP manifolds by welding it up. The plugs the dude at a machine shop made a few little plugs that I pressed in, and they could be pressed back out if a nit picker ends up with the car one of these days....lol.
 
If you currently have long-tubes, then ;
when going to the manifolds,
I think, in addition to the Powerloss over the top, you'll also lose a bit of bottom-end torque. This is Not just an opinion, it's real..
and, the problem with this bottom-end loss, is that
340s were never known for having a strong bottom-end in the first place. I've had 4 stock low-mileage ones since 1970, and so, I feel qualified to comment on that.
I'm done with 340s.

Here's my experience with a torquey 367/4-speed;
I'll be talking about a camswap not about header swap, just so we're on the same page, going from a 223*050, to a 230@050..
The bottom-end Torque loss was like installing a next bigger camshaft from the same supplier, while not bringing the cylinder pressure along. My cylinder pressure, with the camswap, went from 193, down to 182.
That cam-swap cost me a switch from a 2.66 low gear, to a 3.09; which is 16%. If your doing it with reargears, that 16% is like going from 3.23s to 3.73s . And I better add, that this torque loss is really only noticeable at take off, and below about 2500.; where my engine spends a lot of time. After that, you may not notice the Powerloss until after 4500/5000, and not until the engine has to fight wind resistance, like in third gear.
If you have an automatic, depending on your stall, it may not be a big deal for a dual-purpose streeter.
I realize that this is appears to be comparing apples to oranges, but the loss is real all the same, on account of logs kill the overlap cycle, and the 340 factory cam has only 44* to start with. I'm gunna guess that losing all of them at one time, has got to be 15/20 horsepower over the peak, and at least 25/30 ftlbs at 2400.
I was so disappointed, that I spent all of late summer looking for it.
That winter, I took the engine out, and, to get the pressure back, I pumped the Scr up to 11.3, and advanced the cam 3 degrees. This got the pressure back up, and together with the 3.09 low gear, next spring, I was not disappointed. As a matter of fact, I later put the cam back in straight-up, to get the top-end back.
Overlap
is only a big deal, for weekend warriors like me. In a DD, logs will be just fine. But if you have a modest street cam, you will lose most of the idle-lope, which was mostly due to the headers working the overlap.

BTW;
Here's how to live with headers;
>The Dakota mini-starter is well worth installing, and mine has been going for over 20 years.
>Pull the headers and change ALL your core plugs at the same time, then install fresh antifreeze and keep it freshened as per the instructions, and you'll never have to change them again.
>If you have a crushed header pipe, just cut the flatted part out and weld a new piece in, then install 1.03 T-bars and HD adjustable front shocks.
>While the headers are out for the core-plug install, check and/or repair the merges, as may be required.
>Install new THICK quality header gaskets with quality fasteners, and in my case, on my TTIs, it was a one-time deal, well-over 20 years ago. I had those headers off twice a year for 6 years, as I swapped my HotRod engine out in fall, to install a 318 winter-engine, and back again in spring. Same gaskets, all but one time.
So
if you really want log manifolds, Ok I get it, yur willing to make sacrifices; no big deal; people divorce eachother all the time, lol. I read somewhere that 3 out of 4 marriages these days, end in divorce, which is to me, really sad. I've been married to the same woman since 1976.
BTW-2
If I was running those logs and
if I had an AirGap, or any intake without the heat-crossover, or alloy heads, or running with the Crossover under the factory-intake closed off, or an open-element air-cleaner, with a Holley carb;
I wouldn't bother with the Heat-Riser valve, as it serves no useful function, other than to make that distinctive 340 idle-sound...... if that's your thing. It's job, in the factory application, was, principally, to shut the automatic-choke off early, and to keep the carb warm, to help prevent icing.
WOW! Fantastic information, my friend. I've copied this and saved it to my "Demon" file.

A little background... Though my car is a 1972, It now has 10.5 to 1 pistons and has older 2.02 heads with 30 thousandths shaved off of them, so probably 11 to 1? The came was also changed years ago with a mild upgrade... I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of 484 lift, 268 duration. Does that sound right? Anyway, it was pretty much the same dimensions as a 1968 4 spd cam which was supposed to have been the biggest FACTORY cam. It's and automatic with a shift kit and has an aftermarket convertor which I believe is a 3500 stall (HUGE mistake). I was under the impression that the factory convertor was 2800. I also, for top end, had the plenum cut out of the factory intake which is still that way but I have another factory manifold on had if I want to change it. Keep in mind that these changes were done almost 50 years ago, before we had this information highway we have today. I could spin my N50 Goodyears til the cows came home but when I wound it up and shifted it into 3rd gear the car would completely fall on it's face. I have a theory now that the convertor was the issue. I do have a stock one that will go back in sometime soon. The gear which was originally a 3.55 posi was change to a 3.91. These days, I'd probably prefer maybe 3.23 but I do have a 28" time on the rear now which my calculations bring it pretty much back to 3.55. I confess, I made all these changes in my early 20's and didn't really have a total understanding of what I was doing. Bigger mistake was pretty much doing it all at once so when I had to iron issues out, I had no idea where to start.

You have me thinking about that living with headers stuff. I do have a couple of good dents, primarily from the install that I guess I could try to patch up (I wonder if a good Dent puller could do a decent job and then just seal the hole?) On my old Hookers, the center link has to pass through one of the tubes. Does your set get around that? Like I mentioned before in a reply, these DO NOT come out without lifting the motor so it's not something I can routinely do.

Thanks again for the opinions and especially all the Knowledgeable information. Great Stuff!

Blessings...
 
If you don't drive your car in cold weather, you'll probably never notice a difference. The flapper just helps the choke work better at cold startup, but beyond that it's just a cork in the pipe. Last one I did was for the 340 HP manifolds in my 71 Challenger. The Edelbrock carb has an electric choke, which works great. I couldn't bring myself to just do a hack job on early 340 HP manifolds by welding it up. The plugs the dude at a machine shop made a few little plugs that I pressed in, and they could be pressed back out if a nit picker ends up with the car one of these days....lol.
Thank you, JD! I appreciate your opinion and information. And you are correct, there's no way this car will be driven in the cold weather so that's an option. I bought this car when it was 2 years old and about 24000 miles. It now has somewhere around 60000 on it.
 
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WOW! Fantastic information, my friend. I've copied this and saved it to my "Demon" file.

A little background... Though my car is a 1972, It now has 10.5 to 1 pistons and has older 2.02 heads with 30 thousandths shaved off of them, so probably 11 to 1? The came was also changed years ago with a mild upgrade... I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of 484 lift, 268 duration. Does that sound right? Anyway, it was pretty much the same dimensions as a 1968 4 spd cam which was supposed to have been the biggest FACTORY cam. It's and automatic with a shift kit and has an aftermarket convertor which I believe is a 3500 stall (HUGE mistake). I was under the impression that the factory convertor was 2800. I also, for top end, had the plenum cut out of the factory intake which is still that way but I have another factory manifold on had if I want to change it. Keep in mind that these changes were done almost 50 years ago, before we had this information highway we have today. I could spin my N50 Goodyears til the cows came home but when I wound it up and shifted it into 3rd gear the car would completely fall on it's face. I have a theory now that the convertor was the issue. I do have a stock one that will go back in sometime soon. The gear which was originally a 3.55 posi was change to a 3.91. These days, I'd probably prefer maybe 3.23 but I do have a 28" time on the rear now which my calculations bring it pretty much back to 3.55. I confess, I made all these changes in my early 20's and didn't really have a total understanding of what I was doing. Bigger mistake was pretty much doing it all at once so when I had to iron issues out, I had no idea where to start.

You have me thinking about that living with headers stuff. I do have a couple of good dents, primarily from the install that I guess I could try to patch up (I wonder if a good Dent puller could do a decent job and then just seal the hole?) On my old Hookers, the center link has to pass through one of the tubes. Does your set get around that? Like I mentioned before in a reply, these DO NOT come out without lifting the motor so it's not something I can routinely do.

Thanks again for the opinions and especially all the Knowledgeable information. Great Stuff!

Blessings...
Brother
Yur on the right path and notta chance would I force a 268 cam to breath thru logs. My headers are TTI under-chassis, so not under the steering.
IMO, the real problem with the under-steering headers is/are chassis related. The factory T-bars are just too soft, and the shocks are junk too. and, IMO, guys just run their street cars too low. Now that I have more money, or did before I retired, I wouldn't be afraid of that type of Header, cuz I discovered 1.03 bars are just fine, a higher ride height is just fine, and adjustable shocks are just fine too! lol.
I am very familiar with 340s laying over in Third gear with 3.55s and tall tires.
Top of third was always where my stockers got smacked by the guy in the other lane. and you know why?
lemme tell you.
that 340 cam was an emissions cam. it had great specs but that whole engine was a mess. Nobody that I know, would build a clone today, to do anything but be a sort of Tribute car.
The First problem with a factory 340, was that it was never a 10.5 engine.
To be a 10.5 engine, the TOTAL combustion chamber size would have to have been 73.3cc's. Well criminy the heads alone were nearly that big.
Doing the math on any one of my 4, I can't get past about 9.4Scr.
The second point is that stinking 114* LSA cam, drops the DCR down to in the basement at 7.4 at an elevation of 900ft. That is stinking low.
The third point is that, with an LSA of 114* the Overlap is down to 44* off the advertised. Same cam on a 107, would have been a half-way decent 58*.. Which would have worked VERY well with headers. As it was with the logs, that cam fell on it's face when the going got tough.
The fourth point is the slow-azz intensity of that cam. It was designed to last about half a million miles, it seems, lol.
The fifth point is valve springs that barely made 5500 rpm on a good day.
In factory-stock form, that engine was a mess, and it showed, the car couldn't break 100 in the quarter, and trap-times were mid 14s.
That engine, IDK how, got a reputation, which IMO, was only because Ford and Chevy couldn't seem to bring anything better, at a similar displacement.
When I realized that I shouldda bought a 69 Chevelle with an aluminum headed 427, I went straight to the junkyard and got me a 4.10. and I got me a sweet new clutch, and big stinking tires, and some stinking valve-springs.. That solved my Third-gear lay-over, problem, while simultaneously eliminating any hiway travel. But at least I could now keep up with all my buddies with bigblocks, I was so dumb to have bought a 340, and think I could hang with the big boys. lol.
That 340, already distressed for a while, was less than two years old when I blew it up . The warranty engine that they gave me was a bigger dog. I idled it around for another two years then sold it to pay backrent.
Those were my first two 340s.
Next, a buddy scored a junkyard 340 which had sat with water in it , and because I was the guy with a torquewrench, I got to put the 340 heads/topend/and cam onto/into his Hi-compression 318/69 Satellite, and for this great privilege, I got the left-over parts. I was ~21 years old.
So, I had this old beater 65 V100 wagon that burned nearly as much oil as gas.
And I had a friend with a recently pulled, good-running 273/automatic combo, and
I had this reasonably fresh Satellite topend.
You know it; I bolted that all together (minus the 273 core) and stuffed it into the little wagon, 2bbl and all. Well, the only exhaust worthy of this monster would be fenderwell headers, and 2" straight pipes. I was in business; push-button auto, and the little yank-it lever, for Park.
now, here's the deal, with the early 318 heads, and the early-closing intake valve event of the 318 cam, this thing had Dcr up the wazoo. and it ran like a raped ape . To this day I remember that very high compression big-bore 318; and to this day, I still have the core, cuz a couple of years later, I got married and gave the car to my up and coming baby-brother, minus the engine/trans, but with a good 225, not the old oil-burner.

What did I learn?
Compression makes heat, which makes torque, which makes power. and
On the street, 6500rpm is not what you want.
Here I had had,
a 4500/5000rpm engine, that was crazy big fun, and with 3.23s still made great fuel-economy on the hiway. and it came out of a pile of junkyard and leftover parts, and those glorious fenderwell headers. I was forever sold on headers. that was about 1976 and that was 340 number 3.
By 1980, I was again driving a 340, this one with a lotta miles on it, and back to a 4-speed again. and it had headers. Daymn if that engine didn't surprise me. But, it was all bark/no bite, even with headers. I drove it until she threw a rod bearing, then parked it, and pulled the engine. Then I had kids, and there she sits out behind the garage.
The handwriting was on the wall; I was done with 340s. What I didn't yet know, was that I was actually done with that stinking 340 cam. But I wouldn't find that out until the last kid was graduating.
I started a new project in ~1997, but that will have to be another post. This one would be a super-hi-pressure 367LA, with a 292/292/108 cam.
 
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Back in day I took flapper out, put nuts bolts in holes and high temp RTV. Then blocked off heat cross overs in intake manifold too. Even today I don't have a choke. Its not a daily driver. Even in cold weather run it a minute or two and go drive. A lot less stuff to break. Intake air runs cooler more power and less heat under hood.
 
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