340 has no balls

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I could be totally wrong, but

I think he was saying to UP the idle, as you retard the timing...

As you retard, the idle will drop

As you advance, the idle will increase


As far as I know, you should be setting your timing at a steady Idle... as you change your timing, keep the idle the same...


I tried my best to help,

Good Luck!

Shane
 
Shane said:
I could be totally wrong, but

I think he was saying to UP the idle, as you retard the timing...

As you retard, the idle will drop

As you advance, the idle will increase


As far as I know, you should be setting your timing at a steady Idle... as you change your timing, keep the idle the same...


I tried my best to help,

Good Luck!

Shane
Click to expand...



That is right. Sorry could of been more clear about that. Try keeping it at about 750-850 RPM.
 
I know a few friends around that are heavy into drag racing and know engines. Funny how no one puts their number in the darn phone book any more .SOB on that .My friend with a blower on top of a 340 Duster will come and have a look tomorrow .Im sure it will be cake for him . PS I have kept ALL the suggestions in mind . carb, intake,distributor , tipped air lid:happy4: and advice..
 
Before you check your timing you need to make sure the outer ring on the harmonic damper hasn't slipped.
The only way to do that is pull the plugs (makes it a lot easier to rotate the engine), put your finger over the #1 plug hole and hand crank the engine until you feel compression.
Check your timing mark.
Then, make sure the piston is on TDC. You can use a flashlight to look down the plug hole.
Some people have inserted a small diameter wooden dowel in the plug hole and rotated the engine until the dowel stops moving.
That will get you close to TDC.
Check your timing mark again. If it's within a couple of degrees to Zero on the timing cover, you're OK.
Put the plugs back in and then check the timing with your light.
 
Ill check on that at some point tomorrow . How come anything fun seems to have a vine of sour grapes attached to it?.Once I get this all straightened out , you guys have one smokey burnout photo commin.
 
17remfan said:
Ill check on that at some point tomorrow . How come anything fun seems to have a vine of sour grapes attached to it?.Once I get this all straightened out , you guys have one smokey burnout photo commin.
Click to expand...


Checking the timing and setting the carburetor is easy.
Now, if you were trying to get the board to diagnose a weird noise, that is another story altogether.
 
So you found you have about 20° initial advance... there's your ping. It sounds like you just need a good tuner to help. Also, have a friend jump in with the engine off and floor the gas pedal. Check to see if the throttle cable actually pulls the carb totally open. Judging at the quality of the work (meaning the way too much advance) I would question the basics now. Also fix that kickdown linkage!!
 
I was not shore what air cleaner he had was thinking he had the dual snorkle.if it is the one that really dosent work the one that should have been a pot the one that was proven on a dyno that takes 10 hp from the motor ya that would look pretty dam funny im still laughing:toothy4::wav::salute::salute::happy4::happy4::happy4::walk:eek:k ill let you alone now.
 
At any rate ,Im replacing the stock harmonic balancer with an SFI aproved unit.I will compare the two and try to determine if the stock damper ring has slipped.
 
To verify you stock damper timing mark, use a piston stop screwed into the #1 spark plug hole.

Rotate the crank clockwise until you hit the stop, mark the damper at the TDC mark on the timing pointer.

Rotate the crank counter clockwise until you hit the stop again, and mark the damper at TDC again. If the TDC groove on the original damper is exactly between the 2 marks you made, then the original damper is good.


It takes 5 minutes and could save you a few hundred bucks.
 
17remfan

I am in the process of pulling my 318 out of a 70 Dart and replacing it with a rebuilt 69 340 bored .030 over, x heads, LD4B intake, Eddy 750, MP electronic ignition etc. I too will be running a 8 3/4 SG w/ 3.55's.

I heard the same thing about the LD4B and that it is more appropriate for a 318. If you change intakes please keep me posted. And if anyone else has some suggestions for me, feel free.
 
The port mismatch in going from a smaller port to a larger port is less than ideal, but doesn't cause nearly as much turbulent weirdness as going from larger to smaller. It's a similar instance of the Bernoulli principle as occurs in the venturis in a carburetor (albeit not as smooth). It may arguably be somewhat beneficial in some cases due to keeping reversion pulses from setting up in the runners.

I'm betting on the slipped inertia ring on the damper. I had one that ended up being off by 16 degrees and it drove me crazier. I hope it turns out to something something that easy to fix.
 
I really don't understand what is going on with this thread. It sounds like you are new to working on cars (and this is fine, we all were once). I don't think we have a member close that can lend a hand.

At this point I would suggest finding a local mom and pop mechanic... Most towns have one. Im talking about the kind of place that has been around for years. The shop may be dirty and old but the guy can fix anything.

Take your car there, have it tuned, and have the kick down set up. (Ask if you can watch and pick up some pointers)

I really think 5 pages of "TUNE YOUR CAR" is silly.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
I really don't understand what is going on with this thread. It sounds like you are new to working on cars (and this is fine, we all were once). I don't think we have a member close that can lend a hand.

At this point I would suggest finding a local mom and pop mechanic... Most towns have one. Im talking about the kind of place that has been around for years. The shop may be dirty and old but the guy can fix anything.

Take your car there, have it tuned, and have the kick down set up. (Ask if you can watch and pick up some pointers)

I really think 5 pages of "TUNE YOUR CAR" is silly.
Click to expand...

Most Old Guy's can Fix anything! But This is actually a good peice of information!
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
I really don't understand what is going on with this thread. It sounds like you are new to working on cars (and this is fine, we all were once). I don't think we have a member close that can lend a hand.

At this point I would suggest finding a local mom and pop mechanic... Most towns have one. Im talking about the kind of place that has been around for years. The shop may be dirty and old but the guy can fix anything.

Take your car there, have it tuned, and have the kick down set up. (Ask if you can watch and pick up some pointers)

I really think 5 pages of "TUNE YOUR CAR" is silly.
Click to expand...


Come over here and help me out.... I need some help bad! LOL!
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=59704
 
i have a 318 duster w/major blow by but none outta the exhaust. i changed the gas tank,leaky coil
with new one,adjusted timing its a stock 318
 
Here is the latest/ We removed the stock Harmonic balancer to find that the outer ring had indeed slipped and moved from the correct position . Any attempt to time the engine by anyone would have been a total crap shoot.I have a new one going in along with some fresh motor mounts.I should have the engine running better soon . Im sorry if this post was too long .
 
17remfan said:
Here is the latest/ We removed the stock Harmonic balancer to find that the outer ring had indeed slipped and moved from the correct position . Any attempt to time the engine by anyone would have been a total crap shoot.I have a new one going in along with some fresh motor mounts.I should have the engine running better soon . Im sorry if this post was too long .
Click to expand...

Heh, the one on my 318 was off by 5 degrees. I just ground a new slot for TDC!:thumblef:
 
truknutz.jpg
 
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