340 oiling system

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VSTwister

VSTwister

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Oil pan, pump, windage tray, etc... What do you use, and recommend?

I'm gathering parts to build a street 340, 400 HP goal, for my 71 Scamp.

I already have a factory windage tray, and a new HV Melling pump. I've read some difference in opinion on using these. So I'm left wondering about my application, but right now I plan to use them and think I should be fine.

I have a used pick up too...should be okay to clean and reuse, yes?

Should I go with a factory oil pan, or will I need more capacity for the HV pump?

What about stamped numbers in factory pans? Is there a list somewhere on the net for all the applications by stamp #? As near as I can tell, the correct year and model for mine would be the #294.

I don't really want to spend a lot of money on an oil pan, and also the possibility the aftermarket ones not fitting properly with the k-frame, steering linkage, exhaust/headers, etc... So I'm leaning towards a factory stock pan, unless I'm told I should use something else for better performance.

Thanks!
 
Milodon deep pan will not fit with Hooker Super Comp headers. This pan may work with TTI from what I've read. I run a Moroso deep pan on my dart gts. Work good but hangs low. Only problem I really had with stock pan was starving at high RPM. Above 7000. This was with a Melling HV pump.
I never reuse an old pick up. Just safer to buy a new one.
 
You've read the threads on the pumps. So I'll just give you what I'd do - assuming you are haveing the crank machined and the rods resized as part of the process.
Have the machine shop deburr the valley area of the block and drill a few extra oil return holes up there. Have them enlarge the oil feeds from the camshaft galley to the main bearing saddles to 9/32". Use the stock pan, use the factory windage tray - but pry open the slots another 3/16" or so. Set the oil clearances up on the .0015-.0025 area and run the 3/4 groove main bearing set. Run a std oil pump with the MP high pressure relief spring package and a new oil pickup. This will let you disassemble the oil pump to add the spring pckage and inspect/clean it. You should not try to clean an old oil pickup. You may lossen up debris that was safely stuck in it and it will get sucked into the new pump. Save the $30 somewhere else.
That will give you a solid oil system that will take anything you will throw at it.
 
You can run all stock stuff regarding the oiling sytem at your power level and never look back.
 
I'm not looking to run 7000 RPMs, so from what I'm reading here so far I'll probably be ok to run stock stuff. Moper's advice looks to be good for extra protection, however my short block parts are already machined and parts (including bearings) purchased. They just need checked over and if everything is a-ok, then assembled. But perhaps I will talk to a shop about these mods...

As for the used pick up, I agree common sense says get a new one, but I've seen people selling used ones and wondered if I was missing something.
 
The milodon road race oil pan might be something to consider. It holds 6 qts and sits above the k frame.
 
You could try something like this...the PO of my Duster extended the bottom of a stock pan by cutting off the bottom, and welding a section from a donor pan. Kind of old school, but.....



 
You could use the stock pan and plumb in an Accusump. flip a switch and you have instant insurance against oil starvation.
..just a thought -pauly
 
What Moper and Rusty said...

Take the HV pump back, and put that money into a new oil pickup..

Do not use the old pick-up... unless you're an avid gambler..
 
Yeah - if the block has been assembled (or at least the cam bearings and oil plugs installed) then you can skip the "mods". I thought this was still in the early stages but like the responses above - you are fine with what you have assuming the clearances are within factory specs... And they should be measured - not just plastigaged.
 
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