PRH
Well-Known Member
found 2 cracks on one head and 3 on the other
Two seats for 5 cracks?
found 2 cracks on one head and 3 on the other
I always respect your opinion, but would you run them without at least pressure testing them?Run-em
Two seats for 5 cracks?
i was playing devil's advocate. because if the heads look like that, what are the chances the guides are minty fresh?If the guides are good why change them? That makes way more work.
At minimum he needs two seats IIRC. Since I don’t like cheese dicking out because when you do it comes back and bites me in the ***, I’d do all the seats under the intakes.
The OP doesn’t need to do it but I would which is why I said it that way.
His shop is already sketchy on it.
there's a definitive ranking around here somewhere, it's on a laminated sheet. maybe it fell behind the tool box? but yeah, that's the gist of it."Old ***" I guess is somehow older and crappier than just "old". lol
Yes, I told the machinist that he would need to do this, I am not anxious to see the bill...You do realize some more porting will be required to blend the new seats into the bowls……right?
Well, that’s if you don’t wanna lose flow.

You know what, knowing what I now know that would have been the best road to take, but I wanted a stock looking engine compartment, where the only deviation from stock would be a set of headers. I wanted to just port the stock cast iron intake and use the stock Thermoquad with the choke and everything else working. Stock valve covers, air filter etc... Just a good flowing set of cast iron heads, a nice hydraulic roller somewhere in the 230 degree at .050, a good set of roller rockers, and the only thing that you could see from the outside that was not stock was a set of TTi or Doug's headers. Hopefully a combo that with 3.55 gears and the 4 speed could run in the high 12's... If I were to do this again I would not even think of doing cast iron heads and go straight to a set of trick flows, but the aluminum heads just damage the illusion of the stock looking engine compartment, and look too modern for the look I was going for.Buy some of them newfangled aluminium cylinder heads.![]()
You know what, knowing what I now know that would have been the best road to take, but I wanted a stock looking engine compartment, where the only deviation from stock would be a set of headers. I wanted to just port the stock cast iron intake and use the stock Thermoquad with the choke and everything else working. Stock valve covers, air filter etc... Just a good flowing set of cast iron heads, a nice hydraulic roller somewhere in the 230 degree at .050, a good set of roller rockers, and the only thing that you could see from the outside that was not stock was a set of TTi or Doug's headers. Hopefully a combo that with 3.55 gears and the 4 speed could run in the high 12's... If I were to do this again I would not even think of doing cast iron heads and go straight to a set of trick flows, but the aluminum heads just damage the illusion of the stock looking engine compartment, and look too modern for the look I was going for.
Would be nice.It's a bummer companies keep coming out with small block mopar heads but no one has one with stock looking ends like the 440 source heads.
And some of those new heads perform very close to their competitors. So why not a unique feature.?
If I were to do this again I would not even think of doing cast iron heads and go straight to a set of trick flows
Disassemble first, pressure test, find out if coolant is leaking from it. Do standard tapered pin crack repair on crack through seat and spark plug hole. Pressure test repair. Install intake seats, repair spark plug holes with solid insert. NOT Heli-Coil in this situation. Do valve job, install heads and go.I have a pair of 340X heads that I planned on using on my 72 Duster 340. They are fully ported and polished, they have the valve spring seats worked over for vitton seals and dual valve springs, they have bronze guides, and they basically have a ton of work on them. I took them to a local machine shop to get them checked and resurfaced and they found 2 cracks on one head and 3 on the other. The cracks are in exactly the same place, between the spark plug hole and the intake valve seat. I am not sure what to do and neither does my machinist. I attached some photos in the hope that someone can tell me what to do. The machinist suggested opening up the spark plug holes and putting inserts in them and new steel valve seats, but he is not sure of where the water ports are on these heads or how much of an issue this is on these heads. He said that certain cracks on certain heads are quite common and do not affect anything, and other cracks on the same head might mean a direct trip to the trash can. I am sure that there have to be some old school cast iron cylinder head gurus here that will now what to do and if these heads can be saved or if they are destined for the scrap yard. I live in East Texas, and someone may know of a place in the area that maybe specializes in this type of work, or on Mopars.
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Paint them, at a glance they look stock.but the aluminum heads just damage the illusion of the stock looking engine compartment
Do you think that they need a solid insert in the spark plug holes? Machinist recommended that but I was not sure if that was necessary.Disassemble first, pressure test, find out if coolant is leaking from it. Do standard tapered pin crack repair on crack through seat and spark plug hole. Pressure test repair. Install intake seats, repair spark plug holes with solid insert. NOT Heli-Coil in this situation. Do valve job, install heads and go.
I am an ASE master engine machinist, Gas and Diesel Engines. Started in 1989 (yes I have a grey beard and hair). The solid insert will seal better, and not allow crack to spread.Do you think that they need a solid insert in the spark plug holes? Machinist recommended that but I was not sure if that was necessary.
Thanks, then I will go ahead and tell the machinist to do this.I am an ASE master engine machinist, Gas and Diesel Engines. Started in 1989 (yes I have a grey beard and hair). The solid insert will seal better, and not allow crack to spread.