360 build questions.

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How will you notice a difference unless you first run the heads unported and then after porting?
 
RustyRatRod said:
How will you notice a difference unless you first run the heads unported and then after porting?
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Lol, good question. But I gotta say they look better/cleaner than they did. I'm just attempting to clean them up basically, as opposed to "porting". I'm not to the point I want to screw them up, lol.
 
There is always a lot of discussion as to which pump to use.

Stock? High Volume? High Pressure?

I know I don't want high pressure, so that's out.

Should I go high volume?
 
I would add that I am modifying my pan to hold an additional quart, with a baffle. Along with the pickup tube.

Winter project.
 
I think the oil pump issue depends on your bearing clearances and how fast you intend to spin the engine (others will know better). Having the deeper pan is a good choice and needed for that, also don't forget you NEED a hardened oil pump driveshaft to prevent breakage with the higher drag from an HV pump.

My 360 has pretty big clearances and I need to run heavier-weight oil (50 weight "hot" rating) to keep the hot oil pressure at idle above 15 psi since I used a standard oil pump. Some day I may add an HV pump but then I will need a deeper pan as I'm running a stock one with a welded-in baffle.
 
Bad Sport said:
Yeah, maybe the occasional 6500. :D
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In that case I'd say wait until you know what the bearing clearances will be. Unless they're up around .003" a standard pump should be fine.

Side-note, one trick to improve oiling to the bearings is grinding a relief on the crank journals where the oiling holes are, helps the oil flow "into" the bearings better. Of course do this before the crank is polished.
 
Bad Sport said:
There is always a lot of discussion as to which pump to use.

Stock? High Volume? High Pressure?

I know I don't want high pressure, so that's out.

Should I go high volume?
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is this a trick question????
 
USE the standard pump , it's good enough , mine hits 7,000 often at the track , no troubles yet
 
Bad Sport said:
Lol, I didn't think so.
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Fluid Dynamics 101,...
Force= Area X Pressure.

Unless You are going to 'spin off' into F1 15K-21K RPM ranges (lmfao)
A simple 'neutral' stock oil pump will be more than adequate .

Stock Tri Metal bearings & stock oil pump are perfect for ANY 6K RPM 80 %
duty cycle build. :D:D
 
mech1nxh said:
Fluid Dynamics 101,...
Force= Area X Pressure.

Unless You are going to 'spin off' into F1 15K-21K RPM ranges (lmfao)
A simple 'neutral' stock oil pump will be more than adequate .

Stock Tri Metal bearings & stock oil pump are perfect for ANY 6K RPM 80 %
duty cycle build. :D:D
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Stock pump good, as long as no warp speed. Got it!!!:thumblef:
 
Bad Sport said:
Stock pump good, as long as no warp speed. Got it!!!:thumblef:
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Edit,
Notes on 'Core Shift' Mr Bad Sport---
Or more succinctly described as 'casting shift'---
Alignment between the horizontal centerline of the camshaft & horizontal
centerline of the crankshaft = no broken oil pump drive parts...

More importantly, ... 'improper alignment' = wind up = flow loss during 'warp speed'
throttle events. :D
 
OK, y'all, I'm getting ready to re-size my rods and get ARP rod bolts put in.

Is it absolutely imperative that the rods be shot peened??

Reason I ask, is I can get them re-sized locally right near my house.

If I have to have them shot, I will have to go to a shop further away.
 
I've run stock small block Ford rods to 6500 over and over, raced stock Opel 1.9L rods (redlined at 7.7k to 8k) many k miles, and raced Mitsu 2.6L rods (14-15 psi max boost) many thousands of miles each with not ever shot-peening a one. That said, it is a method to add some insurance. It won't 'fix' a crack or stress riser flaw. Just IMO, magging or other crack detection is first and rod bolts, with good ends next. Then smoothing the beams. Shot peening is pretty much last in my list... FWIW. (Think I have done one set a long time ago.) I suspect you are not going to be stressing the rods very much in your use.

Again, FWIW, we'll use a HV pump but we have some bigger-than-normal-for-the-street clearances. I like to run 'em large for racing but not as much as we have for this 340. The machinist did a poor job and undersized the rod journals by about .0005", and the SCAT rods have a lot of side clearance (.026"-.028"). So with some oil mods like described on FABO to flow more to the crank, we'll try to make use of the extra 20% flow HV pump capacity. A bit more oil flow through the large clearances oughta help cool the parts a bit more.

IMO, I think the differences between the 2 are overstated to some degree.....and that says that the use of the HV is not a huge deal and only adds some margin, adds maybe 25% load increase on the shaft (my educated guess; have not calculated it out), and sticking with the standard pump does not lose you all that much. The HV ought to give more sustained pressure to a lower RPM more than anything else; that is the main benefit I can see.
 
I have an MSD 6A box I will be using, what can I use with it for a rev limiter???
 
I have the 6A, and it doesn't have a provision for a rev limiter. Either I'm blind, or just didn't see on on that page.

I know MSD make a separate box, but it says it's incompatible with the 6A.
 
A tach and your eye! And your ear. I have never had a rev limiter. Lots of rallies, where you don't have any thing like a track to set consistent shift locations. Never had any issue being very aware of where the RPM's were. (Only on the '09 Challenger could I use one.... that thing still has good torque up at the 5700 RPM redline and has fooled me.)

Is this a worry?
 
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