360 build thread

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I ran into that a few months back with the same pickup and tube. I was using factory bolts though not studs. I tried welding a stud onto one of the bolts which was a no go, so I did what I should have from the start and called up kevko. He had the correct mopar bolt with a stud on the end for around $17. Might give them a call and they should have something for you cheap.
 
snailpower said:
I ran into that a few months back with the same pickup and tube. I was using factory bolts though not studs. I tried welding a stud onto one of the bolts which was a no go, so I did what I should have from the start and called up kevko. He had the correct mopar bolt with a stud on the end for around $17. Might give them a call and they should have something for you cheap.
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I think I remember that thread, at this point I'm not trying to not use the main studs since the caps were lined bored with them and the bearing clearances were taken with the current setup, not sure how much it would change but I'm running tighter tolerances so I don't want to mess with it too much.
 
tanis4457 said:
I think I remember that thread, at this point I'm not trying to not use the main studs since the caps were lined bored with them and the bearing clearances were taken with the current setup, not sure how much it would change but I'm running tighter tolerances so I don't want to mess with it too much.
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Yeah I hated running into this problem at the 11th hour as well. Glad it worked out for me, I can definitely relate to your predicament.
 
Heres with the nut installed, i dont have the top of the threads sticking out through the nut but then again im wondering how much load is there. I secured it with red loctite still debating whether i take the washer out from under the arp nut for a little more clearance. The threads on the stud are 1/2-20
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I wouldn’t touch it. There’s no real load there except vibration and the loctite took care of that. You have enough thread engagement.
 
tanis4457 said:
Heres with the nut installed, i dont have the top of the threads sticking out through the nut but then again im wondering how much load is there. I secured it with red loctite still debating whether i take the washer out from under the arp nut for a little more clearance. The threads on the stud are 1/2-20
View attachment 1715153074 View attachment 1715153075
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FWIW...in MOST cases if you have 1 times the diameter of the stud into the nut you have full engagement. That's not always true but most times it is.
 
furrystump said:
I wouldn’t touch it. There’s no real load there except vibration and the loctite took care of that. You have enough thread engagement.
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I think I'm going to leave it, I did some research and though I wish I had more thread engagement on the nut I based my decision upon the fact that there's little load at that point and the specs on the red loctite are a torque break of 250lb once fully cured and the temp range it's good for is -65 to 300 F.
 
Got the oil pan pan on and tightened.
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Then while tightening the first head on, one of the threads in the block decided to give way while doing the final torque to 100ft/lbs!! Whats the normal fix, heli coil?
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tanis4457 said:
Got the oil pan pan on and tightened.
View attachment 1715154324
Then while tightening the first head on, one of the threads in the block decided to give way while doing the final torque to 100ft/lbs!! Whats the normal fix, heli coil?
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Yep. Tape everything and if you have to, snug a head on to help you keep the drill perpendicular to the deck surface.

Also, what are you using for head bolts? It's hard to see in the picture, but it looks like your bolt may be a bit on the short side.
 
yellow rose said:
Yep. Tape everything and if you have to, snug a head on to help you keep the drill perpendicular to the deck surface.

Also, what are you using for head bolts? It's hard to see in the picture, but it looks like your bolt may be a bit on the short side.
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Using the hex arp head bolt kit pn 144-3602, how long of a heli-coil should i get 1"?
 
tanis4457 said:
Using the hex arp head bolt kit pn 144-3602, how long of a heli-coil should i get 1"?
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1 inch will be fine.
Back in the early 1990's some studs were coming with the threads too long. When installed they would bottom in the hole, leaving threads above the deck. Seen several of them snap at that thread. Spent a bunch of time shortening the threads and then spot facing the head because the O.A. length was too short.

I would double check how much actual thread engagement you have with those bolts. Looks like it may be pulling on the top threads. As for how long the engagement should be, you'll have to look at a stock bolt and make sure from under the head to the start of the threads is correct.
 
yellow rose said:
1 inch will be fine.
Back in the early 1990's some studs were coming with the threads too long. When installed they would bottom in the hole, leaving threads above the deck. Seen several of them snap at that thread. Spent a bunch of time shortening the threads and then spot facing the head because the O.A. length was too short.

I would double check how much actual thread engagement you have with those bolts. Looks like it may be pulling on the top threads. As for how long the engagement should be, you'll have to look at a stock bolt and make sure from under the head to the start of the threads is correct.
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Looks like the arp bolts are actually shorter when you take into account the washer that comes with them.
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Is the oil pan on for good? I run the same pan and it is a nice pan, but I have one complaint about it. The drain is isntalled outside the sump baffle area. So when changing the oil about 3/4 of a quart won’t drain or drains VERY SLOWLY! I just welded in a drain plug at the rear corner.
 
furrystump said:
Is the oil pan on for good? I run the same pan and it is a nice pan, but I have one complaint about it. The drain is isntalled outside the sump baffle area. So when changing the oil about 3/4 of a quart won’t drain or drains VERY SLOWLY! I just welded in a drain plug at the rear corner.
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It's on permanently for now, that sucks that the drain plug could be located better. Guess I'll have to deal with it. My one complaint with the pan was that the all the bolt holes were off and I had to grind most of them bigger so I could get the pan located. Don't know if there jig was off when they built my particular pan but all my gaskets laid in perfectly so I don't think it's the original block bolt layout that's the problem.
 
Its not a game changer and they actually may have changed the design of the baffle with the doors so it would drain a bit quicker and left the plug where it was. Just something I noticed with my pan.
 
tanis4457 said:
It's on permanently for now, that sucks that the drain plug could be located better. Guess I'll have to deal with it. My one complaint with the pan was that the all the bolt holes were off and I had to grind most of them bigger so I could get the pan located. Don't know if there jig was off when they built my particular pan but all my gaskets laid in perfectly so I don't think it's the original block bolt layout that's the problem.
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You'd be surprised how many pans need the oil holes ovaled or oversized. Pretty common.

In 1995 I bought a Stefs box pan with with full length kick out. It only used three bolts down the passenger side, and you had to pull a plug out of the pan and use an extension to get to the bolts. It was a pain in the pancakes to get it to fit the first time.
 
Got it repaired, used the head for guide during the drilling (good tip yellow rose) Probably should've for the tap but everything ended up working out. In hindsight i shouldve drilled farther down prior to tapping but i followed the directions and it almost screwed me. Didnt realize how mich the helicoil stretches out during installation. Had to file a ridge out of the top of the bolt on the deck surface, it happened when the block stripped.
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Final assembly with 100ftlbs, whew glad i dodged that bullet.
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Got the other head on and have started checking for pushrod length as well as my geometry (using the b3 kit). Heres my procedure please tell me if im doing it wrong.

Rotated til intake #1 lifter at peak this confirms #1 exhaust lifter is on base.

Sharpied valve for exhaust rocker and adjusted rocker adjuster til around 1.5 threads was showing, installed adjustable pushrod tool.

Install rocker shaft with rockers and bolt down. Cam card calls for .006 lash hot so i adjusted the pushrod til around .008 lash cold.

Rotated 2 revolutions and verified sweep. Sweep width was about .0042.
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Dont have a dial caliper long enough going to have to borrow one, should i rinse and repeat this procedure for the rest?
 
Cold lash should be .002 tighter cold. I've never seen lash close up with heat.

The geometry look dang nice. That's why that B3 kit is worth it's weight in gold. That's what correct geometry should look like.

Edit: yes, you are doing it correct.

Can't wait to see this done and running
 
yellow rose said:
Cold lash should be .002 tighter cold. I've never seen lash close up with heat.

The geometry look dang nice. That's why that B3 kit is worth it's weight in gold. That's what correct geometry should look like.

Edit: yes, you are doing it correct.

Can't wait to see this done and running
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Haha, your right I got it mixed up on cold/hot vs expansion/contraction. Thanks
 
Got my pushrods measured, ordered, installed and the valve lash set. Got about .017 clearance per rocker pair. Went with a thicker walled pushrod due to supply issues with the recommended size. Smith bros is a great company to deal with.
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Just something else to look for, make sure the pushrod is down in the center of the lifter. It can sit on an edge of the plunger cup. You lash it and sometime later pop! It slips into the correct spot, but now your lash is HUGE with solid and big with hyd. Could be my tired old eyes, but cylinder 2 exhaust seems like the pushrod is not in the lifter center and the rocker adjuster is sticking out on top more than the others. Again old and blind!
 
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