360 build with 596 heads

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texas360

texas360

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im currently trying to build a 360 on a budget. it has been bored .40. stock crank and rods. currently has sealed power dish piston(ch 1.576). 596 heads that needs one set of guides and a valve job, i want a dependable streetable 350-400 hp.

first off i found some twr pistons with a compression height of 1.637, much better than what i currently have,but i keep getting told i need to have everything balanced, its pricey to balance. my questions will it be ok to run it without a balance with the new pistons or just run the crappy dish pistons?

second the heads. 596 smog heads. open chamber 72cc. how will i fair with these pistons? what if i go with a .040 or .021 head gasket? will that help compression?

cam it came with a Erson TQ20H cam, it getting replaced with a comp like 260 or 280.

4 barrel intake probabaly dual plane and a 850 TQ carb.

im open to suggestions,crisitcism and help
 
The 400 hp recipe seems to be 750, air gap, headers, 10:1 CR, 280 ish cam and 220 cfm heads.

I don't think it would cost too much to balance unless your going for internal balancing.
 
I keep getting told I have to internal balance,but I think for a street car it will be fine. It won't see 5000-6000 rpm very often. As far as the 10.1 pistons can't afford them
There over $300.
 
Compression is a monr thing vs. head flow.
If you get to a 9.0-1 ratio with a milled head and thin gasket, call it good and do not worry.
Bowl port the head with 2.02's and open up the pinch rod area in the port.

273 called a good basic recipe save for the ratio. It is a bit high for iron heads and pump gas. Fine for aluminum heads which you lack.
 
Whoever told you that you HAVE to INTERANL balance the 360 should be removed from the project, taken pout back for a tar & feathering after being sexualy assalted in a bad way by big ugly people.
If he bitches, burn him afterwards.

My 11-1, .030 - 360 is extrenal balanced and see's low 12's in a heavy car, w/a 4spd and 4.10's.
 
If thats the case I'm gonna go ahead and pull the trigger on the trw pistons. Part number H405CP-KIT . Have a decent cimpression height. It's 1
637. The 10.1 trw are 1.667 ch and as I said my current ones are 1.576
 
I totally believe I would better off with the 10.1 pistons h116cp40,bit look at the price difference. That don't leave much $$$ for gasket sets,bearrings,intake,carb,getting the 596 heads redone. I'm trying to stay under a grand. The pistons and head work alone will kill that budget. I had a bad work injury in late 2014,fell 20'. Shouldn't even be alive,bit somehow I am so I'm strapped. I got the motor complete with tranny for $150
 
Don't the kb107 have to hone block a little more and certain ring gap?
 
top ring gap needs to be set according to there instructions...if you can read and multiply the bore size x a constant.....there should be no problem...
 
texas360 said:
Don't the kb107 have to hone block a little more and certain ring gap?
Click to expand...
Not any more or less than other HyperU slugs.

texas360 said:
I totally believe I would better off with the 10.1 pistons h116cp40,bit look at the price difference. That don't leave much $$$ for gasket sets,bearrings,intake,carb,getting the 596 heads redone. I'm trying to stay under a grand. The pistons and head work alone will kill that budget. I had a bad work injury in late 2014,fell 20'. Shouldn't even be alive,bit somehow I am so I'm strapped. I got the motor complete with tranny for $150
Click to expand...
Your tryingto do this on the cheap and I can understand that in a big way. HOWVER, sometimes, the cheapest way still costs money. If you don't have enough, then save up andstop complaining about cost because it only goes up, you'll be a lot happier with paying for quality work long after the cost is forgotten because it was quality work.
Making cheaper parts work isn't allways the smartest way to go about a build. If you don't mind paying extra for milling the block and heads to meet the same or similar compression ratio as the other slugs cost, then pay the machinist. Let us know how much you saved after machine work.
 
You'll need better heads (EQ or Eddy's), minimum 230@.050 cam, 9.5+ compression and a good intake/carb/headers to reach 350+ horsepower. You could always freshen what you have and put a 150 shot of nitrous on it to get to your goals.
 
If the bottom end has already been rebuilt and you're trying to keep a budget, wouldn't leaving the bottom end alone and having the heads cut .030-.040" and use a thin head gasket do the trick? I think that is less expensive than buying pistons/rings/bearings and paying a machine shop the labor to press the new pistons on the rods.
Just my $0.02
 
Spend the money on your heads, that is where the power is at. Mill em,open up the bowls,5 angle valve job.
 
Block has been cleaned, honed and machined already. Crank still needs to be turned. I want to find some J heads but have also found some nice aero heads for a good price. As far as money saved. I got $134 right now. I'm on workman's como.so I have like extra $50 here and there. This motor probably gonna take me 2 yrs to build at the rate I'm going. Which sucks,but.oh well. It needs a full rebuild so new bearrings and gaskets are a must and I'm not looking to run nitros. I want to keep.it naturally aspirated. Cheapest 10.1 piston I found is the trw h116cp. It's not a kb107,but is trw version. Kb107 .40 are $400. No way I can swing that much at once. I know it takes money to build a kotor,but I don't want to have to dump $2-3k at a 360. I want to keep my limit at $1500.
 
Then your going to have to compromise the build somewhere. I still do not think you have enough $$$ for a realistic build. Rethink your costs and build goals.
 
Ok guys I was just blessed with a set of magnum heads so I hear they out flow the 596 even in Stock form. So now in debating on staying with the cast aluminum pistons or going with the H405CP-KIT. I just can't do the 10.1. Too much miney,but I feel the magnum heads will help a great deal.
 
Put them on a flow bench side by side and report back?
 
Magnums seem to flow in between 1.88 and 2.02 valve heads but seem to make or have more potential stock.
Look at roller 318/360 ain't much going on in the short block compared to Magnums but a good bump in hp.The 5.9 Magnum is the only engine I've seen live up to the 2 hp per cfm rule of thumb. I do believe the LA has more ported potential though.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Whoever told you that you HAVE to INTERANL balance the 360 should be removed from the project, taken pout back for a tar & feathering after being sexualy assalted in a bad way by big ugly people.
If he bitches, burn him afterwards.

My 11-1, .030 - 360 is extrenal balanced and see's low 12's in a heavy car, w/a 4spd and 4.10's.
Click to expand...



Be careful how you read that. New pistons means IT HAS TO BE BALANCED. It does not have to be internal, although IMO external if you're paying for it already is just a dumb *** way to do it. It can be externally balanced, but the difference in cost is the Mallory metal it needs. If someone was to tell you for $150 more you could have more power, more economy, longer life, easier parts interchangeability, and smoother running, would it be worth it?
 
I believe the 405s and the 116s are both duplicate weight. I know the 405s are real close mine were within 2 grams but there was some carbon on the old pistons. Just a thought. I didn't balance mine but I'm a cheap ***. Engine runs smooth. Mine is closer to a stock build not close to 400 hp.
 
That's part of the problem Moper, price of Mallory and amount used. And the word of the person doing it. As well as there quality of work but we assume it is done right. It has now been 23 years on my last rebuilt externally balanced engine that runs without issue.

I'm not arguing the balance issue of which we agree is better, just that statement that it has to be done that way. Does it really HAVE to be done that way? Of course not.
 
Millions of cars run just fine in an externally balanced configuration.

If I'm buzzing a 360 more than 6800 or so, then yeah I go the internally balanced route. Otherwise, I stick with the factory external balance and apply the savings to something else.
 
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