360 clicikng valve train

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Any suggestions on repairs in the Daytona area. I don't have the mechanical ability. I don't want to pay 2K for labor camshaft timing chain and lifters.
I may have to swallow the pill again appreciate all the FABO help special shout out to 70Dart340
I may have missed it but how was it determined that the camshaft was bad?
 
Just remember to breathe. So here’s a picture of a head the blue lines point to exhaust valves the green point to intake. The black line separate each cylinder. Check the intake valve when the engine is rotated so the corresponding cylinder's exhaust valve is just beginning to open, and then check the exhaust valve when that same cylinder's intake valve is starting to close. Slide a feeler gauge between the valve tip and the rocker. Write down the biggest feeler gauge you can comfortably (not FORCING) get in. If it is a solid cam, that number is real. If it is a hydraulic cam the lifter could bleed down and the lash would appear artificially big.

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There is no oil coming up to the valley to valve train at all. I don't have any mechanical ability but I did get the drivers side valve cover off no oil was was coming up the valve train. I don't know what I'm looking at for a issue. 70Dart looked at pics and thought it was was a.wiped cam with all the ticking and no oil But hasn't been confirmed until the intake was taken off that's where I'm at.
By the way me.oil pressure is 40lbs to 60lbs of any of this helps. This Scamp is really nice and i have dumped a.ton of cash into it thanks to my classic restoration shops and no ability to really wrench.
 
My advice, FWIW, step back and don't let emotions drive future regret. We all get frustrated with our cars from time to time. You don't need much mechanical ability to remove the valve covers and unbolt the rocker shafts, take pics and post them up, so members can give you accurate advice. A 3/8 drive SAE socket set and wrench set can be picked up at Harbor Freight for next to nothing. I haven't read through all three pages to know if the car was like this when you bought it or just started. As mentioned earlier, a wiped cam isn't going to present the symptoms you're seeing. Your pics of the cylinder head seem to have some valves actuating. Besides cam lobes have nothing to do how your rocker arms receive oil. YouTube has a video for everything, this is a video on correct orientation of the rocker shafts on an LA motor: how to remove and replace mopar small block rocker arms - Search Videos It doesn't matter that these are non-adjustable and yours are adjustable. Still the same concept. Bottom line, if you give up and sell the car, you'll only get pennies on the dollar for it with your current problem. You'll get the same price for the car if you have the rockers arms removed as the will with a bunch of valve train noise. Take it apart, take pics and post them up. Don't give up and quit! I'm almost positive you're going to find the shafts are not on correct. One last thing, when you put it back together make sure and put some white lube assembly grease (auto part store people should know what this is) on the pushrod & rocker arm interface and where the rocker arm and valve stem meet so there is some initial lubrication at start up.
 

Your cam may be fine. You have oil pressure so it's getting lubricated. Take a deep breath and listen to the advice given. It maybe something you can fix right at the top of the engine. If your rocker shaft is installed wrong you will get zero oil pressure to the rockers.
Also, aways use oil with zinc for older flat tappet engines. Todays oil doesn't have enough zinc.
 
My advice is to sell the car and buy a Prius. If you’re not mechanically inclined at this point, that’s ok. But to own an old vehicle and keep it operational comes with the understanding that some level of mechanical knowledge and ability is REQUIRED. If this is enough to make you want to get out of the hobby you’ve got a rude awakening coming and you should get out now. If you’re willing to learn and expand your knowledge and ability, that’s AWESOME, you’ll have to also learn how to not get frustrated, search, ask questions and show that old garbage who’s boss and not let it beat you.
 
The above post isn’t meant to be harsh, it’s just laying out the realities of the old car hobby. Especially ones that have been hot rodded a bit.

I wouldn’t have recommended the Prius though.
But if you don’t want to work on your old rides, then something more along the lines of a modern muscle Challenger might be a better option.
 
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Any suggestions on repairs in the Daytona area. I don't have the mechanical ability. I don't want to pay 2K for labor camshaft timing chain and lifters.
I may have to swallow the pill again appreciate all the FABO help special shout out to 70Dart340
My recommendation is don't be an idiot. (No offense lemmie splain) You're ASSUMING a LOT. If you take it to someone and tell them your cam is flat and lifters are shot, that's the "repair" you'll likely get. You need to DIAGNOSE it and you can do that yourself with our help. It may not be as bad as you think.
 
My advice is to sell the car and buy a Prius. If you’re not mechanically inclined at this point, that’s ok. But to own an old vehicle and keep it operational comes with the understanding that some level of mechanical knowledge and ability is REQUIRED. If this is enough to make you want to get out of the hobby you’ve got a rude awakening coming and you should get out now. If you’re willing to learn and expand your knowledge and ability, that’s AWESOME, you’ll have to also learn how to not get frustrated, search, ask questions and show that old garbage who’s boss and not let it beat you.
I couldn't have said this better and it needs to be a stickied post for all to read.
 
My Crane ones that came with my Gold Race never had notches. Yiu had to know how to put them on. Not all shafts have notches.
Yes, I've already said that. Can we argue somewhere damn else so we don't discourage or confuse this guy any more than he already is? Your dick is bigger than mine. There. You happy?
 
Pull the rocker shafts off and crank it over, look and see if any oil is coming through the rocker stands
 
I’m sure this will stir up some shite……. But……. If there is truly “NO” oil coming out of the rocker area with the engine running, I’m very skeptical it’s because the shafts are on wrong.

35+ years ago I was working on a 360 that had been built by a local shop.
The “issue” I was troubleshooting was……. It was a dog.
In the course of things I was checking was lifter preload.
The engine had 273 rockers, and I noticed the notches on both shafts were wrong.
One was on end-for-end wrong, the other was upside down.
The engine had been running like that for a few thousand miles.
No noise, no burned up parts.
I did correct that problem, which of course had nothing to do with it being a dog.

The rationale for checking to see if any oil is coming through up to the other side is……… each side gets its oil from a different source.
If one side has oil and the other doesn’t, it helps to point where to look.
 
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I’m sure this will stir up some shite……. But……. If there is truly “NO” oil coming out of the rocker area with the engine running, I’m very skeptical it’s because the shafts are on wrong.

35+ years ago I was working on a 360 that had been built by a local shop.
The “issue” I was troubleshooting was……. It was a dog.
In the course of things I was checking was lifter preload.
The engine had 273 rockers, and I noticed the notches on both shafts were wrong.
One was on end-for-end wrong, the other was upside down.
The engine had been running like that for a few thousand miles.
No noise, no burned up parts.
I did correct that problem, which of course had nothing to do it being a dog.

The rationale for checking to see if any oil is coming through up to the other side is……… each side gets its oil from a different source.
If one side has oil and the other doesn’t, it helps to point where to look.
I tend to agree, BUT, it's obvious one side is on wrong, so that needs to be corrected and the other side checked and corrected if needed. I also agree with removing the rocker shafts and spinning the engine.....although he'll need to remove the pluge to do that.
 
Any notches at the end of the shaft? if so, the notch should face inward, notch at rear on right bank, front on left
 
I'm working with via phone call and text. We're making progress. I asked him for pictures of the other end of the shaft. We'll go from there. I can't get to him until the end of the week. I'm telling him to relax, and not do anything rash.
 
Any notches at the end of the shaft? if so, the notch should face inward, notch at rear on right bank, front on left
No the notches face down and to the rear on the passenger's side. Down and to the front on the driver's side. He may not have notches. If not, the small oiling holes face down.
 
I'm working with via phone call and text. We're making progress. I asked him for pictures of the other end of the shaft. We'll go from there. I can't get to him until the end of the week. I'm telling him to relax, and not do anything rash.
Yeah, it's not like it's going anywhere. Neither are we.
 
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