360 Con rod bearing quick question

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amazon69

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Hi all,

Hopefully you experienced engine builders can help me here. I am putting some bearings and rings etc into my 360. When I went to replace the con rod bearings I see that the Clevite 77 bearings that I have are slightly different to those I'm taking out. They fit perfectly otherwise, but the new bearings don't have the little cut out which I suppose allows/helps
bearing02.jpg
oil circulation. I am sure I ordered the correct bearings, but I am unsure now whether to continue fitment or find some bearings with the cut out. I have attached a picture showing the original bearing vs the new, showing the missing slot. This is the first time I've been this deep into an engine so apologies if this is a stupid newbie question. I'd appreciate any help, thanks.
 
Some say that the slot is not necessary. The slot on the original bearing is to sling oil onto the opposed cylinder bore. Hope you find your answer. I did a Cleveland motor recently and could not find bearings with the slot in them.
 
amazon69 said:
Hi all,

Hopefully you experienced engine builders can help me here. I am putting some bearings and rings etc into my 360. When I went to replace the con rod bearings I see that the Clevite 77 bearings that I have are slightly different to those I'm taking out. They fit perfectly otherwise, but the new bearings don't have the little cut out which I suppose allows/helpsView attachment 1715105029 oil circulation. I am sure I ordered the correct bearings, but I am unsure now whether to continue fitment or find some bearings with the cut out. I have attached a picture showing the original bearing vs the new, showing the missing slot. This is the first time I've been this deep into an engine so apologies if this is a stupid newbie question. I'd appreciate any help, thanks.
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It wouldn`t be terribly hard to put them there , w/ a small chainsaw file. I would id I was worried about them.
 
amazon69 said:
Hi all,

Hopefully you experienced engine builders can help me here. I am putting some bearings and rings etc into my 360. When I went to replace the con rod bearings I see that the Clevite 77 bearings that I have are slightly different to those I'm taking out. They fit perfectly otherwise, but the new bearings don't have the little cut out which I suppose allows/helpsView attachment 1715105029 oil circulation. I am sure I ordered the correct bearings, but I am unsure now whether to continue fitment or find some bearings with the cut out. I have attached a picture showing the original bearing vs the new, showing the missing slot. This is the first time I've been this deep into an engine so apologies if this is a stupid newbie question. I'd appreciate any help, thanks.
Click to expand...
It will not make a difference, built many engines and it's common. These are plane bearings and have an oil film between the crank throw and rod bearings. Just make sure your clearances are correct and you're good to go! 65'
 
As in post 2, it's to put oil on the cylinder walls. A moment with a file will do it. But IIRC, SCAT aftermarket rods do not have the slot so engines survive with oil being slung up on/deposited the walls from other sources. Production /6 rods had similar oiling holes for a long time and then they disappeared in the 70's or thereabouts.
 
amazon69 said:
Hi all,

Hopefully you experienced engine builders can help me here. I am putting some bearings and rings etc into my 360. When I went to replace the con rod bearings I see that the Clevite 77 bearings that I have are slightly different to those I'm taking out. They fit perfectly otherwise, but the new bearings don't have the little cut out which I suppose allows/helpsView attachment 1715105029 oil circulation. I am sure I ordered the correct bearings, but I am unsure now whether to continue fitment or find some bearings with the cut out. I have attached a picture showing the original bearing vs the new, showing the missing slot. This is the first time I've been this deep into an engine so apologies if this is a stupid newbie question. I'd appreciate any help, thanks.
Click to expand...
It will not make a difference, built many engines and it's common. These are plane bearings and have an oil film between the crank throw and rod bearings. Just make sure your clearances are correct and
amazon69 said:
Hi all,

Hopefully you experienced engine builders can help me here. I am putting some bearings and rings etc into my 360. When I went to replace the con rod bearings I see that the Clevite 77 bearings that I have are slightly different to those I'm taking out. They fit perfectly otherwise, but the new bearings don't have the little cut out which I suppose allows/helpsView attachment 1715105029 oil circulation. I am sure I ordered the correct bearings, but I am unsure now whether to continue fitment or find some bearings with the cut out. I have attached a picture showing the original bearing vs the new, showing the missing slot. This is the first time I've been this deep into an engine so apologies if this is a stupid newbie question. I'd appreciate any help, thanks.
Click to expand...

Install the bearings as they are, never take a file/grinder to any bearing IMO! 65'
 
Install the bearings as they are, never take a file/grinder to any bearing IMO!

I am very reluctant to take a file to the bearings. Doesn't seem sensible, plus I'm bound to **** it up. It would seem like a better option to find bearings with the slot, as more oiling has to be better. Doesn't seem to be quite so easy though, as the correct part number seems to be hit and miss as to whether the slots are there or not. Thanks for the help, much appreciated :)
 
amazon69 said:
Install the bearings as they are, never take a file/grinder to any bearing IMO!

I am very reluctant to take a file to the bearings. Doesn't seem sensible, plus I'm bound to **** it up. It would seem like a better option to find bearings with the slot, as more oiling has to be better. Doesn't seem to be quite so easy though, as the correct part number seems to be hit and miss as to whether the slots are there or not. Thanks for the help, much appreciated :)
Click to expand...

The notch is the bearing as mentioned is for slinging oil up the cylinder walls under the pistons, which also tends to cool the piston a bit as the oil carries that heat away, but oil comes out around the sides of bearings naturally, so the oil gets slung around up in there anyway.
This is why it doesn't matter much if the opening is there or not.
Myself, if I thought it was that important I wouldn't have a problem notching them with the corner of a file, or even my Mototool.
The only really critical part would be to clean the edges of the notch so there were no burrs around it that might hold the edge of the bearing from seating against the rod and cap.
That area of a bearing never touches the crank journal anyway as they are slightly tapered at the ends to insure that.

Image D shows this tapered edge that never touches the journal.
You can even see it on your old bearings.

clip_image00242.jpg
 
They also oil the bottom of the camshaft, oiling the opposite pistons never hurts especially at lower engine RPM's & heavier loads
 
And most of us,(not me), all like to idle our engines as slow as possible to hear the lope, and then when we put it in gear, she loses another 50 rpm.................
But I just got to wonder how much oil actually comes spurting out of there at 550 rpm.
If you have a flat tappet cam, I like the idea of extra oil on it. After my second cam lost two lobes, I did everything I could think of to oil them.
 
I do have a flat tappet cam, so I think I'll hunt down some bearings with the slot. Seems only fair on the old engine.
 
amazon69 said:
I do have a flat tappet cam, so I think I'll hunt down some bearings with the slot. Seems only fair on the old engine.
Click to expand...
I just bought 360 rod bearings from O'reilly's. They had the slot
 
amazon69 said:
I do have a flat tappet cam, so I think I'll hunt down some bearings with the slot. Seems only fair on the old engine.
Click to expand...


As pointed out above, I never let my engines idle below 850-900. There is just no reason to do it. My engine will easily idle at 750-800 with 255 @ .050 on 340 inches. I make it idle at 900. There is no reason to let them idle slow.

I've seen more smoked pushrods and PR cups, more galled rocker shafts, more junk roller lifters from low idle speeds and low idle oil pressure than I have from anything else.

Also, watched the same stuff when guys think it's a great idea to crank the engine over with the ignition off to build oil pressure. A garanteed parts killing way to do it for sure.
 
Plymouth 65 said:
It will not make a difference, built many engines and it's common. These are plane bearings and have an oil film between the crank throw and rod bearings. Just make sure your clearances are correct and
Install the bearings as they are, never take a file/grinder to any bearing IMO! 65'
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Back in the day, Chrysler used to put on drag seminars. THEY specifically stated that even filing side grooves on thrust bearings was a way to increase oiling to the thrust surfaces of the bearing. I did it to all my hemi cranks after Tom Hoover told me that. I had asked him about loosing a crank because of the thrust bearing going bad. As u may or may not,know he was called the godfather of the hemi.I know an 18 time national record holder that I HAVE SEEN , POLISH BEARINGS TOO. I have done that a time or two w/ no problems, altho there needs to be a specific reason for it.
 
Yeah I agree with a higher idle. My [email protected] will rumpidy-rump just fine idling around the parking lot at 550, but it Neutral idles at 800, cuz I value the guts in there, more than the rumpidy-rump. That 230 is a 276/286/110 advertised, and at 800 you can barely tell there's a cam in there, which,at first, disappointed me. And no one has ever said to me "nice cam",lol. But they say other stupid stuff too so......
My favorite stupid comment is " you shoulda put a 340 in it it wouldda been way faster". So I say putta 340 in yours and maybe I'll let you get close enough to read my license plate. OK no, I don't actually say that out loud. I don't think you can reason with all peoples.I just Zip-it.
 
My last 340 ran a solid cam 257@50 and it idles at around 1000rpm with a 4200 stall 8 3/4" turbo action convertor, I'm going to try to replicate the motor trans combo for my 64 barracuda.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Yeah I agree with a higher idle. My [email protected] will rumpidy-rump just fine idling around the parking lot at 550, but it Neutral idles at 800, cuz I value the guts in there, more than the rumpidy-rump. That 230 is a 276/286/110 advertised, and at 800 you can barely tell there's a cam in there, which,at first, disappointed me. And no one has ever said to me "nice cam",lol. But they say other stupid stuff too so......
My favorite stupid comment is " you shoulda put a 340 in it it wouldda been way faster". So I say putta 340 in yours and maybe I'll let you get close enough to read my license plate. OK no, I don't actually say that out loud. I don't think you can reason with all peoples.I just Zip-it.
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I got asked "why not a 340?" just the other day and I asked why I would do that when the car didn't come with a 340 and the 5.9 is faster and cheaper anyway.
Even if I did have a 340 I would sell it instead of running it.:D
 
TrailBeast said:
I got asked "why not a 340?" just the other day and I asked why I would do that when the car didn't come with a 340 and the 5.9 is faster and cheaper anyway.
Even if I did have a 340 I would sell it instead of running it.:D
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Eggzactikally; I had 4 of 340 blocks to choose from, some even were low-mileage units,; pass,pass,pass,and pass.
Once a 360 always a 360.
Unless of course I was gonna stroke it, then it wouldn't much matter. But for me.... it would still be a 360.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Eggzactikally; I had 4 of 340 blocks to choose from, some even were low-mileage units,; pass,pass,pass,and pass.
Once a 360 always a 360.
Unless of course I was gonna stroke it, then it wouldn't much matter. But for me.... it would still be a 360.
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I thought Eggzactikally was spelled with only one L, no?.
If I want more power I'll put a Pro Charger on it.
9:1 with .512 lift and 214/244 duration with forced induction? Uh huh.:D
 
AJ/FormS said:
That's a lotta cam in a lightweight-A.
That's a lotta cam in anything,lol.
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I ran this cam for years it ran so good, I did have 1 7/8 hooker super comps
and 3 2bbl mechanical carbs 4782, 4783. I tried a few different convertors but the turbo action worked the best. It was a low $ motor I built 30 years ago and ran it on the street in a 70 cuda 4 speed 3:91. It was a little weak at low rpm,s and I advanced the cam 4* one year and that helped a bit but around 3000rpm it would start screaming and would have you pined in the seat through 7800rpm. 3400lb car 11.84 @ 114.78 mph
 
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Hyup,
Good Lawd,that's a lotta cam..........I'm a streeter and say "lotta cam", cuz I had a 292/108 that IIRC was [email protected], and IMO it was a terrible street-cam for a stick-car, even with 11.3 Scr, in my 367. I too moved it around to pump up the low-rpm, but I couldn't hardly get it outta there fast enough. It just wasn't for me.
Brian, I know you're a smart man, and I know that you know that 30 years later you don't need that much cam to go that fast at 3000 pounds,loaded. I'm guessing you're after the nostalgia factor, nuthin' wrong with that! I'd love to be 34 again.Heck, I'd like to be back in 1971, at age 18! Ok make that 1975 when I met my ohsocurvy,100#, wife-to-be.

115 is a P/W of 8.2, so you're looking at just 366 horsepower.
and that is a very hot 323, and a moderate 345 and slightly warmed up, hi-Comp367.Or a lazyazz stroker,lol. Paint 'em 273red, and almost nobody will know the difference.
But hey if you do clone that 340/257*, pleeeeease make a little sound clip, and I will try and loop it and play it over and over and over,lol,over and over..............
 
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amazon69 said:
Hi all,

Hopefully you experienced engine builders can help me here. I am putting some bearings and rings etc into my 360. When I went to replace the con rod bearings I see that the Clevite 77 bearings that I have are slightly different to those I'm taking out. They fit perfectly otherwise, but the new bearings don't have the little cut out which I suppose allows/helpsView attachment 1715105029 oil circulation. I am sure I ordered the correct bearings, but I am unsure now whether to continue fitment or find some bearings with the cut out. I have attached a picture showing the original bearing vs the new, showing the missing slot. This is the first time I've been this deep into an engine so apologies if this is a stupid newbie question. I'd appreciate any help, thanks.
Click to expand...
File a slot and put em in... simple deal and stuff like this is done everyday in pro engine shops all around the world. I used to be skeered to do stuff like this but not in the last 50 years... or if they are .020 under sell them to me cheap so I can file the slot and use them in my 383 small block.
 
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