360 conecting rod play

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63dartman

63dartman

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I finally tore into my 360 that started making a bottom end noise. I pulled the pan and rocked the crank back and forth with the balancer bolt. I can see and feel play in the connecting rod bearings. I pulled one and it has a little gouging but nothing too severe. I had swapped out the pistons and changed the bearings at that time(about 6 months before the noise started). Is it possible I put the wrong size in. How would I determine the right size bearing to be running? My bearings are stamped with a .010 This engine was rebuilt at one of the mass engine suppliers so I know it was rebuilt but not sure how much the crank was turned down. Is there any crank rod bearing journal sizes that will determine what size bearings should be in there?
 
You really need to actually check the bearing clearance. To install bearings without checking the clearances is asking for trouble. To buy the correct bearing, measure the journal diameter (vernier or mic) and compare it to the stock size to find out if it has been ground under size and by how much. Or, take the measurement to a high performance parts/machine shop and let them figure it out.
 
well, I just realized my bearings look like crap. They have deep grooves and missing some material. Could this be from running a windage tray on a 360? I heard it's not a good idea. My journals are measuring 2.115 .010 undersized to stock dimensions. I removed the windage tray and I'm thinking about just polishing up the journals (they look fine, no pitting or gouging)and installing new bearings without the tray. I just don't want to pull it again in another 5k:)

party 173 (Medium).jpg
 
The Windage Tray Has Nothing To Do With Bearing Problems. You Have Clearence Issues, Rod, Or Crankshaft Concerns.
 
No, that is from the mass rebuilder's labor. Usually, that is horrific. Just enough to get it thru the warranty. I've seen heads where tehy turned down the valve stems.. yes.. the STEMS... in order to simply use smaller diameter guide inserts. They cut thru the hardening and the valves and liners were junk in under 10K miles. If it were me, I would simply buy a crank kit from a parts house. Last I priced them they were around $200 with bearings. Then check the clearances with plastigage. Paying to turn the crank further will be more$$ especially with the bearing costs. Windage trays dont cause rod starvation. Loose main clearances and pooly machined journals do.

Edit: that was from a Mopar Parts reman stock longblock...lol.
 
I just had a caddy 500 waste it's upper rod bearings due to detonation. My machinist told me that detonation put an extra load on the rod bearings(tops) and they wore down to the copper.....that was in 35 miles. My customer is to blame for this. He had someone adjust timing and carb AFTER my shop. It also broke 2 ring landings off.
 
hi, you might as well pull the crank out, and have it turned to correct size and get bearings for it. that is a lot cheaper than buying a crank and not knowing anything about it. like balance, journal sizes being correct. they are from a mass crank shop. usually not near the quality, as having yours done by a compentent crank grinder locally. also you can talk to him!! just food for thought.
 
perfacar said:
hi, you might as well pull the crank out, and have it turned to correct size and get bearings for it. that is a lot cheaper than buying a crank and not knowing anything about it. like balance, journal sizes being correct. they are from a mass crank shop. usually not near the quality, as having yours done by a compentent crank grinder locally. also you can talk to him!! just food for thought.
Click to expand...

and resize the rods
 
The tray has nothing to do with 'delivering oil' to your crank and rods.
It keeps oil in the pan / scrapes oil slung/fanned from the crank and rods and directs it to the pan keeping excessive oil off of the cyl walls from crank/rods fanning it everywhere.

crank scrapers are more precise but don't quite do the same job.
 
I'm almost at the point now to start looking for a decent 360 magnum to rebuild since this one is already at .060 over on the pistons and now with the crank issues. Thanks for all the help. I can see it is going to take more than just a bearing swap to make it right.
 
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