Separate names with a comma.
It's not that difficult to orient the distributor and cap and rotor. You can put them in like the factory did, that's easiest for most people to work to a standard. Or you can drop the distributor in, make sure that there is enough clearance with the fire wall and vacuum advance canister on the distributor for rotation and tuning. Then put the engine at TDC and see where the distributor cap is pointing. Now make that your #1 wire terminal and then follow the firing order around in the direction of rotation. As long as you get TDC oriented with #1 terminal on the distributor cap and then follow the firing order around in the direction of rotor rotation around the distributor cap, it will work....
You guys left one out 1......COMPRESSION....Enough compression, even if the engine is worn some. This figure varies with the engine, and also implies cam timing is OK and that the valve train is all intact 2.....SPARK.......ADEquate spark intensity and at the RIGHT time 3.....FUEL........Fresh, right kind, not too little not too much -------------------------------------------------------------------------- In the early 70's a "then" friend of mine put a 396 into a 57 Chev. He ain't my friend anymore because he turned out to be a thief. Anyhow I KNEW it should run because I helped him put it together, and lashed the valves. One Sat at the auto hobby shop, I was trynna get work done on my own car. he borrowed several things including a coil. Finally around noon, he came over and "asked" "you are gonna have to take alook at this I have no idea. So I go out there. And there's the usual "helpers." And everybody is drinking soda pop. He handed me a pepsi can and proclaimed "we've been priming it with this." I smelled the can to make damn sure it wasn't Pepsi. Handed it back and told him, "go get some gas in here." No, not Pepsi..............kerosene or jet fuel!!!
There is a 10+ month gap between post 42 and post 43! This can't be for real. I was 180 degrees out before. That can happen. TDC and ready to fire is something not that hard to do. There are two TDC positions. One is just after intake and compression. (#1) That's when #1 should be firing. The other is after combustion and exhaust. (#1) That's when #6 would be firing. This is a SB. CW distributor rotation. Not that hard. Moderators- where are you on this one? Just wonnerin.......
Why do we have to be anywhere, lol. They just revived the original thread instead of creating a new one. I believe this person is somewhat new to the hobby.
She just "laid it down awhile," OK? And, she's not an expert mechanic. So, since you are hot on the trail of the mods, how exactly does your post "help" here?
OK, I get your point. Someone needs to go there and help her. Before she gets hurt or damages something.
I gave advice on finding the correct TDC, as others have also tried to do. Guess you decided to edit that out of the quote. Let's help her get it up and running. Winter is coming!
We have and we are. I can't afford to fly out there......
First I'd get it on #1 or #6 TDC compression & I would do that by pulling the plugs (makes for easier turning. with a 1&1/4" socket/short extension/breaker bar hand turn the crank till the timing marks are at TDC on the tab. take off the oil fill cap on the pass side & have a helper move the crank back & forth (from TDC) a bit & you with an inspection mirror see if the #6 pushrods/rockers are moving when he moves the crank. If so you are on TDC #1 compression. If they ain't moving then you are on #6 compression. Back up the dampener to 15 BTDC. reinstall the plugs. install the dist & turn housing till the magnet is dead even with the tooth that places the rotor under either the #1 or the #6 plug wire (#1 wire if you are on #1 compression). best is to maintain the factory position of the #1 plug wire straight forward & slightly to the pass side/#6 rearward & slightly to the dr side. this lets the wires nestle with the shortest lengths possible & maintains the factory standardization & helps prevent future errors. I'm assuming this ain't a new cam breakin where this turning is wiping the cam lube off. As said reluctor gap at .008" checked with a brass feeler gauge and confirm the coil and ECU are getting fire in ign1 (run) and in ign2 (crank). pull the yellow wire off of the starter relay as to not run the batt down (you know it cranks OK). 2 terminal (single) ballast? I used to run that big yellow beast & accell wants a .8 ohm ballast in front of it (more wont hurt you). Orange ECU's have problems but it did fire correct?
I talked with her this eve. She bought this engine assembled evidently by a private party, it has never "really ran." She was told it's a purple shaft cam, but may not know which one. (paperwork?) She plans to get a gauge and do a compression check, set up the timing and try it. I would not make assumptions, guys. Who knows?? I sure don't know..........what cam this really is......where cam is timed...............whether the heads / deck has been shaved........and whether the valve gear is "right."
This is not a 383. It's a smallblock.
Thank you for your help. I have someone coming today to look at it. He used to race Mopars for a living. So hopefully he can see what it is that is causing me the issues. He said that if he can't figure it out in my garage we may have to tow it to his it may be more extensive than we think. I have worked on this car for a year now off and on and it is time to call in a professional.
Sorry to hear you haven't gotten this resolved. After talking with you, it's very possible it's an internal problem such as cam timing etc. Post back when ya find out eh? We'd like to hear what it turned out.
Ok this is where we are guys. We got it started. My timing was a little off I was 10 degrees off but that was not causing my issues. We were not getting fuel to the carb so we pulled the fuel pump. Pump was working good. We pulled the fuel line to the carb that was working good too. So we poured a little gas directly into the carb cranked on it a bit fired up then shot up in the air! There was a clog somewhere. So then we started it again would not start. Checked for spark with the key in Run position no spark. Cranked it over with the the ignition we had spark. So the ballast resistor was the problem Switched that out got spark with the key in the Run position. So my mechanic told me to drain the oil even though the car has never been driven and put new "break in oil" in with the zinc additive. Then after I do that we will break the cam in. I am so stoked. I think I might actually get behind the wheel soon and actually drive this beast for the first time in a year!
Very good. For the "viewers" she and I had quite a talk this weekend. This is a basically "unknown" new engine bought off CL. I was afraid the cam might be some off deal, or possibly not even installed correctly. The fact that she's finally got some fire is at least encouraging. I bet you are stoked.
I am Del and thank you for everything. We drained the oil because my guy said even though I had not driven it I didn't want that oil in it for the break in. So we are gonna prime the oil tomorrow in the engine then get her going. You know I never even heard of manually priming the oil. I guess its because there is a ton of air pockets in the engine that you don't want to just start cranking on it without priming it first. Well if I can i will post a short video here tomorrow or pictures if that don't work. It was so weird though first the ECU went bad then the ballast resistor. Both have been replaced so lets keep our fingers crossed there are no leaks tomorrow. Probably just jinxed myself lol.
Well good luck. Feel free to call or post here if you need. You are further along than my project. My arthritis, an incredibly long, hot summer, and the usual "side issues" has left me with not a lot done on mine. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970208133
Thank you guys for your help. I know that I am not only "New" to this but I am a "chick" too but I don't want that to sway anyone here. I came here with the intentions of finding help getting my Dart running. I have received nothing but positive feedback and comments here on my post. I know that it may be frustrating to see that after some time that the problem still was not resolved. It isn't about whether or not I did what was suggested it was about when I had time to do it. I am a full time student, employee, mom and wife. This takes time. Shoot you think I ain't frustrated? The point is I was trying to do this on my own. This is my first project and I can't even begin to tell you everything I have learned here on ABodies because every single one of you have been where I am at. No one is born a Mopar Mechanic well maybe some of you are (lol) but I had to start some time. As far as my post being 10 months apart who cares? The fact remains that I won't give up on my dream and that is to have my 69 Dart Swinger on the road. Sure I won't be the fasted Dart out there but I will beat my husband in his 69 Superbee with a 383! Again I want to thank you all for your help. I have met some really nice people on here I even met a fellow Dart owner that came to my house and helped me out with the timing originally just things kept going wrong. I have spoke with Del 67Dart273 both in emails and on the phone never once did I get any flack for being a chick or for being new. This is hard s***! Ok I had too much coffee as you can see and I am rambling on I just had to put that out there. I hope to get her on the road before it snows. I will. Oh her name is Sheila! (after my mom who passed away 7 yrs ago) Thanks again guys!
Flack? Heck woman, I think it's cool as hell when the "girls" get involved!! There's a couple more, that hang out on here, as well
In my 318 i rebuilt i had to advance the crank 6° for the cam and pull the disy and turn it 180° fired right up
I was wondering where all the fire & brimstone in your post was coming from till I got to this sentence!. I'd like to be there to see it happen.