Good idea!
Searching around and Trend Performance has a quick ship, 48 hour turn and burn for push rods. I'll givem a call tomorra.
360 LA installing Promaxx Aluminum heads
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Good idea!
Searching around and Trend Performance has a quick ship, 48 hour turn and burn for push rods. I'll givem a call tomorra.
What's best practice on measuring for pushrods? Adjuster in the middle of its adjustment when measuring?
This is what I'm led to believe. I biased a bit toward the top just so no threads are exposed on the lock nut. Position under the rocker seems fine to me.
Usually each brand will say how they want their rockers set. Many recommend 2-3 threads showing under the rocker to pull the pushrods properly. Top be the locknut means nothing other than you want a full jam nut at least.
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Example read this from Harland Sharp
Bakerlite
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Mismatched parts and the customer being stiffed with the finishing cost is the way of the future..
Even though HS and I'd say Mancini know of the issue, they still shafted you and managed to get you to work for them at the same time..!!
Good catch. 0 to 2 threads. You need to account for 1/2 turn pre load as well. I'm going to adjust and re-measure.
I think the cupped adjuster and ball pushrod is a better design. Like the PRW adjuster. Doesn’t that help the pushrod angle? A little?
Thanks @pittsburghracer, I have a set of the Mancini rockers that I can’t find instructions to. Supposedly they are made by HS so I’ll reference the sheet you posted.
I don't think they have instructions. My kit did not come with any and I did not find any on their site. If you bother to call.. let us know what they say.
Just called, he said to measure pushrod length with 2 threads showing, 3 at most. Zero lash with hyd roller lifters.
I'm going to reset mine to 1/2 thread showing and measure. Thought being with 1/2 showing and 1/2 turn pre-load, I should land close to right in the middle at 1 thread showing after the adjustment.
If you start with 2 or 3 threads already out you'll be at least 1/2 thread beyond what HS recommends as max(2) after making the pre-load adjustment right?
What is the total lifter plunger travel distance?
Dunno. They are Comp 822-16, the spec is not listed on their website.
High Energy Hydraulic Flat Lifter Set for Chrysler 273-360 and 383-440
Ok.. new measurement complete with 1/2 thread showing.
Drvr Side 7.267
Pass Side 7.314
So just a hair under five thousands between the two at .047.
Pushrods are ordered lengths in increments of .025. I'm thinking of ordering right at 7.310.
The driver side will need to be backed out a bit but with 1/2 turn pre-load it'll likely land just over that. Passenger side will land with near exactly 1 thread showing after 1/2 turn pre-load.
Or am I short coffee this am? Can someone pls confirm above before I call and place an order... lol.
Also sanded a bit off a shim and was able to get the rockers at #3 moving freely... so all good now. I'll mark per above recommendation prior to final assembly.
Drvr Side 7.267
Pass Side 7.314
So just a hair under five thousands between the two at .047.
Pushrods are ordered lengths in increments of .025. I'm thinking of ordering right at 7.310.
The driver side will need to be backed out a bit but with 1/2 turn pre-load it'll likely land just over that. Passenger side will land with near exactly 1 thread showing after 1/2 turn pre-load.
Or am I short coffee this am? Can someone pls confirm above before I call and place an order... lol.
Also sanded a bit off a shim and was able to get the rockers at #3 moving freely... so all good now. I'll mark per above recommendation prior to final assembly.
1st picture is for adjustable rocker arms.
2nd picture is for non adjustable rocker arms.
Below, 882-16 instructions;
2nd picture is for non adjustable rocker arms.
Below, 882-16 instructions;
As stated, the lifter should have .030- +or- .010. So the minimum amount of preload is .020 with the lifter on the base circle, pushrod in the proper spot in the lifter resting on the camshaft with the rockers bolted down and the adjuster at approximately of a half turn out from its seated position.
If your measuring for pushrods, put your adjustable pushrod length checker in as described at zero lash, in the proper lifter area, the rockers adjuster cup at a 1/2 turn from the bottom and zero vertical play of the pushrod should be adjusted in.
From there you can add a minimum of .020, .030 preferably as stated as the suggested preload lifter amount, .040 is now the plus .010 described above to the mean measurement and maximum.
In the second picture, the depressed plunger in the lifter is stated at .020 min, .080 maximum, ether the shaft on the non adjustable rockers needs to be moved or in the case of adjustable rockers, the adjustment screws needs adjusting in or out.
It’s been long said that it should really not be more than 2-1/2 turns out from the west for the adjuster. It starts becoming more and more of a breakage risk the farther it is from the seat. If indeed you need more than the 3 turns of the adjuster, you really need new pushrods.
Lightly loading the pushrod, .010 or less preload will start the lifter acting like a variable lifter.
NOT a recommend route to take.
To long of a lifter has the Hyd. acting closer to a solid lifter. NOT a recommend route to take.
Pushrods to long are worse than to short (IMO) but to long of a pushrod can lead to bad max lift geometry. It becomes exaggerated with greater and greater lifts.
I hope this helps.
If your measuring for pushrods, put your adjustable pushrod length checker in as described at zero lash, in the proper lifter area, the rockers adjuster cup at a 1/2 turn from the bottom and zero vertical play of the pushrod should be adjusted in.
From there you can add a minimum of .020, .030 preferably as stated as the suggested preload lifter amount, .040 is now the plus .010 described above to the mean measurement and maximum.
In the second picture, the depressed plunger in the lifter is stated at .020 min, .080 maximum, ether the shaft on the non adjustable rockers needs to be moved or in the case of adjustable rockers, the adjustment screws needs adjusting in or out.
It’s been long said that it should really not be more than 2-1/2 turns out from the west for the adjuster. It starts becoming more and more of a breakage risk the farther it is from the seat. If indeed you need more than the 3 turns of the adjuster, you really need new pushrods.
Lightly loading the pushrod, .010 or less preload will start the lifter acting like a variable lifter.
NOT a recommend route to take.
To long of a lifter has the Hyd. acting closer to a solid lifter. NOT a recommend route to take.
Pushrods to long are worse than to short (IMO) but to long of a pushrod can lead to bad max lift geometry. It becomes exaggerated with greater and greater lifts.
I hope this helps.
^^^ Very good writeup.. thx!
If I'm reading the HS instructions correctly... it would appear they like the push rod cup very close to the rocker to maintain proper geometry... 0~2 threads. Think ordering 7.310 will land me in that target range.
If I'm reading the HS instructions correctly... it would appear they like the push rod cup very close to the rocker to maintain proper geometry... 0~2 threads. Think ordering 7.310 will land me in that target range.
Started making calls to order.....
Trend Performance 2~3 weeks.
Smith Brothers 2~3 weeks.
I can get a set of Comp at Summit today: COMP Cams Magnum Pushrods 7692-16
I should be able to work with that length. Gotta ask the dumb "Q" though. Description says "Magnum Pushrods", should I care about using them on an LA?
Trend Performance 2~3 weeks.
Smith Brothers 2~3 weeks.
I can get a set of Comp at Summit today: COMP Cams Magnum Pushrods 7692-16
I should be able to work with that length. Gotta ask the dumb "Q" though. Description says "Magnum Pushrods", should I care about using them on an LA?
Thanks.
What’s actually really nice is the lifters plunger goes very deep. So to error on slightly longer is not actually a huge deal.
Though I really like to get exactly what I want in length, some places will cut only to certain lengths or increments. I’m going to have to relearn those companies in the upcoming future.
With solid lifters, you don’t have the luxury of being off a lot, or a little…. You got to be spot on or super stupid silly close.
What’s actually really nice is the lifters plunger goes very deep. So to error on slightly longer is not actually a huge deal.
Though I really like to get exactly what I want in length, some places will cut only to certain lengths or increments. I’m going to have to relearn those companies in the upcoming future.
With solid lifters, you don’t have the luxury of being off a lot, or a little…. You got to be spot on or super stupid silly close.
That “Magnum” moniker has nothing to do with MoPar unless the instructions say very specifically it is for a 5.2/5.9 Magnum engine. If the pushrods you get have an oiling hole through them, I would not worry.
I'm pretty sure Magnum is just a product line name that Comp uses. Nothing to do with Mopar small block Magnums.
Well allrighty... lesson learned. I forgot to subtract the depth of the cup on the measurement tool to get the effective length. After a few trips to Summit.. H/T to their counter folks.. really helpful.
Anyway... quick math says I need a pushrod 7.100 long in a ball and cup. Interwebby says no such animal exists.. if I wanted ball/ball the world would be my oyster as there is a large number made in that configuration.
Anyway.. if anyone knows where I can lay hands on an already made 7.100 ball cup please cluebat me in. Otherwise I'll need to order Monday and wait up to 3 weeks. .
Anyway... quick math says I need a pushrod 7.100 long in a ball and cup. Interwebby says no such animal exists.. if I wanted ball/ball the world would be my oyster as there is a large number made in that configuration.
Anyway.. if anyone knows where I can lay hands on an already made 7.100 ball cup please cluebat me in. Otherwise I'll need to order Monday and wait up to 3 weeks. .
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