360 on the engine stand, now what do I do?

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1970Duster said:
Also something to know about roller cams, They bring you into the power curve sooner and keep you there longer then a flat tappet cam period!
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Yes, better torque curve, a roller cam is less of a parasite too, easier for the engine to turn. So many benefits and a lot less head aches just going with a roller block to start with.
 
mopardude318 said:
yea, that is true....i do have to put a bottle of zinc additive every oil change...maybe next time when i build another motor ill throw in a roller cam...but thats far away from now..
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Oh totally understand! My 340 was at the machine shop, cam picked out sitting there in the box ready to go when I found out about that zinc crap. Cam shipped back, roller cam bought, cam ready to go in, found out it was billit steel, 4 hours on the phone hunting down a roller cam with an intergrated cast iron gear on it, new cam ordered, billit cam returned, wallet with less money in it from all the ordering and return shipping, know I won't have to rip this motor back apart because of brass intermiate gear completely worth it! A regular harden shaft and gear is what I have now.
All I can say is if/when anybody goes to a roller cam, MAKE DOUBLE SURE IT HAS AN INTERGRATED CAST IRON GEAR ON IT! I just typed out the crap I went through.
 
I had to run the brass gear. When I had the engine out a couple weeks ago the brass gear still looks like new after over 3,000 miles.
 
340sFastback said:
I had to run the brass gear. When I had the engine out a couple weeks ago the brass gear still looks like new after over 3,000 miles.
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That brass gear was designed for drag racers who were/are constantly ripping into/rebuilding their motors. When that brass starts to wear, you'll have to take the apart and have it hot tanked to clean it out. Not something I wanted to do so a hyd roller with cast gear was hunted down. When I bought my cam you couldn't get a solid roller with a cast iron gear (otherwise I would've bought that). That was 2+ years ago so now you might be able to get on with a cast iron gear on it. In your case (if they do come with an iron gear on it) would I change it, nope, not until the brass one worn down and I had to hot tank the block. Then upgrade time.
 
abodybomber said:
money ahead,to find a roller block,set it up.instead of buying $ 6.00 a quart oil,walk up,buy the $18.00 five quart jug of oil,every 3,000 miles.you have time till your married,maintence prices will be lower ,in the long run. congradulations ,on your engagement.
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hey thanks, were making it official not this December but for December 2013
 
1970Duster said:
Yes everything from your current 360 will bolt to the roller block 360 because both are LA blocks. So a 727 will bolt up no problem. For what the motor came in, look for late 80s/early 90s (90-91) Dodge pickups (full size) and vans.
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so im looking for a 1998-2003 - 5.9 L (360 cu in) Magnum V8, 250 hp (190 kW)?
 
360-68cudu said:
so im looking for a 1998-2003 - 5.9 L (360 cu in) Magnum V8, 250 hp (190 kW)?
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Magnum motor is totally different from an LA motor. The LA motor you're after is from 89-91(could be 92 as well) 93 and up is a magnum motor. You can the la roller block in a dodge full size pickup from 89-91
 
cheaper stock lifters is the only reason to sit and wait on a roller block, otherwise if u go soild roller...same cost no matter what kind of block.
 
1970Duster said:
All I can say is if/when anybody goes to a roller cam, MAKE DOUBLE SURE IT HAS AN INTERGRATED CAST IRON GEAR ON IT! I just typed out the crap I went through.
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I'd be interested in hearing more about which cam you went with? My roller cam block is at the machine shop right now.
 
BrianT said:
I'd be interested in hearing more about which cam you went with? My roller cam block is at the machine shop right now.
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My cam core came from crane but is setup with lunati grind of
@50 231/239
.535"in/.550"out
110/106 lobe
2400-6200 rpm
Requires 2500 stall and 3.42 or up gearing.
 
Solid rollers are worth it. IMO, a hydraulic roller is not. It is NO faster in terms of rate of lift than a good solid flat taappet, and only slightly faster than a flat tappet hydraulic. The vast majority of failures with flat tappets result from installer error. Meaning they were not checked and set up properly, or initially fired, or broken in properly. The pwer is certainly not enough more to make me sell a good LA flat tappet block. Just make sure you or the shop do things by the book. No exceptions. And you're fine with a flat tappet.
 
well Pick n Pull prices a small block @
Engine Short BlockCar$129.99 CORE $19.99and on holiday weekends there 50% putting me at $65

and im only $50 into this 75 360 so I want to make the right decision on which block to go with. im sure I can hold on to this 75 block or sell it in the future for more than what i got it for.
 
after I rebuild this 1990 roller block what do I do as far as cam and lifter? what recomendations?
 
I'm looking to build a street car all engine but with some power to have some fun. I plan to put some 3.55 gears in the back beef up the tranny and build the engine up as much as possible but maintaining a reliable car that I can drive around
 
Abodybomber said:
Money ahead,to find a roller block,set it up.Instead of buying $ 6.00 a quart oil,walk up,buy the $18.00 five quart jug of oil,every 3,000 miles.You have time till your married,maintence prices will be lower ,in the long run.Congradulations ,on your engagement.
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Valvoline at the store is about 4.00 a quart. Brad Penn is about 6. Thats 10.00 more per oil change. How many oil changes do you do a year on your old car? Its not that expensive. Rollers are better, but if you find a cheap older block, its no big deal, in my opinion.
 
360-68cudu said:
I'm looking to build a street car all engine but with some power to have some fun. I plan to put some 3.55 gears in the back beef up the tranny and build the engine up as much as possible but maintaining a reliable car that I can drive around
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what you are doing isn't worth the effort in changing blocks, u can what u want and more with the non roller LA block and a flat tappet cam.

you sound like a candidate for something in the range of 340 cam to the comp 268, you sound like you just want something with some idle but lower rpm range torque mainly, 1500-5800 rpm or so.
 
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