Has anyone used crank spacer to in install a 3.31 crank into a .040" over 360 to make a 340, If I don't build my 273 I got a low mileage .040" 360 with a spun bearing and the crank already 0.020"/0.020", Would there be reliability issues with a 7000+ engine?
360 with a 3.31 crank
- Thread starter 273
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Mo-Par
Well-Known Member
No, but it sounds like good start for a 410 stroker to me.
Have you priced the spacers?
Plus the block needs to aligned bored before the spacers...and aligned bored after the spacers.....
Figure you can probably buy a very nice forged crank for that......
74Dusted
Stock Piler of 340's
From what I've heard they used to make a bearing spacer to do that, and as far as I know (from what I last heard) There is still one or two companies out there that make them, but I have no idea who that is or where you would even begin to look.
I wanted to do the same thing with a 360 I had that needed a crankshaft, wanted to punch it out .040 and put in a 3.31" crank. Couldn't find the bearing spacers though, so I threw it in the back of the dumptruck with a load of cast iron. By now its probably turned into honda lug nuts.
I wanted to do the same thing with a 360 I had that needed a crankshaft, wanted to punch it out .040 and put in a 3.31" crank. Couldn't find the bearing spacers though, so I threw it in the back of the dumptruck with a load of cast iron. By now its probably turned into honda lug nuts.
I seen them on Mancini website for like $350 before there made by Callies. I'd use a 340 but the way Time Attack is setup if I start with an engine with too much stock Net HP like even the 245hp 340 it would put me in too high of a class trying to stay under SRT8, Vipers and Vettes, 155hp 360 would put me in a way lower class, but i like the powerband of 3.31 stroked engines. The way the rules are setup it's best to start with the lowest HP engine and use there PIP system for mods that why I wanted to build my 273, but theres no net hp numbers for 273 so that's given me a bit of a problem. I found that 1980 318 is rated at Net 120hp which would be my best starting point.
Interesting,273. Sounds like circle track racing,or early NHRA stock class racing. A easier way to help us,let the site know the rules.I don't know if you have.
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
are you allowed to stroke the 318? there is a guy at my local drag strip that runs mid 10s with a stroked 318. thing is wicked.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
There's really very litte difference in the power band of a 340 vs. 360 if built identical. You have to keep in mind that larger engines need to breath better so heads make a difference in the rpm power band. My old 360 didn't have any problem spinning to 6500 with just a Comp XE274 cam but part of the reason it wound up good was a good breathing set of heads. Considering the cost to make a 340 from a 360 as Tony outlined I wouldn't even consider it. Especially after owning a 408. My 408 may not wind up as tight but it'll break drag radials loose at 45 mph. JMHO
:blob:Fishy,did the 408 gig.Wanna go back.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
No kidding. Why don't you like it?
I loved it,it died.Didn"t know about the H/D oil pump intermediate shaft.Had a 260@ .050 hyd flat tappet with Eddy heads.The 4" stroke sure soaks up camshaft. Gonna send you a P.M about EQ heads.....
These are the rules section 4/5/6 are the main ones 5 deals with the engine,
[ame]http://www.casc.on.ca/sites/default/files/p1919_2012_time_attack_rules_net.pdf[/ame]
The 273 is an almost no go since I'd have to fine someone with a stock one have it chassis dyno tested use there conversion formula, I can't see the Net 273 hp number being too much under if at all than 1980 318 Net 120hp (wonder why 80 rated so low but this gonna help me a lot) and don't think the 360 worth it with any stroke size for the couple of class it would move me up.
Thank you for posting,273.Makes it a lot clearer,what you want to do.You need a single pattern cam ,for torque.Rhodes lifters absolutely qualify,for this.If doing a 318,you know enough.If you haven't started a thread,start one about your ambitions,and project.
If I was building small block for just Street or street and strip 360 would be my choice, but for road course I think 340 would be best but I be in too high of class and I agree now it too much $$$ to make a 340 out of a 360. I'd don't like the bore/stroke and rod ratio of 408 I'd rather build 451 instead, After finding this one year 1980 super low HP 318 120 net will be my best bet.
318 will be easy, don't have to worry about valve sizes and getting 200+cfm in that small bore, and I can use the crank, and maybe the heads and rockers.
Does anyone know the dates for an 1980 block would it be july 79 to july 80 ?
sireland67
Well-Known Member
The dates would be cast on the side of the block, this is the casting date.
Jan 1 1980 to Dec 31 1980.
It looks like there was a few differnt engine block casting numbers from the factory, might want to check if one or the other is a better starting point.
[ame]http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Mopar_Drivetrain_Numbers.pdf[/ame]
I know the GM factory in town here does there change over in July so after this July 2013 they will be making 2014 cars until next July 2014, I imagine its like that for all manufactures but would that be the case for 1980 dodge? If I start with the wrong year that would move me up a class or two.
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