Back at it again fellas!! I replaced my ignition coil(accell performance), dizzy points and condenser( i replaced with genuine oem mopar parts),(after finding my points and condenser went bad) and it fired up and i had a spark tester hooked up in between the coil and dizzy cap- i noticed when i snap the throttle it will lose its spark intermittently, please take in mind that i have ignition module and the ballast resister bypassed( when its hooked up i get no power inside the cab and no spark at all)( i have my hot coming from switch power inside the cab with an inline fuse and ground goes straight to the dizzy)- i didnt have issues with this before i fried the points and condenser( accidentally fried the points and condenser putting the wrong coil in the car), does anyone have any idea as to what is going on? Maybe i should replace the coil with a non performance one since im using a single points distributor(1wire coming out of it)?
383 BB-Intermittent loss of spark when i hit the throttle
- Thread starter austinE77
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Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Points systems still require a ballast resistor, and you said you bypassed it. Get a points ballast and hook it up, or you'll stand a good chance of cooking the coil if you haven't already.
The car should start off IGN 2 12 v and runs off of IGN 1 8 v . Your coil will become intermittent and pause if overheated. Do you have 2 ignition sources from the ignition switch IGN1 and ING 2..
"IGN1" typically refers to a circuit that is powered when the key is in the "run" position (engine running), while "IGN2" is a circuit that is only powered during the "start" position when the engine is cranking, You must use a ballast resister to achieve this
"IGN1" typically refers to a circuit that is powered when the key is in the "run" position (engine running), while "IGN2" is a circuit that is only powered during the "start" position when the engine is cranking, You must use a ballast resister to achieve this
Should be .5-.6 ohm. What modual you bypass? Also OMM is spot on.
To add to the above, there are TWO types of oem ish replacement coils. You can buy straight 12V coils, used mostly on tractors, etc, that run direct off 12V. But most all OEM coils including Ford, GM, and Chrysler use a ballast. GM/ Ford often used a resistive wire inside the harness. As OldManMopar said, the ign2 comes alive ONLY in start, and feeds straight battery voltage to the coil for starting, as IGN1 goes dead during cranking.
IGN1 comes back alive when you release the key to "run." We are talking here, about a factory type ign switch. If you have something "rigged" such as a universal switch or toggle switch, then that does not apply
IF THE COIL you are using is an OEM type coil requiring a ballast, then you MUST use the proper ballast.
Leaving the key "on" during fiddling around, adjusting valves or testing, for very long, WILL RESULT in damage to the points or coil. IT WILL NOT hurt the condenser. Condensers, however, do go bad
Condensers (capacitors) contrary to the internet CAN NOT BE TESTED with an ohmeter. THEY MUST be tested with a high voltage leakage test. Then they must be tested for proper capacitance. "New" does not guarantee "good"
IGN1 comes back alive when you release the key to "run." We are talking here, about a factory type ign switch. If you have something "rigged" such as a universal switch or toggle switch, then that does not apply
IF THE COIL you are using is an OEM type coil requiring a ballast, then you MUST use the proper ballast.
Leaving the key "on" during fiddling around, adjusting valves or testing, for very long, WILL RESULT in damage to the points or coil. IT WILL NOT hurt the condenser. Condensers, however, do go bad
Condensers (capacitors) contrary to the internet CAN NOT BE TESTED with an ohmeter. THEY MUST be tested with a high voltage leakage test. Then they must be tested for proper capacitance. "New" does not guarantee "good"
So far as your loss of spark, no idea. Perhaps the points are set incorrectly and are so far open that then don't always close. Or perhaps the opposite, gapped too closely and don't always open. When you "goose" the engine, if the vacuum is connected, it can change points gap when moving. If the dist. has some play in the mechanism, shaft, advance, or advance plate, it may move enough to stop points action. You have a dwell meter? How are you gapping the points and how much.
WHAT KIND OF DISTRIBUTOR?
WHAT KIND OF DISTRIBUTOR?
What is the dwell, & does it change? Check the dist shaft for play, make sure the '3-arm starfish' clip is holding the advance plate snug on the 3 pads, & that the vac advance arm isn't bent &/or twisted causing the plate to move up & down when it moves. I've also seen point bodies bent so that the rubbing block wasn't square to the cam, which made it dwell wrong for the point gap.
You say "points and condenser" and then say you have the ballast and ignition module bypassed. So WHAT IGNITION are we talking about here?
I took it that the body/ wiring was set up for factory ECU and that he has disconnected this and stuck a breaker points dist in.
Do you have your cylinder heads grounded?
To many people have really poor grounds on their engines. Having good quality grounds of proper size on the cylinder heads eliminate a lot of issues.
Tom
To many people have really poor grounds on their engines. Having good quality grounds of proper size on the cylinder heads eliminate a lot of issues.
Tom
I've found when we assume, we usually regret it around here.
Another hit and run.
this is the same dude that broke down and was looking for a tow at the bro rate on a friday night cross town job. cross town the long ways, mind you.
he is also the same guy that did a /6 to 318 swap and had smoke coming up from behind the balancer.
so who knows what's going on...
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Tweakers.
He doesn't know what he's got, what he's doing, nor why he's doing it.
I picture a car with LOTS of red wire stuffed under the dash, at least one household 110V switch wired in somewhere, and a driver with marginal understanding of what 'poyntz' actually are.
Notice I said 'driver'. I'm not assuming 'owner'.
He doesn't know what he's got, what he's doing, nor why he's doing it.
I picture a car with LOTS of red wire stuffed under the dash, at least one household 110V switch wired in somewhere, and a driver with marginal understanding of what 'poyntz' actually are.
Notice I said 'driver'. I'm not assuming 'owner'.
that sounds downright professional.
much preferred over a big *** wad of speaker wire gacked into the harness and running to the ECU & coil on a DIY electronic conversion replete with plumber's tape and drywall screws.
gotta keep it clean with half wrong sized crimp connectors and half re-used wire nuts.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I like the cut of your jib, sailer
Kinda like that nodemon guy?
That's sorta what Audi did for years. All of their wires were black, but color coded on each end. Insanity.
I have talked to nodemon, he's real, he just knows nothing about cars, but, no one knows everything. I really don't think that he meant to offend you today, not the way that I read it. It was kind of a sideways compliment. I wasn't going to say anything, but there it is.
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