383 refresh combo opinions..

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What header are you planning to purchase from Summit? Keep in mind that very few headers fit this application. I'd hate to see you throw money away on something that doesn't fit.
 
The Summit B body headers - they're a 5/16" flange instead of the Hedman 1/4" and cheaper by $50 or so - plus they have the same header in the pics..
 
the little 383's can be good lil motors. got one myself. see's 6800 rpm everytime i drive it.

[ame]http://youtu.be/DKWDPngenqE[/ame]
 
Zac- a couple pointers here (because I don't like people waisting their $$). Do not buy pistons until the block is bored- as it might not clean up at .030 & then what??

Have them deck the 383 block to get the piston at the top so there's Zero deck height. This is the only way to get decent compression in a 383!! The KB flat-top piston will be a decent choice.

Why would you re-use the head gaskets unless they are multi-layered Cometics? Otherwise- get the .039 Fel-pro's and get the proper quench in that chamber!

The XE comp cam is a good choice (I have the same exact 383 build going right now, but Diamond piston and 906 heads). Your engine should make an easy 400HP if ya follow the pointers- probally more like 425HP with 10:1 & the aluminum heads you plan to get next year. Which emphasizes why you need a zero deck and flat-top piston. The Aluminum head will take more compression, so a good 10:1 now will only help later! What are you thinking for alum.? stealth's? A larger 2.14 intake valve will help the beast ALOT! Air in= air out- it's that simple.:glasses7:

3" exhaust is not needed and actually will hurt your performance- don't do it. MUCH better off following what others have done (learned). Go with the Schumacher headers and head pipes & the Summit header-back kit 2.5" pipes.

Stick with the 11" Hemi converter with 2800 stall- still available. Perfect with 3.23 gears.

Carbs- 650cfm NEW Carter thunder series AVS; or similar Holley based 650.

Last words of advice- it's not always worth saving a buck here or there on parts. Stay away from Ebay, call Hughes or Chuck Lofgren there in the cities @ KTRE engines (a good friend of mine). Good luck with the build!:cheers:
 
chrisnben said:
3" exhaust is not needed and actually will hurt your performance- don't do it. MUCH better off following what others have done (learned). Go with the Schumacher headers and head pipes & the Summit header-back kit 2.5" pipes.

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While I don't completely agree with this statement in the case of Schumacher headers it makes total sense to run a 2.5" exhaust considering the collector size is 2.5 as well. Nothing to be gained by going bigger than collector size.
 
I think your gonna want a little more converter and rear gear. a decent 3500 stall and a set of 3.73 + rear gear and a 750 cfm carb and this combo will come alive. that motor is gonna want to rev. more air flow with aftermarket alum heads and the proper assembly and your gonna have a street monster.
 
younggun2.0 said:
I think your gonna want a little more converter and rear gear. a decent 3500 stall and a set of 3.73 + rear gear and a 750 cfm carb and this combo will come alive. that motor is gonna want to rev. more air flow with aftermarket alum heads and the proper assembly and your gonna have a street monster.
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I agree with this guy /\ /\ /\

So many people are afraid of convertor stall. New convertors drive normal. I have a 3500 convertor and wish it was higher. Car drives totally normal unless you matt it to the floor.
 
roccodart440 said:
I agree with this guy /\ /\ /\

So many people are afraid of convertor stall. New convertors drive normal. I have a 3500 convertor and wish it was higher. Car drives totally normal unless you matt it to the floor.
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Remember that the higher the stall speed the less efficiant it becomes. The OP is using this combo for 90% street driving. Sure it may drive like "normal", but with 3.23's I would not go higher than 3000 stall (10" converter).

Now, if a guy has a FAT wallet and is buying/ replacing everything at once, then sure, get a combo that works together- all of it- big cam & carb, big stall trans, & deep gears. Then have fun going to the malt shop- hoping you don't have to get on the freeway. :eek:ops:

I was once told by a veteran Mopar builder, "it's all a compromise"- as in how fast do ya want to go and what to sacrifice- as in driveability. :burnout:
 
chrisnben said:
Remember that the higher the stall speed the less efficiant it becomes. The OP is using this combo for 90% street driving. Sure it may drive like "normal", but with 3.23's I would not go higher than 3000 stall (10" converter).
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With 3:23's it may act a tad higher.

With 3:73's and up, 4,000 stall isn't out of the question. Can you go further? Maybe. I can't and won't say as I haven't been there.

They are still very efficient. This thought process of high stall converters being inefficient or not god for the street is yesterday s mentality, yesterdays technology.

Both my BB cars had 4,000 and 3500 convertors respectively. Both are over 10 years old see pretty much 100% street use and act normal. Both are on the original trannies.

the 3500 is so efficient you can't even foot brake the car. I have to launch at 1,000 rpm. The 4,000 you could foot brake a little higher.
 
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