383 w 6 pack set up opinions?

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tooslow

tooslow

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I am looking at the Mancini 6 pack set-up for some "Gee Whiz" factor on my 383 A body. Mild hyd cam 3:23 gear Auto 1600-5500RPM car
Daily Driver

Questions:
Is a 6 pack that hard to tune?
Would a standard 4 barrel dual plane mainifold run much better on a 383
Is the 6 packs sweet spot from 2500 to 6500 as i have read?



Thanks for helping
 
A six pack is not really hard to tune at all. Use the KISS method to begin with. Start with the center primary carb. Once you have that center carb dialed in, you'll realize that it is 90% of the ball game.

When it comes to the secondary side, I suggest a 02 meter to let you know how lean or rich you are. What ever plate you change on one, you change on the other.

While a well tuned 6pack is a hell of a runner, the expense of getting one is huge by compare to a 4bbl set up that will probably do jus fine a lot quicker and easier.
With that said, I'm currently saving up for my carbs and linkages now for my S/B 6 pack.

They are very flexable and will perform just super in the listed RPM range you read about. Truth be known, it'll also make a stretch for a few hundred RPM in each direction of the RPM scale. If you have Hughes engines port the intake, you can really help the intakes flow.

IMO, it is a great induction system. It is hard to get a single 4bbl to cover all the bases of street, street strip in one size. The 6 pack does this. The total CFM of the set up is rated as a 2bbl which is different than a 4bbl. In 4bbl speak, it's 780 CFM. The difference is a 750 carb has primaries of a certain size that will not feed a small or stock engine so well. There simply to large for a great idle and excellent response on a engine that is not up to par.

The small primary carb of the triple threat is small for great throttle response and the vacuum secondaries will open as much as needed. It almos sounds like I'm talking about a TQ carb now don't it? LOL

IIRC there is a slight difference for the big block carbs for the 6 pack.
 
Rob pretty much covered the tuning part ...my position...doesn't look stock by any means, BUT, the "Bling" factor is HUGE!!! :blob::blob::blob:
 
Okay, I went throught tuning a six-pack over tweny years ago. Here's what I found.

1. Make sure your electrical system is in perfect working order. Even a missing ground can cause problems that seem like carb problems. Trust me, I know.

2. Most people don't realize this, but the outboard carbs have an idle circuit. The adjustment screws are in the front of each outboard baseplate, behind lead plugs for original carbs. I can't remember for sure, but I think I adjusted each screw 1 round from bottom out and then used the center carb to dial it in. If you can adjust the center carb screws all the way in and it dies, and then all the way out, and it dies, you are in the ballpark for the outboard adjustments.

3. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks. I replaced all three base plates. Once I did that, it cured almost all my problems. Ensure all float levels are set right.

4. I used stock jetting and stock metering blocks. At least start there and go from there. Remember, that jetting is for wide opening conditions. Use the power valve for the intermediate circuit.

5. The diaphram springs control the opening rate of the outboard carbs. You probably will need to buy two spring kits and play with it. I think I have the second lightest springs.

6. Linkage only ensures the outboard carbs return to closed when you let up off the throttle.

Rod
 
My 440+6 was daily driven (in CT - snow tires and all) and was a great street induction. And that was before the Promax parts. You can get outboard baseplates that can be adjusted on the car. If you've never tuned one, you should be fairly proficient in tuning a Holley 4bbl first. It's not hard, but tedious, and very necessary. If you just bolt it on it will probably work, but you have no idea what you're missing...lol.
 
Great and a 6 pack it is. You guy's got me excited

Thanks for all the input!

(but you have no idea what you're missing...lol. (funny))

Yeah , I never had a 6 pack on a car and I think i will twist all the knobs before I install it, LOL
Bolting on an Edy 4 barrel would just be to easy
 
My "GEE WHIZ" factor just turned to "Holy ShiP"
I justed priced a complete 6 pack set-up and its around $1800. (carbs,manifold,linkage)WOW
 
And don't forget the single digit fuel mileage, because you CAN'T keep your foot out of it..... :burnout:
 
Had a 383 Six Pack set-up in my Belvedere...loved it....

Paul

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tooslow said:
My "GEE WHIZ" factor just turned to "Holy ShiP"
I justed priced a complete 6 pack set-up and its around $1800. (carbs,manifold,linkage)WOW
Click to expand...

Don't forget the fuel line and breather,these will be over $400 easy.
Not trying to deter you but check around and see if a 383s ride hight is the same as a small block in an a body.Small block with stock intake and breather just fits under the hood without a scoop.
 
yes sir wen you have a well tuned six pack it's hard to go back to a single 4 barrel.yes I sure miss mine...riding along at 30mph.the stand on it and turn those street tires into instant smoke.and the sound of all the air going threw them sounds like there going to suck the hood in if that don't do any thing for ya somethings wrong with ya!!!oooooman those were the days.and drove it everywhere.you will love it!!!!:cheers::cheers:............Artie
 
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