408 stroker cam recommendations

Discussion in 'Small Block Mopar Engine' started by Greenmachine225, Dec 6, 2018 at 8:06 PM.

  1. Greenmachine225

    Greenmachine225 Active Member

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    Hey guys, so I’m gonna end up building a 408 rather than my 318. The parts I plan to use for now are a set of 76 360 heads, nothing special and I know those are gonna hold the 408 back a bit but I will save up for some better heads, an Edelbrock performer rpm and I have a Holley 600 vacuum secondary and a 650 double pumper though I’m not sure what I will use. So on to my question, with those parts in mind what cam would you recommend for this setup, a custom grind is gonna be a little too pricey for me. I have a comp xe268h cam but I have a feeling that may be a little small, I was going to use it on the 318.

    Thanks, Carson
    (Also I’m still young and I’m learning so I’m sorry if any of my info is wrong or doesn’t make sense)
     
  2. QuickDart360

    QuickDart360 Well-Known Member

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    Use the 280/474 mopar cam not too big or small. Or the next size up or two from thw 268 comp but go wirh lunati voodoo instead. Also Howard's cam has interesting grinds.
     
  3. j par

    j par Well-hung Member

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    I guess I'll have to say it..
    Rear gear ratio? Automatic transmission? What kind of torque converter? What kind of driving Style? Weekend blast? daily driver, drag strip only?
    Engines are stupid Pistons going up and down dancing to the tune of the cam... Choose Wisely.
    I called Oregon cam grinding and talk to a professional who grinds them and uses them. $79 to have my Cam reground and I think $60 or something to have lifters touched up. Anyways I don't think in my opinion you should be playing the stroker game if you can't afford $150 for a cam and lifters that suits your needs. My-2
     
  4. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member

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    I built a 360 based 417 in 1999. I used stone stock 340 J heads un-ported and un-touched. 1.88 and 1.60 valves. I used the MP 340 replacement camshaft, and even ran stock early 340 manifolds. Stock 71 340 intake with a worked over Thermoquad. In a 67 Dart GT with a 3.23 sure grip in an 8 3/4. I never got to take it to the track, but that bastid would get outta town. It had GOBS of bottom end torque RIGHT off the line and right to 6K.
     
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    • MOPAROFFICIAL

      MOPAROFFICIAL Well-Known Member

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      Cam's going to be really important if you plan on running heads that are somewhat of a cork or a big cork with no Port work... So with that said in order to make those heads kind of work decently "considering how much potential is in a 4" motor".. you're looking at some duration and probably a narrow LSA.
      Can you handle spending on gears and convertor? Doesnt sound like it... So you should just focus on 'this' and be happy with the torque....whatever cam you have, it's about 10 degrees duration too small...hence 278 degrees would be the least amount to run in this particular case if you're asking me.
      Even like rusty says... but I'd have one ground with about 8 to 10 degrees more duration.

      Something like .520 lift 278dur 107 lsa
      Check engle for off the shelf stuff, they're great 'go to' cams designed around your very heads 'stock iron' flow curve.
       
      Last edited: Dec 6, 2018 at 10:42 PM
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      • MOPAROFFICIAL

        MOPAROFFICIAL Well-Known Member

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        Tire fryer.
         
      • RustyRatRod

        RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member

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        It was! That was the only reason I built it that way and it would smokeum on command.
         
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        • rumblefish360

          rumblefish360 so close yet so far away

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          New to Mopar’s?
          How old are you?
          Have you read any books on the small block Mopar?
           
        • charles mill

          charles mill Wildman68 FABO Gold Member

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          527 lift 300 duration 850 set up dubble pumper . street strip ! 4spd 430. auto also. big sguitters . u will never regret. idles great and u will love on any skinny block. squiters r pump nozzles. u will love o nd good gas. w 10.5....
           
        • charles mill

          charles mill Wildman68 FABO Gold Member

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          use any head . all r near same . new eldlobrock r good to great . get in as a 8+ on cfm headers. then see.
           
        • rumblefish360

          rumblefish360 so close yet so far away

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          Whoa! What the heck are you saying?
          English brother, full sentences please, skip the one letter words!
           
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          • Greenmachine225

            Greenmachine225 Active Member

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            I wouldn’t say that I’m new to mopars, I’ve owned my Duster for about 4 years now and I’ve rebuilt all the suspension myself and done a ton of other work to the car. This is my first mopar engine build, I’ve built some Honda 4 bangers in school but not for something I’m going to drive. And I’m 18, I have an old mopar engine building magazine but I’ve gotten a lot of good info on here so anytime I have a question I always go here first to get a few different opinions and ideas.
             
          • 360duster

            360duster Well-Known Member

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            with stock heads and without proper modification you are pretty limited with valve lift - should be considered.

            For a pure streeter i´d choose sth. like this: comp 20-227-4 / Lunati 10200703.

            keep an eye on compression ratio, open chamber heads could give you trouble with smaller cams, i´d keep it below 10:1 for now. If you replace your heads you can adjust CR with a smaller chamber.

            Michael
             
          • 12many

            12many Well-Known Member

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            Build it to run safely on any gas stations premium pump gas. Don't try and get the most compression (study up on how to calculate your scr/dcr) or fall into the trap of bigger or more is better, where youre engine is on the fine line between running premium and having to mix fuels or mess with octane boosters. You dont want that scenario. Gas and go, keep it low! (but not too low!:))
             
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            • flyfish

              flyfish C8H18+N2O = :-D

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              Fixed it for ya :-D. In all seriousness, use the cam you have (xe268h), it will run fine for the street. When you decide to upgrade the heads then upgrade the cam.
               
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              • rumblefish360

                rumblefish360 so close yet so far away

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                Wow! Excellent! Well, first of all, welcome aboard.
                I would suggest how to hot rod your small block Mopar book for some good reading.

                On a 408 engine, small cam (your xe268h) and stock heads, I suggest a static compression ratio of 9.0-1 for a safe and reliable operation. The 650 carb is small. But it will be OK on top considering the small cam and stock heads. Might as well use it since you got it! OR, sell both carbs and roll the money over into a 750.

                A custom cam is only a few bucks more at worst. And I really mean only a few bucks. If at all. Asking a cam manufacture for a little more or less lift and/or duration is not a big deal for them. It will take a little time for them to grind the cam and send it to you. So don’t be afraid to ask them. Worst case, you turn them down. And to be honest about your cam, you could go up 10*’s on duration (@.050) and be just fine since the engine at 408 cubic inches can always use some more duration due to its size. It will make crazy amounts of torque.

                What trans and rear/gears do you have in the Duster?.
                 
              • furrystump

                furrystump Well-Known Member

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                Honestly I leave cam choice to people who do it for a living. I also go to someone that is recommended by people who run similar combinations as I do. With that said my advice is about the rest of the combo. First just as it was stated above what’s your goal? If your budget only allows a “little bit at a time build” you won’t be running perfectly match components until the final upgrades are made. If you build your shortblock to your end hp goals it is then easier to put together the top end a little bit at a time. The problem is a stock head is pretty limited in max lift and bigger valve springs choices. So do you throw a cam in it that will work within the limitations of you stock head choice knowing it is temporary? If it were mine and the 360 heads are mechanically sound I would get a “temp” cam to throw in it. Knowing that when I have gotten all the other things upgraded in the car/motor I will need to change cams, but at that point I can go to someone like Bullet and say this is what I have.......grind me a cam. It allows you to enjoy the car while still working towards your goal. The head probably won’t allow you to pick the cam your going to run “forever”. Say you think you are going to run an eddy rpm aluminum head and pick a cam for that, but when you get to the point of buying heads you go with one of the w’s.
                 
              • RustyRatRod

                RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. FABO Gold Member

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                Plenty of engines were built right from the factory whose cubinc inch displacement began with a 4 that used what most would consider crappy, poor flowing heads. Some of those "4" engines have been the most torque producing engines the factories have ever made.

                That said, if you are going to run the stock head, it surely wouldn't hurt the build for you to save up and have the heads professionally ported and larger valves installed. It would make a world of difference.

                But, if you cannot afford that in a reasonable a mount of time, simply be CAREFUL with your camshaft choice. With the heads left stock and as a "cork", you will need MILD camshaft choices. It will be easy to over cam, so keep that in mind. Cam it like it is a 360 and you will probably be very happy.
                 
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                • 72Dart6pack

                  72Dart6pack Harder Better Faster Stronger.

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                  1.6 Rockers & solid roller lifter are a must. You need to squeeze that last 1/10 of horse power out of that @ 7400 RPM.
                   
                • The Shoe

                  The Shoe Member

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                  I just installed a Lunati in a 408 with edelbrock heads to replace the thumper cam that was killing it. It had no vacuum (6 inches) and had to run with 3 1/2 turns of curb idle just to stay running, and forget about idling in gear. If you arent getting crazy with compression (over 10.5) then you could run this cam with either iron heads or edelbrock. It made over 14 inches of vacuum, even with a six pack setup on the 408.
                  Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam - Chrysler 273-360 268/276 - Lunati Power

                  70Cuda.jpg
                   
                • joes68340s

                  joes68340s Well-Known Member

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                  A friend recently ran a 408 with the comp 268 cam crappy x heads and manifolds tq carb, poor exhaust in a convertible Dart. With 3.91 gears knocking on 12s in the quarter.
                   
                • mopowers

                  mopowers Well-Known Member

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                  That cam is so close to what he already has with the xe268h, why have the kid spend extra cash on a whole new camshaft? For an 18 yr old kid, I'd just use what he's got- stock heads, 650 dp, xe268h cam. Keep compression in the low-mid 9's and that thing will roast the tires at will.

                  This reminds me of when I was a sr. in high school 18 yrs ago. My dad and I built a similar 408 with stock 360 heads that I had gasket matched by hand with a rat tail file, a 1850 holley, stock converter, etc. The thing was completely mismatched with random parts I already had, could get for free, or close to it. Still ran 12.70's with that bitch. And for an 18 yr old kid, you couldn't knock the smile off my face if you tried.
                   
                  Last edited: Dec 7, 2018 at 4:16 PM
                • fishmens67

                  fishmens67 Well-Known Member

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                  I'm not sure a 408 is a wise choice at this time. jmo A 360 build with your available parts and a GOOD valve job and gasket match fits the bill. Keep in mind, a new engine will find a weak link elsewhere in the drivetrain. been there done that.
                  It is best to build toward a stroker, things like exhaust, transmission, rear end, front suspension/chassis and list goes on.
                  sorry for the derail, but man it doesn't take much to burn up tires and tires aren't cheap.
                  Anyway, build and be safe.
                   
                • 12many

                  12many Well-Known Member

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                  How about running everything you have doing the 408, but trying your hand at porting the intake (gasket match and plenum roof from carb base to runners, etc) and do some porting on the heads. Some gasket matching, some short side work, open up the pushrod pinch, a little bowl work, some valve guide boss smoothing? All this stuff is entry level and will help, the tools needed not too costly, theres plenty of info online as well as some good books. I did some of this port work when I was 18-19 back when there were but a few books and magazine articles to gain knowledge from. You also have the benefit of the web, and forums like this to do research and with what you have, put together a stout motor. Anyone, and I bet especially old gear heads would be impressed with your efforts, especially someone your age!! Not very common I think:thumbsup:
                   
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                  • rumblefish360

                    rumblefish360 so close yet so far away

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                    Bingo, winner!
                    Keep compression low. 9.0-1 is excellent.
                    Ahhhhhh yes, the early days! Oh those early days being in a daze. Wasn’t it great when that slip cams in?!?! It doesn’t take much.
                    Your so not helping....
                    But most of know your joking.

                    Bingo, exactly, run what ya got.