408 Stroker Short Block Details: Blueprint Engines

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12many said:
Got the Enginequest Magnums w/62cc chambers. Drilled for LA intake.
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It looks like the magnum heads flow better than the LA heads, but are the LA intakes better? You can get 4 bbl intakes for the magnum heads so just wondering what the advantage to the LA intake would be?
 
dart_68 said:
It looks like the magnum heads flow better than the LA heads, but are the LA intakes better? You can get 4 bbl intakes for the magnum heads so just wondering what the advantage to the LA intake would be?
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More to choose from on the market for the LA pattern. Most Mag intakes for carbs are of the airgap variety
 
dart_68 said:
It looks like the magnum heads flow better than the LA heads, but are the LA intakes better? You can get 4 bbl intakes for the magnum heads so just wondering what the advantage to the LA intake would be?
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Mostly for better intake selection w/LA, and appearance of an LA, ended up leaning heavily on using a Thermoquad but without extra height of adapters to fit on square bore inakes, so of three choices: stock iron, performer and Weiand, I went with the Weiand Action+
 
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As to best flowing, I know what I bought ain't up there, that's ok, I did rework it a little to maybe help it some.
 
SLOPAR72 said:
I am curious though, how did you arrive at the Piston to Valve Clearance when you ordered the shortblock?
JW
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Talked to them to find out about the KB 416 Pistons used as is, the valve reliefs, the cam used on their long block. With head gasket, cam lift and timing events I should be ok, obviously will be checking it when the time comes. No problem to do additional relief cuts if I need to.
 
12many said:
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Talked to them to find out about the KB 416 Pistons used as is, the valve reliefs, the cam used on their long block. With head gasket, cam lift and timing events I should be ok, obviously will be checking it when the time comes. No problem to do additional relief cuts if I need to.
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Would you have to be careful with the balance if you had to cut extra reliefs?
 
diymirage said:
Would you have to be careful with the balance if you had to cut extra reliefs?
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Equal amounts off each piston and the amount likely needed won't affect anything, as I understand it. I'll cross that bridge if and when it appears. Hope I don't have to, won't be much fun.
 
12many said:
Equal amounts off each piston and the amount likely needed won't affect anything, as I understand it. I'll cross that bridge if and when it appears. Hope I don't have to, won't be much fun.
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What is your lift and duration again? I'm gonna guess you will have miles of clearance
 
Johnny Pace said:
What is your lift and duration again? I'm gonna guess you will have miles of clearance
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280° adv,232°@.050", w/1.6 rocker lift .517" on 106° LSA. I was told the long block cam specs, and that the same Piston valve reliefs are not deepened, can't recall the cam specs at moment but it
had much more duration/lift but not as tight lobes, likely non issue as those reliefs are 2.2" and .286 deep, but Ill be checking it all,
 
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12many said:
280° adv,232°@.050", w/1.6 rocker lift .517" on 106° LSA. I was told the long block cam specs, and that the same Piston valve reliefs are not deepened, can't recall the cam specs at moment but it
had much more duration/lift but not as tight lobes, likely non issue as those reliefs are 2.2" and .286 deep, but Ill be checking it all,
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Yep, I'm bettin miles.
 
The Blueprint Engines BPC4080 shortblock painted VHT Hemi orange, with some various parts finally seeing the light of day. Probably be a while before final assembly of it all, hope to post some clearances of this assembly etc asap for those that have been thinking about one of these, to those who have given thanks and likes etc, :thankyou::steering:

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Be sure to clearance your K member when running that pan.

Also, stick with the 4 piece oil pan gasket and use "The Right Stuff" when installing. Take my word for it.
 
Gamedog said:
Be sure to clearance your K member when running that pan.

Also, stick with the 4 piece oil pan gasket and use "The Right Stuff" when installing. Take my word for it.
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Damn, forgot to mention that this lump is going in an A100 van, nothing but open space between the engine mounts and frame rails other than the front axle and centerlink that clears everything by miles. Got the 4pc Milodon gasket set, will look into that sealant. Thanks!
 
I just got my BP dressed 408 home 2 days ago, so still unwrapping everything. So far, nothing I've seen causes me any concerns; rather it looks really good. They were out of their normal "Performance Products" intakes, so they built it with an Edelbrock Airgap no extra charge to me. They also painted it Orange for me no problem, except I just had to wait for a freshly built one.

The enclosed Dyno sheet looks genuine to me and tells me 458HP @ 5,500 and 503 TQ. Hoping like crazy to have the Duster back on the road sometime this summer (fall more like it) - I'll be sure and let everyone know how it runs then! Till then, I still need to send a few more of my wimpy Canadian dollars down south for more goodies.....

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Dusterdenovo said:
I just got my BP dressed 408 home 2 days ago, so still unwrapping everything. So far, nothing I've seen causes me any concerns; rather it looks really good. They were out of their normal "Performance Products" intakes, so they built it with an Edelbrock Airgap no extra charge to me. They also painted it Orange for me no problem, except I just had to wait for a freshly built one.

The enclosed Dyno sheet looks genuine to me and tells me 458HP @ 5,500 and 503 TQ. Hoping like crazy to have the Duster back on the road sometime this summer (fall more like it) - I'll be sure and let everyone know how it runs then! Till then, I still need to send a few more of my wimpy Canadian dollars down south for more goodies.....

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I have to admit, that is nice looking engine. I am not a Blueprint fan yet, would like to hear and see them run with no major issues. I might give them a chance when I need one. Keep us posted sir!
 
Just thought I'd mention that if one intends on using the MP windage tray there will be some shimming and cutting required in order to clear the rods after the pan is installed. The tray kit comes with the studs, bolts and 8 washers, you double up the washers so the tray mounts a little further down to clear the rods bolt/nuts likely for stroker applications. That works fine until you install the pan. The windage tray has rolled edges that curl outward so when you push the pan home the tray is squeezed, reducing clearance. I had a few rods that hit the tray so I ended up cutting the rolled edges off. When the pan is installed the tray still is squeezed and sits tight to the pan sides, but there is ample clearance for the rods. This issue "may" only apply to the Blueprint stroker as they use the cast Scat 4" crank with oem magnum rods w/arp bolts. Something to definitely consider if thinking about the MP windage tray.

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FYI
I had a 69 d-100 with a 318 and it had a front sump oil pan.
I still have the pan and pickup after all these years.
 
12many said:
Just thought I'd mention that if one intends on using the MP windage tray there will be some shimming and cutting required in order to clear the rods after the pan is installed. The tray kit comes with the studs, bolts and 8 washers, you double up the washers so the tray mounts a little further down to clear the rods bolt/nuts likely for stroker applications. That works fine until you install the pan. The windage tray has rolled edges that curl outward so when you push the pan home the tray is squeezed, reducing clearance. I had a few rods that hit the tray so I ended up cutting the rolled edges off. When the pan is installed the tray still is squeezed and sits tight to the pan sides, but there is ample clearance for the rods. This issue "may" only apply to the Blueprint stroker as they use the cast Scat 4" crank with oem magnum rods w/arp bolts. Something to definitely consider if thinking about the MP windage tray.

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I never thought of putting a radiator drain plug on the block. Great idea. I am dreading removing the motor mount on the pass. side to get at the drain
 
Howard1784 said:
I never thought of putting a radiator drain plug on the block. Great idea. I am dreading removing the motor mount on the pass. side to get at the drain
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Something I learned somewhere years ago, though I recall the petcocks seizing up after some time. This time I used antiseize on the threads so hopefully whenever the time comes to drain the block they actually work!
 
12many said:
Something I learned somewhere years ago, though I recall the petcocks seizing up after some time. This time I used antiseize on the threads so hopefully whenever the time comes to drain the block they actually work!
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Do you remember what size the thread was for the block? (I am changing over to Evans Cooling. Not doing this in the first place makes a HUGE mess)
 
Howard1784 said:
Do you remember what size the thread was for the block? (I am changing over to Evans Cooling. Not doing this in the first place makes a HUGE mess)
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Not off hand, got them from Advance Auto in radiator section, they had two versions, same threads, a short and longer version. These are the shorter ones, used some Teflon tape, antiseize, and had to slightly bend the little handle wings out as they screw in to open and the ends hit the block preventing fully open. Not much just a little tweak is all it takes
 
Real world experience, bought the dressed eddy aluminum headed version. Over the winter I finally pulled it apart to change pistons. 55,000 miles and 700 1/4 mile runs on it. During its life I popped 2 head gaskets small leaks towards the valley. Which resulted in running water through the bearings. Both head gaskets were my fault.

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