I have no good mopar builders in my area and the machine shops are priced so high it was cheaper for me to buy a stroker shortblock than to even do a mild build on a 360. Blueprint saved my *** on that one. So far it runs fin I even swapped the heads after first couple hundred miles and did an inspection. Still tip top.
408 Stroker Short Block Details: Blueprint Engines
- Thread starter 12many
- Start date
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Same boat for me, some shops like Fulton Competition for Chevy and some NASCAR level shops close by but Mopar is like a foreign word to most known shops near me and cost? Fuggedaboutit!!
moper
Well-Known Member
So
Really? I just differ in opinion of how to build something. I wish you luck with it.
Really? I just differ in opinion of how to build something. I wish you luck with it.
Wasn't specifically directed at you, just a little excessive generalized opinion on my part. Opinion?..... (yours are solid, you don't need me telling you that)
....hmm, all I can say is that I recall mentioning in the thread title and in some posts earlier it was about showing "details" for anyone that may be interested in one of these. And I believe I made "observations". Whether it is the best shortblock assembly for the money or the biggest heap of steaming dog **** ain't the point. Just showing some details.
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So, it's safe at .030 but not safe at .040? Bull fuckin squat rock!
Lets break this down. .040" is .010" more than .030". That equates to .005" PER side on a round bore. If it's unsafe at .040", it's unsafe at .030. .005" more thickness ain't gonna be appreciably stronger. I would bore that thing .060 and not think twice about it.
Looks like a good alternative to an overpriced crate motor. I would still inspect each and every molecule. But it looks nice.
Lets break this down. .040" is .010" more than .030". That equates to .005" PER side on a round bore. If it's unsafe at .040", it's unsafe at .030. .005" more thickness ain't gonna be appreciably stronger. I would bore that thing .060 and not think twice about it.
Looks like a good alternative to an overpriced crate motor. I would still inspect each and every molecule. But it looks nice.
I agree, I included some of your posts in the past regarding overbore along with others here and elsewhere as well as various Mopar books, even the old one Mopar Performance in factoring in what was sufficient.While Ida preferred a STD bore or up to .030 stroker, the parts, and all the machining, inspection and testing, delivered in a week for $2429 **** me I just couldn't find one but for the Blueprint!
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harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I Agree. Another way to look at it is that 0.005" is only about the thickness of 5 sheets of paper.
Looks like a home run, for the buy... I assembled a 408 LA,in 06-07..Hyper K.B.pistons, reworked factory rods, Scat 4:00 crank... Balanced.., KB 356 pistons milled, to match heads, decked to zero .. was 3500 plus, a decade ago.... Just..., a referential point...( and machine work, was SPOT ON..)
jeffnmo
Just another Mopar Maniac
12many, Back to you just showing some details, I think it looks great. Best of luck to you, Keep us updated with the install and post a video of that beast when you get it running.
Jeff
Jeff
I think it's worth it even if you plan on a complete tear down to make SURE everything is perfect.
Just the pile of parts disassembled is worth it.
Just the pile of parts disassembled is worth it.
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Definately worth it. I'm still tip-toeing around playing footsie with it, pulled #2/4 main caps as I have to install MP windage tray bolts , journals all looking nice, #3/4 rods same. Clevite 77 std on rods, Federal Mogul std on mains, all torqued to specs. Main and cap parting lines fresh machining as well as bore/big end cross hatch. Cam bearings oil feed holes lined up, bronze intermediate shaft bushing installed (MP shaft I'm using fits nice) Bolt holes clean.
Test fitting MP windage tray using 8 supplied belleville washer (2 per bolt for increased rod clearance) got a good 1/4" clear of tray.Some of the various paperwotk. This assembly lists required 360 93-97 external balancer, and a pre-magnum "weighted" 360 flexplate/flywheel (little puzzled on that as the only weighted ones I can find are magnum weighted) And short blocks come with a 12 month warranty, w/lots of weasel out room for them in the fine print!
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I have always heard that a sheet of paper was 1/1000".
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
I used to be into Corvettes. When I was stationed in Arkansas in 1987, I restored a 65 Roadster. It had a 350. I went to a local engine rebuilder and looked through a stack of rebuilt 327s. I found a correct year 327 with the correct casting number (3782870). They sold it to me for a reasonable price. While I was there, he told me about their operation. They did mass rebuild engines, but he said their quality was top notch. He said his guys were all highly skilled, and they used state of the art machines. The engine was excellent. If you think about it, new Dodge Challengers are Mass Produced on an assembly line. That doesn't make them bad.
stixx
Well-Known Member
True. It's all a question of definition. Assembly quality wasn't all that good back in the day with many engines just slapped together (across all brands I guess).
Now everything has made a leap in quality, also thanks to computerized equipment with people who know how to run it (exceptions apply of course!).
It sure looks that Blueprint is making heavy use of modern machinery as well... and while an engine can definitely be built to insane levels of craftsmanship this seems to be a really good bang for the buck.
Good luck 12many and keep the images coming!
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Think about this: Summit Racing sells these things, as well as Jegs. Do you think they want the hassle of customers not being happy, warranty claims, and returns? Probably not!
From all I'm seeing as I give this thing the old eagle eye is:. The block is completely clean in all areas, like a new casting on all surfaces that see oil (there is rust film in the water jacket passages but can't see any stuff that looks like it could flake off) all the bolt holes are clean and threads intact in good condition, lots of chamfering and counter-bored bolt holes where needed, new dowel pins for heads and bell housing, multiple paint dabs on the cap bolts and nuts likely verifying torque values etc, rods and caps numbered, not to mention on their website they state all the checking and machining steps taken on the block assemblies. Not an AutoZone rebuilt engine for sure!
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
From all I'm seeing as I give this thing the old eagle eye is:. The block is completely clean in all areas, like a new casting on all surfaces that see oil (there is rust film in the water jacket passages but can't see any stuff that looks like it could flake off) all the bolt holes are clean and threads intact in good condition, lots of chamfering and counter-bored bolt holes where needed, new dowel pins for heads and bell housing, multiple paint dabs on the cap bolts and nuts likely verifying torque values etc, rods and caps numbered, not to mention on their website they state all the checking and machining steps taken on the block assemblies. Not an AutoZone rebuilt engine for sure!
You can't measure anything with out micrometer and a dial bore gauge. You're eagle eye ain't even close.
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I have a 904 with a neutral converter, used 10239 b&m flexplate and then a professional products 90012 balancer. Works great.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
I'd have plasti gauged those mains ya had off just for the hell of it.
Is the warranty still good after pulling the caps off?
Hopefully it gives ya years of trouble free service.
Is the warranty still good after pulling the caps off?
Hopefully it gives ya years of trouble free service.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
You know, I was going to stay out of this but you keep dragging it up. So I'll help you out. I worked in production engine rebuilding shops. They make money three ways. They by parts in bulk and get a big break. They cut corners, especially on **** like balancing, finish honing, setting clearances and accurate machining. Third, they blow you up on the warranty.
So I'm not talking out of my ***. I'm TELLING you from experience. They can't do it any cheaper than any one else except by what I posted. I'd bet everything I have that your balance job is at least, AT LEAST 10-15 grams off. Will you know it? No. But I would have. I'd catch it on the balancer and I'd make it under 5 grams for a street car. That's how they make their money.
Oh yeah, they pay like ****, most people that work there aren't machinists and only do what they are told and have no idea why they do or don't do something. They don't know if it's right or wrong or what it should be.
So there you have it. From EXPERIENCE. You may get lucky. You may not.
BTW, bet they didn't use a torque plate on it either.
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