41TE minivan transmission question

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pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
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2002 minivan was starting to hunt for gear so i decided to change trans filter. First time in 140000 miles (we bought at 66k) but it still had rtv as gasket so think its oem filter.. anyway, the gasket said torque to 80 in/lb, then 120 in/lb in star pattern. Well i promptly stripped out a 10mm bolt blind thread, thank goodness it wasnt one that was a through hole into the case, and i wasnt even at 80. :eek:ops: Trans shop told me its more like 25 in/lb, about finger tight with a 1/2 more turn. Whos right? I never even reached 80 on any as i felt where it was was more than adequate as the rubber gasket was already squeezing out. I understand fsm may may call out oem silicone rtv spec, not aftermarket rubber gasket spec.:wack:

Good news is no leaks and no more hunting, bad news is i spilled entire bucket of old ATF+4 onto concrete driveway when van came down off ramps :banghead:
 
pishta said:
2002 minivan was starting to hunt for gear so i decided to change trans filter. First time in 140000 miles (we bought at 66k) but it still had rtv as gasket so think its oem filter.. anyway, the gasket said torque to 80 in/lb, then 120 in/lb in star pattern. Well i promptly stripped out a 10mm bolt blind thread, thank goodness it wasnt one that was a through hole into the case, and i wasnt even at 80. :eek:ops: Trans shop told me its more like 25 in/lb, about finger tight with a 1/2 more turn. Whos right? I never even reached 80 on any as i felt where it was was more than adequate as the rubber gasket was already squeezing out. I understand fsm may may call out oem silicone rtv spec, not aftermarket rubber gasket spec.:wack:

Good news is no leaks and no more hunting, bad news is i spilled entire bucket of old ATF+4 onto concrete driveway when van came down off ramps :banghead:
Click to expand...

I tighten the bolts until the gasket "just starts" to push out. I mean, watching real close, when the gasket barely starts to deform I stop. But you're in luck, simply tap the hole out to the next SAE size bolt since metric and SAE are kind of between each other when it comes to size. 10mm is .393" OD, a 7/16 X 20 SAE bolt is .437" OD, which requires a 25/64 tap drill. 25/64 equals .390". So if you drill the hole out to 25/64 it should cut almost nothing if there any threads left at all. But then you have plenty of material to tap the hole out to 7/16 X 20 . I've done this many times.... of course you can also use a heli-coil????


treblig
 
Ok, i may have found an oversight on my part: the blind holes are pretty shallow and the bolts are pretty short thread wise. When ChryCo used rtv on the original bolts, some ended up on the nose of about a third of those through bolts when they were removed. If i installed one of those unnaturally long rubber tipped bolts in a shallow blind hole, i may have only caught a thread or2 before bottoming out, pulling those threads right out at 50 in/lb torque. Ill have to look tonight pulling each one at a time with a bucket handy to clean any dick-nose off the bolts and hopefully find a few threads left in that hole.
 
pishta said:
Ok, i may have found an oversight on my part: the blind holes are pretty shallow and the bolts are pretty short thread wise. When ChryCo used rtv on the original bolts, some ended up on the nose of about a third of those through bolts when they were removed. If i installed one of those unnaturally long rubber tipped bolts in a shallow blind hole, i may have only caught a thread or2 before bottoming out, pulling those threads right out at 50 in/lb torque. Ill have to look tonight pulling each one at a time with a bucket handy to clean any dick-nose off the bolts and hopefully find a few threads left in that hole.
Click to expand...


Be careful...If you've stripped some of the threads out of the hole there may not be enough threads left to hold the torque required?? The rule of thumb is to have at least enough "full" threads as the diameter of the bolt. 10mm bolt you need 10 mm worth of "full" threads, 7/16 bolt needs at least 7/16" worth of threads....these are minimums!!

Treblig
 
well, I got jack now so anything's better than nuttin'
 
one more question. My fluid change didnt change my trans behavior. It sort of hunts between 3/4 for a second under moderate load but after its in OD its fine. Wife is all in a huff about it and wants to dump it for a newer one, but I dont want to get rid of it with an issue that maybe I can fix. could it be the solenoid pack, dirty screens? Nice and easy to unbolt and R&R right up on top.
 
pishta said:
one more question. My fluid change didnt change my trans behavior. It sort of hunts between 3/4 for a second under moderate load but after its in OD its fine. Wife is all in a huff about it and wants to dump it for a newer one, but I dont want to get rid of it with an issue that maybe I can fix. could it be the solenoid pack, dirty screens? Nice and easy to unbolt and R&R right up on top.
Click to expand...

Scan it and see if it is the solenoid. No sense buying an electronic item (usually non returnable item at most parts stores) if its not the issue. These transmissions did have solenoid issues though.
Also make sure the wiring connectors are clean and tight.
 
transman said:
Scan it and see if it is the solenoid. No sense buying an electronic item (usually non returnable item at most parts stores) if its not the issue. These transmissions did have solenoid issues though.
Also make sure the wiring connectors are clean and tight.
Click to expand...

Yea they did.
Fortunately they are not real expensive if you hunt around a little, and they are really easy to change being on the outside of the trans.

I agree on saving yourself some headaches and getting it scanned.
 
transman said:
Scan it and see if it is the solenoid. No sense buying an electronic item (usually non returnable item at most parts stores) if its not the issue. These transmissions did have solenoid issues though.
Also make sure the wiring connectors are clean and tight.
Click to expand...

Yea they did.
Fortunately they are not real expensive if you hunt around a little, and they are really easy to change being on the outside of the trans.

I agree on saving yourself some headaches and get it scanned.

On those bolts, I have used a longer bolt with a nut on it, so I could run the bolt all the way in and use the nut to do the actual tightening down.
This lets you use all of the threads in the hole, then works like a stud.
A little Mickey Mouse but it works well.
 
I would suggest a quick learn procedure done to relearn the cvi . Changing the fluid can change viscosity and cause shifting concerns. I have done quick learns on those trans and fixed shifting problems. Any good scan tool is capable of doing one.
 
how about a bad scan tool? All I have is a $59 "read and reset" one. Could I lift the batt - neg for 12 hours?
 
You will need a scan tool capable of the quick learn function.
It allows the module to relearn the clutch volume index.
We use a snap-on scanner to do that.
Any local auto shop near you should have a scan tool capable of that service, OEM scan tool not required.
 
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