428cid sb mopar mock up

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Brian Hafliger

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just some pics of a 4.125 stroke crank mockup on Ron Evans little stroker:
 

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Cool I'm thinking of this for one of my 340 blocks!! Details details please!!!
 
He couldda saved a lotta money and just built a 428 SCJ. lol
 
I just now saw this on IMM's page on Facebook. LOL Looks like there's some clearance required. It's going to be a beast though.
 
I've never seen a pic like that in the shot at BDC. A lot more skirt exposed then i'd suspect? But it's probably normal on the larger armed engines.

Just posting my initial thought.....I know it's cool. And thank you Brian for posting the pics. :thumbrig:


P.S. Hope you're new young man is doing well.
 
Cool I'm thinking of this for one of my 340 blocks!! Details details please!!!

I'll have the results in a week...4.065 x 4.125 using Ron's existing Edelbrock Mag. heads...I'm porting them along with a hyd. roller cam and rpm airgap intake...we'll try a few carbs on it. Compression will be 10:1.
It's really not much different than the 4" stuff we do, and he's using a tall rear gear so it should still run hard.
Thanks for all the other positive posts...been a while since I posted on here. I don't like the politics on some of these boards. A bit ridiculous to say the least.
And no this is not a plug for our shop...I'm sharing as a mopar enthusiast and nothing more.
Brian
 
I've never seen a pic like that in the shot at BDC. A lot more skirt exposed then i'd suspect? But it's probably normal on the larger armed engines.

Just posting my initial thought.....I know it's cool. And thank you Brian for posting the pics. :thumbrig:


P.S. Hope you're new young man is doing well.

Well swAgngin a long stroke...it's gonna pull it down much as it's goin up. lol
 
I'll have the results in a week...4.065 x 4.125 using Ron's existing Edelbrock Mag. heads...I'm porting them along with a hyd. roller cam and rpm airgap intake...we'll try a few carbs on it. Compression will be 10:1.
It's really not much different than the 4" stuff we do, and he's using a tall rear gear so it should still run hard.
Thanks for all the other positive posts...been a while since I posted on here. I don't like the politics on some of these boards. A bit ridiculous to say the least.
And no this is not a plug for our shop...I'm sharing as a mopar enthusiast and nothing more.
Brian

Thanks ,Brian....
 
Brian;

How many cc's are in the slugs?
Bob weight?
Any special prep to the 360 block?
 
Brian;

How many cc's are in the slugs?
Bob weight?
Any special prep to the 360 block?

-21.5cc
1875g
Same prep we do to all of our performance engines...some small oiling mods to the rear cap, open pump housing to 1/2 and blend into the cavity. Bore the block w/TQ plate and mains TQ'd.
Zero decked, hastings rings, clevite bearings, durabond perf. cam bearings...and one of our custom hyd. rollers.
This is a driver so it's not an all out effort...like the port work will only be our bracket job, not a full port. Should still make great power and very early compared to a 4" crank.
 
So 4.125 stroke with 6.123 Rods? Are those Compstar Rods? Whose pistons?

6.200 Molnar rods...Diamond pistons. I wish we were putting Indy heads on it but Ron's selling the car this is going in so we are just making it a "fun" build!
 
this month's Car Craft....pg 46....small inserted photo of Orange Duster....
 
Could you explain your procedure for clearance grinding and keeping bearings and oil passages clear of debris, ie how many times disassembled and cleaned.
 
Thanks Brian. This thing should pound out the torque. when your customer dyno'd the engine, please do so post the results.
 
Could you explain your procedure for clearance grinding and keeping bearings and oil passages clear of debris, ie how many times disassembled and cleaned.

We first bore the block with a TQ plate and the hardware the customer will be using with a head gasket of same thickness.
Then we hot tank the block. After hot tanking I nylon brush the bores with hot soapy water, rinse again then dry the block and apply a metal conditioner to the bores so they don't rust.
That's when we mock up the crank with #1 and #5 main bearing, and stick one rod/piston combo into all 4 corners for deck height. While doing this I mark the block if it needs clearancing.
Then we deck the block, clearance if necessary, do the oiling mods and tap the rest of the bolt holes.
Next we brush the oil galleys, then brush the lifter bores and hot tank the block a final time. After it comes out of the tank, we dry it off and clean the bores with laquer thinner until they are clean, then coat with oil and a lint free rag.
Install cam bearings and test fit cam. If we are line honing the block, that gets done before anything as well as sonic testing...should have started with those two at the beginning as we normally Mag the block after it's first hot tanking then sonic test then check the mains and line hone if necessary.

I should have more pics of balancing the crank, and short block assembly by Tuesday as we plan to have this finished by Friday next week.
Brian
 
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