440 engine build failure

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QKFSH67

QKFSH67

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Had the engine built first time and the cam and lifters went bad during break in. Really couldn't pin point the problem because there were several variables. So started over this winter and took it to ship and had block cleaned and all gone through again. Broke in the cam, and I hear lifter ticking. Lunati hydraulic flat tappet. Cylinder number 8, intake side lifter had a hole wore in the.bottom of it. This is the same one that was really bad after the first build. Assume possibly plugged oil galley or ????thoughts please
 
Yes zr 1 oil with Lucas break in additive. Had shop check springs cause that was one of the possibilities the first time, they told me I was good to go.
 
Ok so are the lifters spinning in the bore is there any friction are they moving freely? The only other thing i can think of is badly made cam and lifters.
 
Fisher said:
Ok so are the lifters spinning in the bore is there any friction are they moving freely? The only other thing i can think of is badly made cam and lifters.
Click to expand...
I used a magnet and a pick to get this lifter out....seemed fine. Last go I took all 16 out and they all seemed to fit fine.
 
Just a hydraulic flat tappet 226/234-.494/.513 lunati recommends valve spring 73100 I don’t know the seat pressure.
 
I used lunati in my build, seems to be ok so far, only 360+ mi. on the engine.
I`d say you got something going on like oiling issues.
Sorry your going through this, hope you get er solved.
 
same lifter hole.... the lifter is not spinning in the bore...the block is the problem...
 
How did you break in the cam? did the engine start instantly or did you crank it a lot? did you put break in grease on the cam or just the oil?
 
brian6pac said:
How did you break in the cam? did the engine start instantly or did you crank it a lot? did you put break in grease on the cam or just the oil?
Click to expand...
Mopar cam lube first time, lunati lube second time, engine fired rite up, 2500 rpm/20 minutes
 
I have broke in cams with double springs but the cams were under .600 lift and not major pressure and never had a problem. I know it recommended to remove the inner spring, but they always fire right off and 2500 rpm, I use Joe Gibbs grease and a good high zinc oil mostly diesel 1200 ppm zinc but they have dropped some zinc to 800 or so, the stuff is changing all the time.
 
1. The shop or assembler needs to verify each and every lifter turns during assembly. If it doesn't turn, swap them around until they all do. Skip this step and you're seriously flirting with disaster every time.
2. That is listed as a true dual spring. You MUST remove the inner springs for break in.
 
Should run a ball hone through first and make sure the lifters move freely when mock up assembling. Some bushed lifter bores in your future?
 
if the #8 exhaust lifter is getting oil, the #8 intake most likely is also. remove distrib and drive gear and spin oil pump and and see. hone that lifter bore a little and measure diameter, I always measure all 16 lifter bores. my 340 block was good, fired it up with 130# closed and 330# open with double springs 23 years and still going
 
Went out this morning and spun the oil pump, getting plenty of oil in that lifter bore. Thanks for the advice guys, I will look into the next step now......
 
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