451 motor

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hope this pic works..i got a nice part today for the stroker motor..keith black oil pump with the fittings..:prayer:

wrong pic will post in a min..damn computer lol
 
this should be it..lol :prayer:
 

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try to post pics for those :glasses7:
 

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try this again :D:D:D:D
 

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got the cam degree in today and got to check the piston to valve clearance and all is well...had a good time setting the gear drive up (never did 1 before) but bob got it worked out and ready to rock....gotta get head gaskets ordered and intake and oil pan and should be done and ready to find a home in some abody lol....
mike
 
yea we are getting there slow but show lol... gotta get on the ball now and get a nice body for it or cut my duster up ...always something to fig out....:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
I understand,completely. Parked my 72 Scamp for paint and body....in2004.(LOL)
 
Is that a flat tappet cam or a roller ? Either way you should be over 700HP
 
cam motion roller if i remember right (may have posted before in the 1 page ) its 713 lift after lash ....8)
 
Should make more than 700HP , the question will be how long before you potentially drive over the crank ...
 
and what makes you think that???:violent1::violent1:
 
I wouldn't worry about it at all. I've seen 440 cranks get beat to death, except they didn't die.
 
well we will see ..it should be fine ..it's filled and have rbre billet steel mains...so we will see..there is alot of guys that have done it and not a problem but i know there are those that have had problems..[-o<[-o<[-o<
 
Stock crank can live at those levels with arp bolts and billet caps. But I thought you were using an eagle forged crank? If so 4340 crank will survive no troubles.:blob:
 
yes eagle crank but seems johnrr knows something about this stuff most dont...from my reading and listing to people det. is what kills most of these blocks and mains from being beat to death...not to sure but love to hear more from those that have been there done that.......:toothy5:
 
I wasn't talking about the crank ..

nevermind , forget I said anything , can't wait to see how well it runs .
 
So then you were reffering to the block John? I could see it giving up if a cylinder were thin,IE; no sonic check and just run the block hoping it's fine? Or no hard block? I dont know if filling the block is needed either at this stage. Maybe in another 100 h.p or so? Lol,400 block can take a TON of power abuse..
 
do tell i am all ears ..i under stand your talking about the block..so please tell me so i know what to look for...the block is a rbre prep block with his mains.you know i hear all the time buy a race block ,buy a race block..but what about those guys that did buy the race block and put a window in it?????not trying to piss or start a piss match but i like to hear the reasons why when people say stuff like that..have you ran over a crank???? or have a stock block come apart??? all i ask is give me something other then never mind forget what i said......thats like opening a post just to piss on it...:D:D:D:D:D
 
Well,I dont think you will have any issues. Ray Barton has a sterling repututation. I think your in VERY GOOD hands.
 
needsaresto said:
So then you were reffering to the block John? I could see it giving up if a cylinder were thin,IE; no sonic check and just run the block hoping it's fine? Or no hard block? I dont know if filling the block is needed either at this stage. Maybe in another 100 h.p or so? Lol,400 block can take a TON of power abuse..
Click to expand...

Yes referring to the block , low decks can take more power it is said because of the shorter cylinders, but you will still have to deal with cap walk once you get over 600 hp on any of the blocks. Stay up on the tune , detonation will cause havoc on the bottom end.


earthmover said:
do tell i am all ears ..i under stand your talking about the block..so please tell me so i know what to look for...the block is a rbre prep block with his mains.you know i hear all the time buy a race block ,buy a race block..but what about those guys that did buy the race block and put a window in it?????not trying to piss or start a piss match but i like to hear the reasons why when people say stuff like that..have you ran over a crank???? or have a stock block come apart??? all i ask is give me something other then never mind forget what i said......thats like opening a post just to piss on it...:D:D:D:D:D
Click to expand...

Hopefully Barton sonic checked it and made sure it was a good core , a buddy of mine , RIP , had Barton do an 850HP 500" RB using a megablock , he had to take it back twice for the same problem for it to get repaired correctly .

I haven't driven over a crank , never built anything to drive with that much power , but have seen more than enough of those that have caught cracked mains to make me be leary of big power in stock blocks without the proper prep and even then it's no guarantee.

What casting number is the block ?
 
I use to run a 451 that made good power...mine was a RB block and I never got a season out of stock block...tried it two different years...mine always cracked in the upper main webbing into the cam bore and to the lower cylinders...bought a Mopar Mega block and ran the same combo for another 3 seasons with normal freshen ups, bearings, rings & etc...this was in the early 2000s to 2005 before diesel was $4 a gal. I raced 2-3 a week...but I think for a basic combination that makes big power and will live (with exception of the block) you can't beat a 4.375 bore x 3.75 stroke set up.
Now days though I think buying a cast iron block is not a good choice. If your spending that kind of money I think an Indy aluminum block is the way to go even though it's more money
 
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