5.9 Magnum help needed

-
slimjim

slimjim

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
512
Reaction score
293
Location
Vallejo, CA
Ok, I know it is not an A-body but I figured being a 360ci you guys could help me. So Im having a problem with my 96 Ram 1500. I was driving down the road when the engine died. I pulled over to the side of the road and tried to start it up again, no luck. I then pulled a spark plug and checked for spark. thumbs up, theres spark. So it must be fuel right? This truck has never been messed with or modified. It is completely stock. Is there a way I can test my fuel pump to see if it is the problem? Any idea? I really dont feel like pulling my tank (just filled up at 4.19/gal...ON BASE) just to install the new pump and have the truck still sitting there not running. The truck only has 74k miles on it. All I have now to get around is my Ninja but the girlfriend WILL NOT get on it so i need to fix the truck asap. Thanks
 
How many times ahve you tried to start it since?

Ever put in a distributor pickup plate?

Every post 70's Mopar I've owned has cooked one of those.

Will cause the engine to just die, then maybe start and maybe not.
 
Is there a way I can test my fuel pump to see if it is the problem?

Disconnect the fuel line at the carb put the fuel line in a can and turn the engine over. If the fuel pump is not working you will get zero gas.
 
Its fuel injected so I cant simply pull off the fuel line from the carb. the pump is located within the gas tank. (huge pain)
 
Turn the key on and listen for the fuel pump to kick on... it should run for a second or two as it pressurizes the fuel system before trying to start it. I could hear mine from the driver's seat with the door open in my 97 Ram. If you can't hear it from there, have a buddy turn the key on while you lay under the truck with your ear near the tank... Just make sure the park brake is set. If you do end up having to pull the tank, check out the brake lines along the frame rail behind the tank.... Lost my brakes in my driveway when they rusted thru....
 
With someone turning the key have some hit the bottom of the tank with a hammer. Sometimes if the pump goes out the hammer blows will make it kick on. If that works then replace the pump. Oh smack it with the side of the hammer not the normal strike face.
 
You can pull the fuel line off of the throttle body, it is held in with a yellow colored clip. Place the end in a cup and then pull the fuel pump relay and jump 12v to the pump power lead. I had the same thing happen to me twice. It was the fuel pump both times. And of course, just like your case, I had just filled up the tank.
 
Mine did that and it was a cam sensor if I remember correctly.
 
If you have spark, most likely fuel.
Sometimes the sock on the end of the pump will clog up.
If you hear the pump running you can put a small amount of air pressure like 15 psi with the gas cap off, and blow the sock off the end. Did this on my uncles 96 years ago and it is still running.
If it ends up being the pump it is easier to pull the bed loose and slide it back than dropping the tank.
 
Ok im going to the shop to do some more investigating. Ill post my results when I get back. Thanks everyone
 
chased a starting problem on a dakota for weeks...it was the pick up coil inside the distributor..I thought it was the cam sensor....
 
So I tinkered with the ram for about an hour or so yesterday. I checked to make sure all the sensors were still plugged in/connected which they were. I also the basics oil,coolant,etc just because its been awhile. I also had a friend attempt to start the truck while I laid underneth with my ear to the tank. It chocked and almost started but no cigar. I also did not hear the fuel pump prime so im going to go ahead and replace the pump and filter. Someone mentioned that it was easier to remove the bed instead of the tank is that really true? I have a motorcycle jack so I could use that to guide the tank down when I unbolt the straps. what do you guys think? bed or tank?
 
I dont know about that harley comment Salty Dog haha. Its unbelievable how many girls approach me whenever I ride. In fact, I had a waitress try to give me her number... while I was having lunch with my girlfriend. Its another reason why she hates it so much. So I'd say the Ninja looks pretty cool. Hitting the twisties and popping wheelies are a lot more fun on a street bike than a huge V-Twin Harley. (yes I know its dangerous) Anyways, Id like to get started on my truck tonight so should I just remove the tank or the bed?
 
Well the bed as far as I remember has 4 bolts and the filler tube and can be slid back with one or two ppl.The tank you have to get under and remove the straps and probably the vent lines so I would say(since I worked at a place that removed truck beds) once you remove the bed it gets easier every time.And no they were not pulling your leg about the bed.But to be honest niether is a choice I want to make any time soon.
 
Since you get spark, it isn't the crank or cam sensor (in distributor). Next time, carry a can of starter fluid like I do. If it runs on that you know you have a fuel delivery problem and not bad compression - broken timing belt or such (yours has a chain anyway). You have quick releases on your fuel lines to pop them off without a tool. However, they are often hard to remove if it has been a while and the plastic releases are often brittle and break, at least they do that to me in the junkyard when I rob Magnum parts.
 
My 93 Dakota had a bad solder joint on the PC board for the computer.
Took me forever to figure that one out.
If I flexed the board by putting pressure on the harness connector, a relay would click, and then it would run. Removing part of the case aloowed it to flex easier.
I ran it that way for about a year cause I couldn't stomach the $375 for a new computer since the temp fix was that easy. Was still like that when I traded it in on y 2000 Dak R/T.
 
Yopu need to run a ODB11 on it.That should tell you what it is or atleast pretty close.If the timing chain broke it wouldn't fire.It's probably the fuel pump but it could be a fuse or sensor going to the pump also.
I've been lurking on the old car sites too much lol.
Turn the key to on(not start)and off,on off then back to on.
Count the check engine light flashes
It will flash a set number of times then flash again for every code stored.
When it is done it will flash 5 times then 5 more times which is code 55 which is the end code.
If you get the codes post them and we can help you decode them.So again if it flashes 3 times then palses and flashes 4 times then palses then flashes 2 times then palses then flashes 4 times you will have codes 34 and 24.You see how that is working,it's alittle difficult to explain in text.
 
BillGrissom said:
Since you get spark, it isn't the crank or cam sensor (in distributor). Next time, carry a can of starter fluid like I do. If it runs on that you know you have a fuel delivery problem and not bad compression - broken timing belt or such (yours has a chain anyway). You have quick releases on your fuel lines to pop them off without a tool. However, they are often hard to remove if it has been a while and the plastic releases are often brittle and break, at least they do that to me in the junkyard when I rob Magnum parts.
Click to expand...



This seems like the single easiest test, since the ram will have a side inlet for the air intake, just disconnect the ribbed rubber pipe, spray some starting fluid (just a little) and if you still don't have it fire it eliminates the fuel delivery problem. This is a nice easy test you should do before removing the bed OR tank...
 
x2 to get the codes. Might not help, but sure can't hurt.
 
caferacerx said:
check the fuel pump emergency shut off, sometimes they trip for no reason,
Click to expand...

THIS and before you tear the truck apart throwing a fuel pump at it, see if you can get a manual/ wiring diagram. Check for pump power, and all vehicles I'm aware of usually have a PUMP RELAY which can go bad. Look around under the hood as well as inside for a pump relay and pump fuse.

I.E. CHECK FOR POWER at the pump.
 
I just blew an oil line for my ninja while driving on the freeway so now im a little screwed. Yes I know the oil line is easy but living miles away from the nearest parts store is quite a problem with no mode of transportation. I will try the starter fluid test in the morning and I will also attempt to read the code so that I can post it on here. I do have the manual for my truck. Its about 3 inches thick but if I have to dig through it I will. Thank all of you for chimming in and helping out.
 
Alright so I tried the code trick but I didnt get anything. It didnt blink at all. I also listened for the fuel pump to prime again and sure enough... it did. Even though the fuel pump primed it wouldnt start. Theres a fuel pressure valve on the drivers side fuel rail and I also checked there to see if I was getting fuel to tyhe engine... well, I am. So Ive eliminated 2 points in the triangle. I have spark and I have fuel. I only have 74k miles on the truck so I should still have good compression in each of the cylinders. The only thing that I can think of would be the timing chain. Could it break or fall off? The truck died as I was driving at 25 mph. Couldnt the timing chain have popped off or broke during that time? It would just fall to the bottom of the cover? Im pretty beat down this week. I have my barracuda, ram, and ninja yet ALL of them are out of comission now. With 23 units im burnt. Any suggestions?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top