6.4 Hemi SRV versus windshield wiper motor.

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modtopcuda

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Just wondering what people are using for a windshield wiper motor. The factory 6.4 intake SRV takes the same room as the bottom bolt for the factory WWM.
Thank you!

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Do a search. I want to say there have been guys using Dodge Neon wiper motors relocated to inside behind the dash.
 
408 swinger said:
Do a search. I want to say there have been guys using Dodge Neon wiper motors relocated to inside behind the dash.
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I did a search and only found one. His engine sits a bit lower than mine. I had to cut off the bottom stud.
It is weird how engines are sitting so different from car to car. I also saw someone said they did not need to modify the trans tunnel in their 67 Barracuda convertible. Mine is completely torn apart and the transmission is still the lowest part of the car.
 
Yeah, these cars had quite the "tolerance" back in the day.
 
408 swinger said:
Yeah, these cars had quite the "tolerance" back in the day.
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No, I think people are putting the engines in different position based on what aftermarket parts they have and what is easiest. I could have used the truck rear sump oil pan and put the engine 3” forward. Would have made fitment easier.
 
Seems like @76orangewagon relocated his wiper motor, but for different reasons. Not sure where in the build he did it, but here is the thread.

73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build

It’s a little late, but there is a lock out plate that deletes the solenoid. Mancini, maybe? Or you could run a 5.7 or 6.1 intake.

On my brother’s build, he went to the Edelbrock intake and still had to swap to a button head bolt in that location and a later wiper motor off a Diplomat or something.
 
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DionR said:
Seems like @76orangewagon relocated his wiper motor, but for different reasons. Not sure where in the build he did it, but here is the thread.

73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build

It’s a little late, but there is a lock out plate that deletes the solenoid. Mancini, maybe? Or you could run a 5.7 or 6.1 intake.

On my brother’s build, he went to the Edelbrock intake and still had to swap to a button head bolt in that location and a later wiper motor off a Diplomat or something.
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It is never too late. I really wanted to take advantage of all the new technology. That is half the reason these engines work so well. I did think about using a different intake. Maybe I should.
 
What engine mounts and transmission are you using?

As you pointed out, there are different conversion parts out there and not everyone is using the same engine mounts, transmissions or crossmember
 
72bluNblu said:
What engine mounts and transmission are you using?

As you pointed out, there are different conversion parts out there and not everyone is using the same engine mounts, transmissions or crossmember
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I am using a Gerst front end that was purchased for my 340. I am using the 8hp70 transmission. All mounts and transmission crossmember are custom.
 
modtopcuda said:
I am using a Gerst front end that was purchased for my 340. I am using the 8hp70 transmission. All mounts and transmission crossmember are custom.
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Well there you go. Going to be hard to compare that set up to any others out there. The intake clearance definitely come up, I’ve seen a more modern Jeep wiper motor used for some but your engine appears further back than some of the others I’ve seen, I don’t think the jeep one would clear the way you’ve got the bottom of that mount cut.

I don’t see how you can get that transmission in there without doing a new tunnel. I have a T56 in mine and even that required a new crossmember and a significant amount of tunnel work.

I’m assuming you’re using a factory ECU for that transmission?
 
72bluNblu said:
Not saying you did, just saying with all those custom parts you’re not going to be able to compare your engine location to folks that used other parts.

How old is that Gerst set up? Does it have the fabricated uprights that have failed?

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Yeah, it is pretty old. The same welded shock towers. Interesting! I will see about reinforcing that area. never ends. Don’t think this car will ever run again.
I am using the Mopar kit with the Sound German transmission kit.
 
modtopcuda said:
I

It is never too late. I really wanted to take advantage of all the new technology. That is half the reason these engines work so well. I did think about using a different intake. Maybe I should.
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Completely understand. It’s why I am using the Holley kit that moves the motor forward 1.75” and clears the SRV solenoid. Plus I can run the stock AC and a 90 degree oil filter adapter.

Best suggestion I have is to move the wiper under the dash, almost certain the thread I linked has ideas. I will try and find images tomorrow.

There is another guy that notched his firewall, he has videos on YT. I will try and find that as well tomorrow.

Other option is to cut your losses and dump the Gerst setup. Sell it to someone that thinks they need a coil over kit to make the car handle. Find a ‘73+ k-frame and buy mounts from Holley (they might even have a crossmember for the 8HP70) and then ring up Bergman Auto Craft and get a suspension kit.

Sorry, that sounded harsh. Didn’t mean it to be.
 
Tripped over this by accident. :D

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Apparently, this is an issue even on B bodies. FBBO member Richard Cranium is building a 6.4 '70 Charger and had to notch the firewall to fit the 6.4 active intake.
 
Here is the YT video I was thinking of. Towards the end he shows the notch in the firewall.

Looks like his motor ended up 1/2" plus lower than yours though.

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Here is what @76orangewagon did:

duster-006-jpg.jpg


Sounds like a '95 Ram 1500 wiper motor?

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DionR said:
Good info. Wonder if the OP could do something similar but relocate the missing stud?
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Thank you very much Dion. Lots of good info here. I really appreciate it.
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I wanted the engine to be in the same position as the small block. Threes is room to move forward with a different oil pan but moving weight forward does not seem like a good idea. I also needed the engine as high as possible because the 8hp70 hangs low.
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Glad to help.

Lot's of compromises in this stuff. If it was me, I would start with trying to build my own plate and relocate the missing stud. At least that way, you don't have to start over and you can still run the SRV solenoid.

I understand about moving the weight forward, it bothers me on my build too. But the option keeps me from having to do a bunch of work to run an AC pump and keeps the SRV solenoid, so I am going to just ignore it. It's not like I am competing in some road race series and I doubt I will be able to notice the difference. And it's not like my car will ever have a 50/50 weight distribution anyways.

If I was really struggling with the balance difference, I could always round up a C5 transaxle and shift the trans to the rear of the car.

:rofl:
 
modtopcuda said:
Just wondering what people are using for a windshield wiper motor. The factory 6.4 intake SRV takes the same room as the bottom bolt for the factory WWM.
Thank you!

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I used a 90s era Dakota wiper motor. Mine is mounted inside under the dash, but there's no reason you couldn't make an adapter plate and mount it on the outside. It was a very easy conversion. I even used the factory wiper switch. it took some figuring out, but I got it done. The bonus is the wipers actually move fast enough to help, unlike the stock 2 speed motor.
 
modtopcuda said:
I really had no choice with the parts I have. I could have used the truck pan and moved it forward.

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Just wow. I can't imagine a universal joint mating the stirring stick to the R&P as shown. Even if it did, the joint wouldn't last very long. I know ratrod like builds aren't engineered to go 100K miles anyway. I haven't seen everything modern technology and/or aftermarket offers today either.
I'll just say if it was mine, I would alter the rack mounting to rotate its input closer to inline and a little farther away from end of column.
Good luck with your build.
 
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