/6 turbo info

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dodge71demon

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Planing next winter project.Wanting to turbo my 225 slant
on the cheap.74 Scamp with OD manual tranny
clifford 4 barrel manifold want low rpm.Trying to save
from pecking here and there for info so hoping someone
has really good info on this
 
Planing next winter project.Wanting to turbo my 225 slant
on the cheap.74 Scamp with OD manual tranny
clifford 4 barrel manifold want low rpm.Trying to save
from pecking here and there for info so hoping someone
has really good info on this

My advice? Get in touch with Tom Wolfe (Shaker223 here in FABO) and tell him what you want to do.

He put a $250.00 junkyard Buick Grand National turbo with NO INTERCOOLER on a bone-stock 225 in his 1970 Dart Swinger (3,300 pounds) and it ran 12.95 @ 102mph in the quarter, with a 2.76 rear end.

He knows what he's doing, obviously.

That engine had the stock head and cam, with a points-type ignition, but ran through a stock 904 T-Flite automatic. I am not sure you could duplicate his performance with a manual transmission, but, you might.

Turbo /6s seem to like low-numerical gears in the differential, which is a boon, because it means your 2.76 final drive will not only work great on the highway, but at the drag strip, as well.

I can't vouch for the longivity of a 7.25" rear in a turbocharged /6 car, but if you keep the boost under 15 pounds (which you'd want to do, anyway, with stock pistons) that little rear end might live a long time, with an automatic.

That's not to say you'd HAVE to change over to a 904, but it might be beneficial.

Good luck; you realize, that 15 pounds of boost could double your engine's output, don't you? \\:D/
 
Calm down, bill. lol
 
Ok you just sold me on throwing a turbo on the 83 slant im putting in my 64 dart until I can rebuilt the 64 motor. :)
 
Ok you just sold me on throwing a turbo on the 83 slant im putting in my 64 dart until I can rebuilt the 64 motor. :)

What little I know about it, never having done it myself, here are some pertinent points I've learned in reading on this, and the Slant 6.org board:

The Buick turbo off the '86 and '87 Grand National and T-Type cars is a good match (size-wise) for a 225 /6. There may be better ones out there, but this one has an internal wastegate (less packaging complication) and the sizing is close. It will work pretty well, "as is."

Junkyard units, while not plentiful, are out there, and are usually pretty reasonable.

A 2bbl manifold is a good upgrade in induction, and there should be no trouble finding one of those.

The stock exhaust manifolds are prone to cracking, so I have seen recommendations that suggest attaching a bolt-on "elbow" to the manifold at its outlet and welding the turbo flange to that, instead of welding on the cast iron manifold, itself. This may cause packaging issues, so look at making that piece a close-coupled unit that will not create intereference issues with the innner fender panel.

For low-boost applications, it should be possible to run a boost-reference line from the carb hat to the back-side of the mechanical pump to keep the right amount of fuel flowing when the boost comes on. An upgraded mechanical pump might be a good idea, here...

Initial mechanical spark advance needs to be adjusted back to about 18 (!) deegrees TOTAL, at first, to see what the engine will tolerate before detonation rears its ugly head! Detonation under boost is.... undesirable.

The carb needs some massaging in terms of boost-related flow-thru fuel metering. I can't help you with that, but theere are several others here, who can.

The stock rear axle ratio and torque converter should work well for you.

Good luck, and let us know how this works for you!!!:pl:
 
Here is mine, researched it and priced it up so its all coming together:

1. CT26 Turbo out of a Supra 3.0 6 (not the devided plenum one out of the 4 bangers) 50 bucks off craigs (no one wants these, all upgrade to the larger stuff and these are left to sell off cheap) Get the oil lines and fittings too, youll need to pop a 1/2 hole into your pan or install a nipple above the oil level so it has a place to drain into, and T off an oil pressure line/port to feed the beast.

2. 2.25 tight radii Mandrel elbow to run off the stock exhaust, it gets your turbo up and out of the bay and allows you to move it a little forward to clear the motor mount. Flange each end and run a seperate support for the turbo off the block somewhere, it weighs about 15 lbs. 15 bucks from Summit and another $8 in flanges plus welding

3. 2bbl intake and Holley 350/500 2bbl carb (plug all holes leading to the air cleaner base) and about 61 jets. No PV mods needed if held to 7-8 psi (CT26 internal wastegate set to 8.6 I believe) PVs may be drilled out a little but that is up to you and your setup. probably the most expensive parts $60ish for the 2bbl and maybe another 40-80 for the carb?

4. Exhaust hooked up to the almost 3" CT26 flange (??$)

5. Carb hat and plumbing from the turbo (again 6 for a spun aluminum carb "protector" that you cut and attach the 4" pressure pipe to or a dedicated Spectre carb hat for 50 on Ebay.

6. INtercooler (optional salvage yard)

Stock trans, rear, everything. Turbos build torque, not shock parts like a stall convertor so things tend to stay together a little longer.

IF you got a super 6 already, shine the Holley carb, just put a hat on yours and go for it. Lots of setups. The boost referenced fuel pump is not mandatory if you run a good electric (I think , YMMV)
 
Heck, it's just such a good bang for your buck, I get excited... LOL!!!


Can't help myself...\\:D/ sorry...

I love seein you get worked up over it all. Great to see somebody that really loves the hobby.
 
Pishta wrote:

"2.25 tight radii Mandrel elbow to run off the stock exhaust, it gets your turbo up and out of the bay and allows you to move it a little forward to clear the motor mount."

Somebody (Mister Twister???) ought to be manufacturing these as a bolt-on, finished, part.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Stroker Scamp said, "Great to see somebody that really loves the hobby."

Not so much that, as I am just CHEAP! If you don't believe me, just ask Freddie (my racing partner!!!)
 
Let me know how well the 2bbl and ct26 work when you get done with setting your car up. If I can run a 2bbl it will save me alot of money and I may go ahead and turbo my car after all.
 
I've really been wanting to put a hair dryer on mine. Wonder how it would work with a weber 32/36, probably would have to jet it up.
 
Yeah pictures would be nice. I picked up a 2.2 turbo but when I was looking into sizing a turbo and everything the CT26 was the one I figured would be good for a slant considering that it would be a 3.0L turbo for a 3.7L motor. That way it would still spool fast but would provide more power than a 2.2. Please give me as much info about how that CT26 runs cause I might change the 2.2 up to a CT26



Jeff
 
What about the turbo off an 85 Mercedes Benz 300d? It's a 3.0 5 cylinder diesel.
 
That might be a K26 off that benz. I think the rule for diesel turbos is use one that is used on a larger turbo motor. Eg, and HX35 off a Cummins RAM is supposed to be a excellent turbo, but the wastegate is set way too high for our motors, like 21 psi! You would want maybe 12 max if you are running stock internals, as 15psi is about double the HP of a stocker. Welcome to the world of Turbo maps. Ray Hall Turbocharging has a widget that tells us to use a Garrett GT25 (NOT a T25, which is way different and way smaller) but youll have to really understand what those numbers mean and keep in mind the maps seem to use different flow units depending on who makes them. KKK maps are all in German! TRick is to put diagonal boost line as much in the middle "island" as possible, that gets you the best efficiency with the least heat. T04B is a good choice for starters, check out its map and go from there. smaller turbos have the island more toward the left of the graph (think flow from least left to most right) and then the huge turbos are way to the left and go up (boost capacity) which doesnt really help us unless you run forged pistons and K1 rods. About 1.5 BAR (7psi boost) or 21 psi TOTAL pressure (1ATM + 7 psi) is a good stock motor boost level. I was told no PV mods needed until over 8 on a Holley 350/500 or 600 4bbl. I think the 225 flows at about 240 cfm at 5000 RPM so do your conversions to get the meters cubed

Check this site out, http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/ excellent calculator if you know the variables: They show your combo as a red line on all the different turbo maps, for instance the K26 looks a little small as I suspected.

graph.php


then this one is almost perfect T04B H-3 , the horizontal line at the end is the wastegate limiting the boost.
graph.php


and finally a Buick GN turbo (TB0348, that 300 Benz might have a TB0360) using our baseline figures of 350 HP, 3.7l , 12:1 AFM, BSFC .43 (?) 1.7 I/C loss (?) 5500 redline 5000 peak HP, 3800 max boost and 2500 min boost, all other things sortof auto-populated but you get the idea. If anyone has hard numbers for a 225, chime in.
graph.php
 
Bill I'll be right over...you can expirement on mine...:)

Oh by the way since you are in Conway...have you seen the really cool Dentist office that is in town. DrDave...amazing 50-60s car inspired office.

Okay back to turbos.
 
Bill I'll be right over...you can expirement on mine...:)

Oh by the way since you are in Conway...have you seen the really cool Dentist office that is in town. DrDave...amazing 50-60s car inspired office.

Okay back to turbos.

No, I haven't, but I'd like to.

Where is it?
 
I've really been wanting to put a hair dryer on mine. Wonder how it would work with a weber 32/36, probably would have to jet it up.

The simpler (not necessarily better) route would be a 4-bbl, blow-thru modified Holley or Carter on an aluminum manifold from Offenhauser, Clifford, or Cain (out of production, Australian,) I think.

Maybe you're a Weber guru, and could deal with the proper fuel curve issues in a blown application with that carb, but if you're NOT, I would avoid that particular combination because of the difficulty in building an air box (bonnet) for that carb and getting it tuned properly for forced induction.

Lots easier, with an American 4-bbl, seems to me. But, that's just my opinion...:shaking2:
 
Yeah I already have the progressive weber though. I know you can Jet them up but I'm not a weber expert by any stretch of the imagination. Right now it has the rectangle K&N filter on it.

Here is the link to the orthodonist(sp) office with all the pictures. All I know is it's in Conway. This guy did some amazing work. So if you need your teeth straightened here you go.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=577234
 
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