620Hp small block

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TheTecher

TheTecher

Evan the jeeper.
Joined
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Location
Honesdale, PA
Hey all,
I just got the new issue of Car Craft and there is an article in there about building a 620 horse small block based off of a 360. Nothing looks too special just a .060" over bore and a 4" crank, making the 414 cube monster. It could be taken to 440 with the 4.25" crank. Id post a link but I cant find it on their web site.
 
call Brian at IMM in Indio Cal.....he is a member here.....
 
I believe that is one of Brian's builds. Why is everyone so afraid to make horsepower with a stock block? I believe they will take more than you think and besides, if it's a street engine you aren't operating at max horsepower for any appreciable length of time.
 
Guitar Jones said:
I believe that is one of Brian's builds. Why is everyone so afraid to make horsepower with a stock block? I believe they will take more than you think and besides, if it's a street engine you aren't operating at max horsepower for any appreciable length of time.
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cause if it does break your out the $10--15,000 bucks you got in to the engine. Put your money in to the right engine block that was design and built for a 4 inch stroke-600 hp output.

street engines can put lots of stress, more so then a 1/4 mile race engine. Heat, low rpm is the number one killer. race engines get shut right down, street engines get stuck in traffic, have to run cheap low octane fuel, they might not get fresh motor oil often enough--oil degrades over time, why changing the oil every three months regardless of the mileage used to be recommend
 
Guitar Jones said:
I believe that is one of Brian's builds. Why is everyone so afraid to make horsepower with a stock block? I believe they will take more than you think and besides, if it's a street engine you aren't operating at max horsepower for any appreciable length of time.
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dodge freak said:
cause if it does break your out the $10--15,000 bucks you got in to the engine. Put your money in to the right engine block that was design and built for a 4 inch stroke-600 hp output.

street engines can put lots of stress, more so then a 1/4 mile race engine. Heat, low rpm is the number one killer. race engines get shut right down, street engines get stuck in traffic, have to run cheap low octane fuel, they might not get fresh motor oil often enough--oil degrades over time, why changing the oil every three months regardless of the mileage used to be recommend
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I agree with the both of you gys, respectivly, perspectivly.

While making a monster of this level for the street is a seldom seen item in a small block, the big issue for a street engine is cooling.

Also, (HP numbers aside) a longer stroke engine is going to wear a bit faster than a short stroke engine. The slugs become shorter, side wall loading goes up. etc....

Lower octane and operating RPM are not a killer to an engine. I think gapless rings could help here as well as a E-vac on the headers to help keep the inside clean - er.
 
Great numbers for a SB , just read some of the specs , impressive . Sounds like a solid build that will last .
Congratulations Brian , you sure build some great engines , just wish you were closer , would defiantly have you build my next 340
 
That would be the motor Brian offered here for sale a couple of weeks ago if you check the threads I believe it was 10k well worth the price compared to 15k-20k for a 600+ horse hemi or big block IMHO
 
jerry6 said:
Great numbers for a SB , just read some of the specs , impressive . Sounds like a solid build that will last .
Congratulations Brian , you sure build some great engines , just wish you were closer , would defiantly have you build my next 340
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I ship all over, just ask Cannucky...I shipped his engine to Canada no problem. I'm shipping another to New Zealand in about 4 weeks.
 
And Brians motor went in one week then went 4500KM (2700miles) the next , great build Brian Thanks


PS thats 520hp/525tq for about 8k with the extras I wanted
 
Personally I think that with synthetic oil in it that motor will live. There no issues with "thinwall" blocks ,lol.. Thats just another mopar myth.
 
I remember an article awhile back about a .060" 360 that dyno'd right around 640 HP believe it or not, 13.1/13.5 compression/W9 heads, TR with twin Mighty demon carbs, the cam was around 650 lift, Block was prepped with all the good stuff, not to say this would make a good street engine, but they wanted to see just how much HP they could get out of a non-stroked 360 useing a stock block, pretty amazing i thought, I'm thinking the torque was just over 600 ft.lbs.
 
The question I have is why are they saying to run 20W-50 oil in these strokers? Isn't that oil a little thick to be getting where it needs to go?
 
If you run synthetic IMO you'll be fine. The lower number is for cold starts, higher for better protection (viscosity) under load hot. Best to really ask a pro builder.

What are you worried about fuel economy? LOL

Newer vehicles have gone to lower viscosity for fuel economy and tighter tolerances is the way I understand it. Foe example most cars today call for 10w (or less) 30. IMO it's mostly for fuel economy and they can run lighter oil for tighter (longevity) tolerances in the engines.

But What Do I Know!
 
Our intentions were never to take away from the awesome build up Brian at Imm Engines did for that Car Craft article. We consider Brian a friend and certainly did not mean to "nitpick" his engine. After re-reading the article and hearing from you guys we felt that the way the article was written was causing it to be perceived differently than we had intended. We aoplogize to all of you and to Brian for this. Our intent was simply to try and show a different way to build a similar horsepower engine. Thanks for bringing this to our intention and happy Mustang hunting.
 
HughesEngines said:
Our intentions were never to take away from the awesome build up Brian at Imm Engines did for that Car Craft article. We consider Brian a friend and certainly did not mean to "nitpick" his engine. After re-reading the article and hearing from you guys we felt that the way the article was written was causing it to be perceived differently than we had intended. We aoplogize to all of you and to Brian for this. Our intent was simply to try and show a different way to build a similar horsepower engine. Thanks for bringing this to our intention and happy Mustang hunting.
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There is a blank page from that link. Cool of Hughes to say that and be apart of this forum. I think alot of people on this site like hughes products also IMM's. It seems nowadays there are many ways to achieve big numbers with mopar small blocks. I am open to learn other avenues even though my motor/heads are from Brian.
 
i have a hughs stroker kit and love all 426 cubs worth and if you dont cheap out on a good cooling system you will be fine mine runs 185 out of town and 195 in dead trafic and im running 15\40 engin oil have in all my engins no problems.
 
MACKIN said:
If you run synthetic IMO you'll be fine. The lower number is for cold starts, higher for better protection (viscosity) under load hot. Best to really ask a pro builder.

What are you worried about fuel economy? LOL

Newer vehicles have gone to lower viscosity for fuel economy and tighter tolerances is the way I understand it. Foe example most cars today call for 10w (or less) 30. IMO it's mostly for fuel economy and they can run lighter oil for tighter (longevity) tolerances in the engines.

But What Do I Know!
Click to expand...

Lighter weight oil flows better when cold. Cold start ups are the hardest on an engine because there is no oil flowing to critical areas. The most important difference between synthetic and mineral oil to me is how they get their viscosity. A 10w30 mineral oil starts out as 10 weight and the additive package modifies it too 30 weight when hot. So when the additive pkg wears out it stays at 10 weight when hot. Synthetic 10w30 starts out as 30 weight and additives decrease it to 10 weight when it's cold. So even if the additive package wears out it's never too thin.

But even at 10 weight it's still too thick to properly flow through an engine at even 75 degrees. I'm using 5w20 synthetic in my race engine because I get it for free but I'd rather use a 0w.
 
MACKIN said:
If you run synthetic IMO you'll be fine. The lower number is for cold starts, higher for better protection (viscosity) under load hot. Best to really ask a pro builder.

What are you worried about fuel economy? LOL

Newer vehicles have gone to lower viscosity for fuel economy and tighter tolerances is the way I understand it. Foe example most cars today call for 10w (or less) 30. IMO it's mostly for fuel economy and they can run lighter oil for tighter (longevity) tolerances in the engines.

But What Do I Know!
Click to expand...

I will call up that builder you used for the stroker I bought from you and ask him what oil I should be using. My chebby PU truck just went over 220K miles on Mobil 1 5W-30. Thinner oil will also use less HP as it gets pumped through the clearances.

Fuel economy? What's that? My car made 6 passes last Friday night and still showed 1/2 on the 5 gallon tank.
 
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