63 Dart ignition issue

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Mineallmine

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I am in the process of reassembly of my 63 Dart and finally got to the point of firing it up for the first time in 3 years but ran into a slight issue.

When I start it starts and runs good but as soon as I release the key to run it shuts off. If I hold it just past run towards start but not enough to engage the starter it will stay running. I rang out the ignition and it seems fine. (Even had a spare to double check. Both work the same). With key on I have power at bat acc, and ign1. When I turn to run I have power at bat, acc, ign2 and start.

It worked fine before disassembly. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the ignition circuit? I have a service manual but it shows nothing for wiring. I am guessing either when I replaced the bulkhead connectors or block I put a wire in the wrong spot (was really careful so I'm doubtful on that) or something outside failed or got plugged in wrong.

I would like to trace back the wiring first to make sure it's all plugged in correctly before trying to test components or replacing.

Thanks
 
I read your build a few days ago, great job, when you replaced your wire harness you need to have ign 1 in run position and ing 2 in crank position if you are still using factory ballast resistor
 
That's what I have. I am currently still running the factory ballast resistor
 
Ok. I will have to check that when I get home. That was one of the items I was thinking to check.
 
Ign 1 should be blue to one side of ballast resistor and Ign 2 brown to other side of ballast resistor (same side goes to + of coil).
 
Ign 1 should be blue to one side of ballast resistor and Ign 2 brown to other side of ballast resistor (same side goes to + of coil).
I know my wiring to the ballast resistor is correct, that I didn't change. Will have to replace the resistor and see if that cures it.
 
Do you know what ohm rating the ballast resistor should be?
Most of the aftermarkt ones are 1.25 ohms. I've seen arguments over it, but mine runs fine with that. So I don't argue.
 
Most of the aftermarkt ones are 1.25 ohms. I've seen arguments over it, but mine runs fine with that. So I don't argue.
I found an MSD one that is .8 ohms. Is that closer to factory spec? Don't mind paying more if it's a quality part.
 
I found an MSD one that is .8 ohms. Is that closer to factory spec? Don't mind paying more if it's a quality part.
I'm not sure, honestly. There are two ways to measure and I'm not sure which is correct. The ballast itself and by the coil. I looked in my 64 Factory service manual and while it talks about the ballast resistor, it lists no specification.
 
If you look in the rear of section 8 in the service manual, and find the area with ignition specs, they show the OEM coil numbers and ballast. The ballast value will NOT be legitimate if you are running a different coil

You can download them free, at MyMopar.com. Does not have to be the exact year. The older manuals were arranged a bit different and may not have it obviously listed. I think 66 or 67 was the first year of the "improved" service manual layout.

What do you have for an ignition system?
 
If you look in the rear of section 8 in the service manual, and find the area with ignition specs, they show the OEM coil numbers and ballast. The ballast value will NOT be legitimate if you are running a different coil

You can download them free, at MyMopar.com. Does not have to be the exact year. The older manuals were arranged a bit different and may not have it obviously listed. I think 66 or 67 was the first year of the "improved" service manual layout.

What do you have for an ignition system?
Fully original system. Nothing changed.
 
So, downloaded the service manual for a 66 dart (earliest available) and printed off the wiring schematic. Found the ballast resistor says .5-.8ohm. I measured it and it reads 1ohm so it looks like it's good. I turned the key on and have no power to either side so I have some tracing to do.
 
Update: checked the ballast resistor... Good. Checked ignition.... Good. Checked for 12v at the blue wire at ballast with key on... Nothing. Finally sat down and looked at the 66 schematic I printed and started ringing out wires. I pulled the upper bullhead connector and ring out the blue wire to ballast... Good. Then I look at the bulkhead plug and what do I see... The wire in the plug in the lower slot and the wire in the bulkhead in the upper. Total bonehead move. Oh well... Live and learn right? Lol.

Switched the plug wire from bottom to top and plugged it back in and... Success!!! Car runs with key released. Still have to set the valves and fill coolant, rear diff and bleed the brakes. But moving in the right direction. Can't wait to move the car under it's own power soon
 
So, you previously had the bulkhead connector apart?
 
So, you previously had the bulkhead connector apart?
Yes, as I stated in my original post, I replaced the bulkhead block and connectors. This is an Arizona car so all of the plugs were dry and brittle so I pretty much replaced all of the connectors in the engine bay and wherever I could find a proper match. I thought I was careful putting it all back together but apparently I messed up
 
Wel LOL as the internet says, "easy fix"
It was my own fault...lol. I had myself convinced I was sure I was careful and "couldn't have" gotten it wrong. I knew deep down I should have checked that first but oh well.

Thanks to all for the help. It is appreciated.
 
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