63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)
- Thread starter Dne007
- Start date
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G'day maties
Now the dart will be on the 4 post lift for a while. I only put the hood on to fit up the hydraulic lift things~ however ran low on screws. The other pic, just need a link to connect the transmission to the rear axle. What are the odds of someone having a driveshaft. It's about 5-600 to have one made, guess I could shop around, but my 67 mustang's new driveshaft was 500 and that was a few years ago.
Now the dart will be on the 4 post lift for a while. I only put the hood on to fit up the hydraulic lift things~ however ran low on screws. The other pic, just need a link to connect the transmission to the rear axle. What are the odds of someone having a driveshaft. It's about 5-600 to have one made, guess I could shop around, but my 67 mustang's new driveshaft was 500 and that was a few years ago.
If it weren't for Mineallmine, I don't think I would have ever found these clips/retainers 
! Finally got the trim installed;)Just nice to have that out of the way! Back to the garage 
dantesparts.com
! Finally got the trim installed;)Just nice to have that out of the way! Back to the garage DMPS-9704-270271 Mopar 1967-69 Dodge Dart Rocker Molding Clips - dantesparts.com
Find DMPS-9704-270271 Mopar 1967-69 Dodge Dart 1971-73 Dodge Charger Rocker Molding Clips and other parts you need at dantesparts.com, Mullica Hill, NJ.
dantesparts.com
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Glad I could help. Took me forever to find clips that looked the same and would fit.If it weren't for Mineallmine, I don't think I would have ever found these clips/retainers
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What are You talkin' about??? This ain't a Ford, the starter relay is not the solenoid or 'a' solenoid, it's a relay.
Yes She needs to keep the relay to operate the starter solenoid, wherever She decides to mount it.
Sorry I haven't been posting much~
I went ahead yesterday and played with installing hydraulic hood props. They work well and installed one door panel~ oh, I did receive my new glass for the drivers side!!!
And I started installing the wiring harness~ going very sloooooow.
I went ahead yesterday and played with installing hydraulic hood props. They work well and installed one door panel~ oh, I did receive my new glass for the drivers side!!!
And I started installing the wiring harness~ going very sloooooow.
Looking good!
Gee those gas struts really clean up the firewall .
What Brand and part number are they ?
BTW the door card looks great .
Gee with the air filter housing you have you are 50% to cold air induction just bring the flex hose to that big hole in the radiator core support. Just fab a tube to accept the hose on the core support.
What Brand and part number are they ?
BTW the door card looks great .
Gee with the air filter housing you have you are 50% to cold air induction just bring the flex hose to that big hole in the radiator core support. Just fab a tube to accept the hose on the core support.
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Thank you Glen!! I hope your day at the beach was good! ;) The link below is what I used~ You know, it's amazing how much these hydraulic lifts push or whatever!
the orange is an existing hole which I tried first and I could barely bring the hood down.
then smart me, drilled the purple hole and made very little difference.
So, the yellow hole was there already and I thought, well, better to try it than drill another hole~ and it worked great, I can put the hood at any height and it stays put, but I don't know how these
struts work, or how long they last. So I need to figure a way to be able to remove the lower part when the fenders are in place when the struts go bad. The last color is just the pivot point, this would make a great physics question!
The sides are different, I am going to put a spacer in, I ordered a 1/2 spacer to bring the bottom out a tad. Don't really have to.
Drivers side
passenger side
the orange is an existing hole which I tried first and I could barely bring the hood down.
then smart me, drilled the purple hole and made very little difference.
So, the yellow hole was there already and I thought, well, better to try it than drill another hole~ and it worked great, I can put the hood at any height and it stays put, but I don't know how these
struts work, or how long they last. So I need to figure a way to be able to remove the lower part when the fenders are in place when the struts go bad. The last color is just the pivot point, this would make a great physics question!
The sides are different, I am going to put a spacer in, I ordered a 1/2 spacer to bring the bottom out a tad. Don't really have to.
Drivers side
passenger side
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Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
Looks like you will have easy access if you just pull the inner fender rear rock shield that you currently have installed here. I've had mine out a few times with the fenders installed and it isn't too big a chore to remove.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Now you're Struttin! Those worked great. On the bottom bracket bolt holes, did you install Rivnuts for the bolts to screw into? Does the stud in the top end clear the cowl ok? Man....those turned out nice!
Those worked great. On the bottom bracket bolt holes, did you install Rivnuts for the bolts to screw into? Does the stud in the top end clear the cowl ok? Man....those turned out nice!
mygasser
Well-Known Member
on the lower mount, if there's access to the nuts inside the car i'd just spot weld the bolt heads to the bracket so you can remove the struts in the future. bit fiddly to get the bolts in place when refitting but someone of your calibre would get that done easily.
neil.
neil.
Hi guys;) I bolted from the inside, I'll put some fender washers to strengthen the metal. Also on the outside side, I have some spacers coming to put the base of the strut out a 1/2", just trying to make a straighter shot to the upper mount. And as Mineallmine said, I could access the lower bolts through the inner fender. Since it's all new, I could just remove the lower screws just enough to get at the bolts. However, if someone did this on an older car, they may have to contend with the undercoating. 
I can only imagine how much force is put on the panel shown and the upper arm where the little ball is.
I can only imagine how much force is put on the panel shown and the upper arm where the little ball is.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
may be worth adding a piece of angle inside secured to the sound deadened area as well as to the 2 bolts. that's stop/help any splitting of the inner fender panel.
neil.
neil.
Darn, ran into snag JD mentioned this and it is a problem, so that's on the backburner for my brain to work on.
see the next pic
looks neat with the fender on, but I took it right back off when done thinkin
I haven't done it yet, but this push on thing unscrews, so I'll take it off in a bit and stare at it. Maybe if I could put the ball thing in the recessed part, that would offer enough clearance clarence!
In the other meantime, I want most the headlight/turn/park wires to be ran out of site and this was the best way I could figure it out. I also ran an electric fan wire just in case and even an extra wire for the What if thing.
not shown, but I covered the existing holes on top of the inner fenders, have yet to finish those yet. I'll just tuck these wires out of place until the front end is back on.
JD mentioned this and it is a problem, so that's on the backburner for my brain to work on.see the next pic
looks neat with the fender on, but I took it right back off when done thinkin
I haven't done it yet, but this push on thing unscrews, so I'll take it off in a bit and stare at it. Maybe if I could put the ball thing in the recessed part, that would offer enough clearance clarence!
In the other meantime, I want most the headlight/turn/park wires to be ran out of site and this was the best way I could figure it out. I also ran an electric fan wire just in case and even an extra wire for the What if thing.
not shown, but I covered the existing holes on top of the inner fenders, have yet to finish those yet. I'll just tuck these wires out of place until the front end is back on.
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mygasser
Well-Known Member
i do like a neat and tidy engine bay, that could be my ocd though
neil.
neil.
Finally got the parts I needed to connect the hydraulics to my clutch slave cylinder. I should be able to test this out tomorrow~ crossing my fingers. Gary will be gone most the day~ just have to figure to bleed it is like brakes?
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I had to bleed the hydro clutch line on my Fast & Furious car (Honda Civic) a while back. I finally had success with a Mighty Vac type bleeder that I got at Northern Tool or Harbor Freight. I tried it first like I bleed brakes....rubber hose into a Yoo Hoo bottle half full of brake fluid, listening for the bubbles to stop. The reservoir on the Honduh is about the size of Mamaws sewing thimble, so it kept running out after 2 or 3 pumps. I worked the Mighty Vac thing with my left hand while slowly pouring brake fluid into the reservoir with my right hand. Got it first try doing it that way.
Finally got this thing working~ just need to get some hardened bolts and also bolt from behind the slave cylinder. Plus I have new spacers for the slave cylinder.
I was all by myself regarding bleeding the system, I was able to reach in through the steering column hole with my left arm and bleed with my right, took a while, then suddenly it firmed up!
Time for lunch~
I was all by myself regarding bleeding the system, I was able to reach in through the steering column hole with my left arm and bleed with my right, took a while, then suddenly it firmed up!
Time for lunch~
Very creative and kind contorted position to do , congratulations
Well it worked this time. But you’ll need help once the steering column is in but you know that .
You go girl
Well it worked this time. But you’ll need help once the steering column is in but you know that .
You go girl
My husband is using my computer for a job he’s working on, so I’m using my iPhone. I’ve been working on wiring, gas pedal/throttle, ordered the driveshaft and cooking while typing
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