Yes, that would be great! do you think a mini starter comes with its own plate? I have the belly cover/transmission cover
63 Dodge Dart, now let me see;)
- Thread starter Dne007
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Naw. It takes the same plate. I'll look and see what I have.
Ok I found the bottom plate for the bellhousing and a starter plate, but I have not found the vertical plate. I'll keep lookin.
This what I have ;)
Ok. You have the bottom piece then. You need the vertical piece and the starter plate.
When y'all get done searching, let me know if you need a pattern...
Didn't get much done, but I wanted the cylinder head to be accessible and easy to work on, brain over brawn;)
Still waiting on gaskets, studs n stuff
Still waiting on gaskets, studs n stuff
Whoa~ got some much needed parts to install my int/exh, the special gaskets somewhere amongst.
The studs came from badvert64
, the aluminum came from an ebay seller, the aluminum is a tad narrow, but should work ok. Maybe tomorrow I can get busy installing all of these parts and make some much needed progress;)
I was wondering if I install the int/exh on the head as I have it now, can I assemble the entire thing(head, int/exh) as an assembly? I have my mini crane to move it with little effort.
have to make dinner, be back;)
The studs came from badvert64
, the aluminum came from an ebay seller, the aluminum is a tad narrow, but should work ok. Maybe tomorrow I can get busy installing all of these parts and make some much needed progress;)I was wondering if I install the int/exh on the head as I have it now, can I assemble the entire thing(head, int/exh) as an assembly? I have my mini crane to move it with little effort.
have to make dinner, be back;)
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So nice to have all the parts
lowering the head on with my lift
Also lowing the int/exh into place meticulously with my lift
lowering the head on with my lift
Also lowing the int/exh into place meticulously with my lift
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Those new int/exh gaskets are wondeful!! My garage is getting roomier~ amazing how much room an engine can take up~ now waiting on the distributor, spark plug wires, carburetor, etc, still need to adjust the valves
Took me and my husband about 20 minutes to install the engine, only temporary. My shop gantry crane makes this work easy;) All this to make sure there is room for the mini-Sanden AC compressor to go where the original mopar alternator went. I hope to relocate the alternator with a smaller black 70 ampish just above the power steering pump. The AC compressor won't be here for another couple days, but I'll just leave the engine here for now. A new carburetor~ hm, I need to order; carb, spark plug wires,
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Love the color coordinated k frame! lol
I don't plan on using the original radiator, but I did clean it up and flushed it best I could and obviously painted it. There's an aluminum radiator that looks attractive;)
As for the air cleaner inlet/fresh air? I could run a large flexible stock looking hose to the radiator support, it's already there?
ok, enough for today~
As for the air cleaner inlet/fresh air? I could run a large flexible stock looking hose to the radiator support, it's already there?
ok, enough for today~
Just a little review
Wow, I worked today, getting the transmission in was a bit of a chore. I did it mainly to spy the transmission linkage, the shifter hump to identify location before welding in place.
Reverse, 1/2 clear, but 3/4th do not clear the floor board. Can the rods be bent to make clearance?
The middle of the 3/4 rod hit the floor board
The other direction for the heck of it
I jacked it, just the slack but made very little difference.
Reverse, 1/2 clear, but 3/4th do not clear the floor board. Can the rods be bent to make clearance?
The middle of the 3/4 rod hit the floor board
The other direction for the heck of it
I jacked it, just the slack but made very little difference.
trapster
Well-Known Member
I don't think it is supposed to be above that leave part. Actually I don't think that leave part is supposed to be there at all.
I was thinking that, but the "leave" part is not very thick even if I remove it, I was just worried it may weaken the torsion bar crossmember down below.
This was the other way, not that it made any difference. here it's not connected to the shifter
trapster
Well-Known Member
I see what you mean, Looks like it could survive a slight bend to give most of the clearance you need, I would still check 3rd gear.
www.forabodiesonly.com
I think the 3/4 should be mostly straight.
Early A833 4 speed linkage adjustment help
I've viewed the sticky video and the '65 FSM on adjusting the shift linkage rods. The video and the FSM only show the B body linkage (not the A which is different), but both require the use of a special tool to hold the Hurst shift levers at neutral. Later shifters use the alignment hole to...
www.forabodiesonly.com
I think the 3/4 should be mostly straight.
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trapster
Well-Known Member
leave the leave part.
It definitely needs more room. I think I'll just bend the one rod, but do I use heat, like cherry red, or cold bend? If cold bend, how do I do that other than run over with my tractor;)
Icetech
Well-Known Member
heat for sure
and it doesn't look like it will need much bend..
trapster
Well-Known Member
Is your engine tilting towards the drivers side.
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