65 Barracuda daily driver

[65barracudaLA]

I started fixing some of the leaks and I started with the valve cover and gasket. They don't make new valve covers for the hydraulic lifter slant 6s and mine is pretty beat up. I straightened out the areas around the bolt holes where the bolts had been overtightened with some moderate success. I also noted the washers were bent as well, so I straightened those, too. I also used a rubber gasket instead of the cork one, which I hope will help, but who knows... I'd love to replace the oil pan gasket, but I have to look up again how to. I think the trick was to unbolt the motor mounts and raise the engine just enough to get the pan out. Even worse I believe is the transmissions that leaks out of a bunch of places. Maybe I should just get it rebuilt like a transmission guy recommended right after I bought the car. He said it was toast and would only last a few more months before it was going to die. That was 9 years ago...

 

[Tadams]

I replied the transmission gasket on my dodge ram with a feldpro gasket. It said not to use sealer
Hasn't leaked in a year. Good luck

 

[65barracudaLA]

The rubber one is also made by Fel-Pro and I also didn't use a sealant. With the transmission it's not just the cover, it's the shifter cable and the speedo cable and the cooler lines that are leaking all over. I hope teflon tape might help with the cooler lines etc.

 

[65barracudaLA]

I bought a used original sway bar for my '65 Barracuda on ebay. I have LCA's with the tabs and I know where to find the links. Does anyone know where I can find this mounting bracket and bushing seen in the picture? All I have seen so far is for 1967 and up.

 

[65barracudaLA]

I finally got started on the A/C! Not that much progress, but I took the old heater box out.

I'm got a Vintage Air Slim Line evaporator that also has a built-in heater and defrost, so no need for the old heater box. That is hopefully going to allow me to push it back against the fire wall. I need to see how it fits now, but it's getting late.

I also installed the compressor mount. The instructions are pretty sparse, so it took a moment to figure that it bolts through 3 holes of the water pump and through one of the motor mount braces. I also figured out that I will need to re-route my fuel line in order to have room for the compressor...

A lot more work to do, but I'm glad I got started on it. It's hot out...

 

[Tadams]

That's awesome! Especially living in southern California. Hope it all comes together and works really well

 

[Tadams]

I bought a used original sway bar for my '65 Barracuda on ebay. I have LCA's with the tabs and I know where to find the links. Does anyone know where I can find this mounting bracket and bushing seen in the picture? All I have seen so far is for 1967 and up.

View attachment 1715193772

Have you gotten the sway bar hooked up yet?

 

[JDMopar]

When you move the gas line, try to keep it away from that front exhaust manifold runner. Vapor lock is a pain in the butt!

 

[65barracudaLA]

Have you gotten the sway bar hooked up yet?

No, I haven't. I still need to figure out the bushing/ mount.

 

[65barracudaLA]

When you move the gas line, try to keep it away from that front exhaust manifold runner. Vapor lock is a pain in the butt!

Yeah, that's the plan. I will probably run it all the way around the compressor.

 

[65barracudaLA]

Yesterday on the way back from the beach the odometer hit 55,555 miles. Unfortunately that does not tell you anything about this car. The speedo that was in the car when I bought it was broken. This one I bought on ebay. I don't even have a clue what the actual mileage could be.

 

[65barracudaLA]

Recently while grocery shopping:

Also, I re-routed the fuel line, like it was recommended on slantsix.org. The problem is, it's getting pretty hot. I wrapped some insulation around it and it's helping, but I might have to put a metal plate between the exhaust manifold and the fuel line or route it differently.

Anyways, it all started with the still unfinished A/C install. The instructions say to remove the pulley and replace it with theirs. That's where I ran into some issues. I would like to use the double pulley (plus balancer) that's already there. I did try to install theirs, but: I couldn't get the bolt off. How do you do that with the engine turning? That's also when I noticed that there is noticeable play in the timing chain. The car runs fine, so I never checked it, but I guess it's possible that the timing could be better. Gas mileage is pretty bad for a slant. This is a 1983 hydraulic lifter engine, some things are a bit different. I heard most slants don't ever have the bolt. Again, how are you supposed to get that stupid bolt off? Any tips for installing a timing chain?

 

[65barracudaLA]

I went to my friend's ranch out in the desert over the weekend and had some fun out there with the Barracuda...

Her ranch also happens to be next to Huell Howser's Volcano House:

 

[sireland67]

Drive it, way cheaper than a new car.

 

[66fyssh]

I love the way you drive the wheels off your car!! Your car loves it too!

 

[65barracudaLA]

Thanks! Haha, I rather drive it any chance I get than showing it off at a car show... This was the most fun I had driving it so far. Not pictured is us going through a shallow portion of a small lake. Well, you can guess from the mud all over the car in the last picture. It stalled (and started back up) each of three times after we went through- I guess it's time to put the splash shields back under the fenders...

 

[itchy666]

@Tadams, congrats on your retirement and good luck with your restoration.

In general I'm happy that it's not in primer anymore. I want to be reasonable with what I'm going to ask them to fix. Some of the flaws are so whack, that they drive me mad, though... If you want to know, I paid $1,200 for a single stage paint job, including remaining body work and door jambs etc. It seemed like a great deal and they painted a friend's Valiant for the same money and it looked great. But here's the thing: I told them, that if they find that more bodywork needed to be done than included in the price, I would have paid for it (within reason). Oh well, lesson learned.

This car means a lot to me, though. I'm not planning on getting another car or project. It's my only car and daily driver and I want to keep it for the rest of my life. I know many before me have said that and quickly changed their minds, but this is important to me.

I just painted my mates 66 Mustang, the paint and clear were $1200 Australian, my tradeand CASH price, 300 to hire an oven as well!

 

[itchy666]

I paid that paint shop to color sand the car. That didn't really help very much. Most disappointing and awful people. I want to try it myself and I'm looking for some recommendations what sandpaper, blocks and polish I should use. I'm going to start with the hood and if I fail, I will just repaint it myself.

I would try 3M 1500 or 2000 wet andry paper (we use up to 3000 and 5000) and buy a GOOD quality cutting compound from a Auto paint supplier and buff it up with an el cheapo electric buff, if that doesnt work scuff the whole car with 1500 and Clearcoat it
Steve

 

[65barracudaLA]

@itchy666 I'm gonna try 800 grit on a 24 inch sanding block carefully to take the worst off. Some have actually recommended to spray a thin layer of black paint to see when you are getting to the low points. And then 1200, 1500, 2000, possibly 3000 and then cut & buff. I'll start with the hood. It's the worst part of the car and two areas already need to be repainted anyways. So if I fail, I'll just have it repainted. But... First I need to replace the timing chain, replace the oil pan gasket, swap in a different pulley for the A/C, possibly get an electric fan or a new radiator w/ electric fan etc.... Then finish the A/C install, because right now I don't even have a working heater/ defroster anymore. It doesn't get that cold here, but the windows do get foggy. Oh, also I need to replace the bearings and seals in the rear end, replace the shoes and drums in the rear. And fix the leaking transmission...

 

[sireland67]

I would not sand with 800 grit, start with 1200 and rinse with lots of water while sanding.

 

[66fyssh]

Always something to keep you busy!

I'm planning to rebuild my front suspension and new leaf springs this winter.

 

[Rustyfish]

@itchy666 I'm gonna try 800 grit on a 24 inch sanding block carefully to take the worst off. Some have actually recommended to spray a thin layer of black paint to see when you are getting to the low points. And then 1200, 1500, 2000, possibly 3000 and then cut & buff. I'll start with the hood. It's the worst part of the car and two areas already need to be repainted anyways. So if I fail, I'll just have it repainted. But... First I need to replace the timing chain, replace the oil pan gasket, swap in a different pulley for the A/C, possibly get an electric fan or a new radiator w/ electric fan etc.... Then finish the A/C install, because right now I don't even have a working heater/ defroster anymore. It doesn't get that cold here, but the windows do get foggy. Oh, also I need to replace the bearings and seals in the rear end, replace the shoes and drums in the rear. And fix the leaking transmission...

Get a large plastic bottle to use for your water source while color sanding and put a few drops of dish soap in it. It will act as a lubricant for the sandpaper and help cut. Start with 1000 or 1200.

 

[65barracudaLA]

Just replaced the completely worn out timing chain, water pump, swapped in a different pulley for the A/C compressor, a new radiator, painted some stuff, replaced the leaking oil pan gasket, fired her up at around 10pm and the next day I drove 145 miles to my friend's ranch in the desert for Friendsgiving and today again 145 miles back to L.A.. She runs so great now -even though the timing still needs to be adjusted. I was just too lazy to put the bumper back on, but I kinda like the look!

 

[barbee6043]

COOL!

 

[Tadams]

Really nice