65 Valiant Old school Dragcar

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Ansen used to make a blow proof bellhousing for the small block. They were gold like a Milodon oil pan. I had a brand new one but somebody stole it.
 
your car looks great,,cant wait to seee it complete,,why didnt you just put another rod in the 340 ?? that a lakewood scatter shield,,,ansen;s arent shaped like that one,,
 
The 340 also have worn out valveguides and I planing to put a roller in it so thats the reason why I put the 318 in. Besides, the 318 makes more power :twisted:

The 318 recipe

.030 over Kb 167 pistons
eagle ESP H-beam rods
Stock forged crank
Mopar P4120655 mech bumpstick( 296deg .577 lift )
P4120094 .024-.028 Head gaskets
Edelbrock 60779 63cc heads
Harland Sharp roller rockers 1.5 ratio
TTI headers
Weiand Tunnel ram intake with 650 holleys vacuum secondaries(runs like a champ) O:)
 
How did you support the car while it was on it's side? Did you use a rotissiere?hope I spelled that right..

How did you get it on it's side?
 
I used two wide engine stands and made two "adapters" that was bolted in between the bumper holes and the engine stands, then you just turn it over to the side.
 
Well the story goes on. The next step was to mock up all the bodyparts before paint. I had a hard time finding good rustfree fenders and doors so I had to get fiberglass parts instead. Hood, Fenders, Front Bumper, Doors, Sheet metal between the feders under the bumper(can`t the english word for it), are all made of lightweigth 2 layer fiberglass.
Here are some Weigths defference

PART STOCK FIBERGLASS

Metal under bumper 11lbs 3.3lbs

Door (empty) 35.2lbs 11.4lbs

Front Bumper 14.3lbs 2.6lbs

Fender (very rusty) 20+-5lbs 7.4lbs

Hood 56.5lbs 17.6lbs

Here some mock up pics

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There is a guy up north in Sweden that runs a business. He got all the these molds for mopar cars but the quality SUCKS. I also had to wait 8 months for the parts and the parts all had to be cut and sanded at all the edges. If you look closely at the bumper you can see how hairy all the parts was. The doors was like corkscrews and the fenders was all wrinkeld up. Next time I do it my self!
 
it`s gone be nice too finally take a (many) beer in the back seat this summer :drinkers::toothy7:
or shall i drive:burnout:
 
The pictures below was taken about a year ago when the car was at the paint shop. I had some time to work on the dashboard.

Before
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after
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Got the car back from paint :-D
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Some pics from the trunk with stock trunk mat(mat is now flat!) and a summit fuelcell. only have to mount the battery tray to make the trunk ready.

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under the floor.
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Okey! I just finished the fuel system the other day and most of the electrical system. I really start to see the light in the tunnel now! O:)

1/2" Aluminum tubing should do it
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My cousin(67Dartsweden) came up with a great idea, how about use the gas cap for a battery switch. So I took a Taylor battery switch and threaded the axel to 1/4" unc and screwed on the cap.
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Cool trick with the gas cap! That's a nice kustom trick going with the old school drag car theme and all...I did it!
 
love the gas cap switch,,very KOOL lets see a pic of the under side of the cap please,,,
 
To cool!! You are making some great moves on your old school!!
Fuel switch location!!! Like fstfish66, Lets take a peek.
 
very kool,if you look on E BAY i see some of the same type gas caps only with a chrome handle,, BUT VERY KOOL,,LOOKS GREAT
 
Thanks. I got the cap from a junkyard and it was written " dodge Dart 68" on it, does anybody know if that is correct? It would be nice with an original Plymouth 65 gas cap. :-k
 
those caps with the black and or chrome plastic " S " looking handle are after market ,at least here in the states,the factory caps have a straight handle both come painted or chrome,the difference in 62-66 and then 67 and up, the inner part that locks the cap to the fill tube is very different,the out cap appears the same, so since you have gutted the part that makes it different, you can get any A body side gas cap for stock apperance,but the handle is not bolted on like yours is,you would have to weld that nut on to the back of the cap, the factory handle is held on by 2 small screws on the end of thr handle,,not bolted to the center like yours is,,, hope this helps
"
 
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