66 Dart u joint

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Dragnut

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i am in need of a rear u joint for my 66 Dart 270... I have already ordered 3 of them and got the wrong one every time. The original was a Detroit style joint but it is more narrow than the others ... 2.129 I.D. between the ears of the shaft... anybody have a part number ?
 
Trying to help here but I am having trouble finding specs. I came up with Dana/Spicer 5789x or Moog 245 or 246 (greasable or non greasable) Without dimensions I don't know whether they are correct though.
 
Here's a couple of sources/links and a chart (which shows PNs for switching from an original Detroit/ball & trunnions setup to a slip yoke/u-joint setup. See the Spicer number and maybe you can cross reference for exact dimensions. GL.

moog-ujoint-packagedeal860 - U Joint Package - Dodge Dart 66-67 made by MOOG

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=1966+Dodge+Dart+U+Joint

image.jpg
 
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Spicer 5-3228x or 5-789x (perm greased) should be correct for the early A-bodies. What U-joint did you order?
A few cross ref numbers....
Neapco 1-6301
Rockwell/Meritor CP1306X
Borg Warner 114-266
Chrysler 858001
Chrysler 1752624
Chrysler 2298908
Chrysler 2298909
Chrysler 3780250
Chrysler 4364400
Chrysler 4384514
Rockwell/Meritor CP72625-3
Rockwell/Meritor CP72625-4
Rockwell/Meritor CP726251-2
Mopar D-134A
Mopar D-207
Precision 315G
Precision 320
Precision RL7260
Spicer 5-789X (lifetime)
 
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The post is confusing on several issues. Photos always help. As mentioned, 1966 cars did not have the front ball & trunnion U-joint (originally Detroit brand). But, you are asking about the rear U-joint, which I think would be the same PN as 1963-65 cars and 67+. What probably matters is the rear-end. Is it 7.25"?

For those needing a 64-65 B&T front U-joint, I posted a list of PN's several times, similar to post #5. I don't have at hand, but Search works. You can occasionally score some on ebay, if patient. I am set for life on those.
 
Spicer 5-3228x or 5-789x (perm greased) should be correct for the early A-bodies. What U-joint did you order?
A few cross ref numbers....
Neapco 1-6301
Rockwell/Meritor CP1306X
Borg Warner 114-266
Chrysler 858001
Chrysler 1752624
Chrysler 2298908
Chrysler 2298909
Chrysler 3780250
Chrysler 4364400
Chrysler 4384514
Rockwell/Meritor CP72625-3
Rockwell/Meritor CP72625-4
Rockwell/Meritor CP726251-2
Mopar D-134A
Mopar D-207
Precision 315G
Precision 320
Precision RL7260
Spicer 5-789X (lifetime)
Yup...I have the Spicer 5-789X ...it does not fit...the C-clips wont go in..
 
The post is confusing on several issues. Photos always help. As mentioned, 1966 cars did not have the front ball & trunnion U-joint (originally Detroit brand). But, you are asking about the rear U-joint, which I think would be the same PN as 1963-65 cars and 67+. What probably matters is the rear-end. Is it 7.25"?

For those needing a 64-65 B&T front U-joint, I posted a list of PN's several times, similar to post #5. I don't have at hand, but Search works. You can occasionally score some on ebay, if patient. I am set for life on those.
I need the rear joint....it is the stock rear..it is not an 8 3/4 so its probably the 7.25
 
Trying to help here but I am having trouble finding specs. I came up with Dana/Spicer 5789x or Moog 245 or 246 (greasable or non greasable) Without dimensions I don't know whether they are correct though.
I will try to post some pics after the holiday....
 
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
I'm having a similar problem replacing my 7260 ujoints. I bought the Spicer 789 solid ujoints that are supposed to be the heavy duty replacement for the Spicer 1306. Well, I cant get them installed. Here's why. You cant get them to go in so you can place the caps. The top pic is the 1306 joint it slips in easily. The middle pic is the 789, it wont.

image.jpeg
 
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So here is a picture of the ujoint and the end of the shaft...it is the ujoint they call for but clearly wont fit...I also posted a picture of the joints I have purchased and they all don't fit...

jointdart2.jpg


jointdart3.jpg
 
it may be my eyes (if so ignore me) but in post 10 the ear that has the dirt on it looks bent in slightly. if so the joint won't fit anyway even if it's the right one and will cause it to wear out faster.
 
I run into this all the time,and some joints are tougher than others, but new joints seem to always be very snug w/the clip install. I agree with 66Dvert, that yoke looks squeezed.
I usually take the time to clean the inside of the yoke well,dress any dinks in the bore from knocking them apart, & run a flat file across the surface. I can't imagine You have a 1yr.
only joint almost nobody is aware of, it's not as hard as some think to deform/tweak the yoke ends.
 
Post #10 is not my shaft....Post #11 is the shaft im talking about...the joint is clearly to big to fit..the C clip notches would be covered by the yoke end, but this is the one that is called for.
 
OK, there are only two std. joints for cars I'm aware of, the small one is 2.125" inside to inside,and the large one is 2.625" inside to inside. You would appear to have the std.
smaller joint w/the 2.129" you stated. Another common problem I run into is wrong parts in the right box, but three times in a row? I dunno, but this shouldn't be causing you
this much grief getting a common as dirt u-joint. I do know that some parts house people are a**holes, and have re-delivered parts to me I've personally sent back as defective/
damaged or boxed wrong, so I started writing it in permanent marker on the box B4 returning them. I'm holding a Precision#246 super strength, measures 2.010" inner groove
face to inner, 2.220 outer groove face to outer.I'm holding a Spicer 5-1306-1X, 2.010" & 2.173" on that, both kits have clips .058" thick. Good luck, and let us know if this helps.
 
OK, there are only two std. joints for cars I'm aware of, the small one is 2.125" inside to inside,and the large one is 2.625" inside to inside. You would appear to have the std.
smaller joint w/the 2.129" you stated. Another common problem I run into is wrong parts in the right box, but three times in a row? I dunno, but this shouldn't be causing you
this much grief getting a common as dirt u-joint. I do know that some parts house people are a**holes, and have re-delivered parts to me I've personally sent back as defective/
damaged or boxed wrong, so I started writing it in permanent marker on the box B4 returning them. I'm holding a Precision#246 super strength, measures 2.010" inner groove
face to inner, 2.220 outer groove face to outer.I'm holding a Spicer 5-1306-1X, 2.010" & 2.173" on that, both kits have clips .058" thick. Good luck, and let us know if this helps.
Thanks for the info...I found the right one..its Spicer 5-789X
it replaced the 5-1306-1X....
 
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