67 Barracuda Disc Brakes

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512Stroker

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I have a 67 Barracuda with stock factory manual front disc brakes which dont work well on a good day. Anyone have any suggestion how to get more bite with this setup?
Rear brakes are all new, new master cylinder, front calipers appear to be in very good condition.
Brake pedal is very hard. Front disc pads are like new but from unknown manufacture.
Thanks in advance
 
I have a 67 Barracuda with stock factory manual front disc brakes which dont work well on a good day. Anyone have any suggestion how to get more bite with this setup?
Rear brakes are all new, new master cylinder, front calipers appear to be in very good condition.
Brake pedal is very hard. Front disc pads are like new but from unknown manufacture.
Thanks in advance
Is the rear drums? Do you have an adjustable proportioning valve?
 
The younger folks who are accustom to power brake assist ( standard equipment on everything today ) might not be happy with the pedal effort manual brakes require. My grand daughter complains about the manual drum brakes on my 67 although there is nothing wrong with the brakes.
A smaller bore master cylinder will help a little bit. Power brake booster master setup and adjustable proportion valves are available too.
 
Hawk racing pads. Make sure the pistons are not stuck. Use a 15/16 master cylinder.
Thanks for the info, I am not sure which Master it has it was on the car when I got it. Are there any markings on the master that will indicate the piston size?
 
The younger folks who are accustom to power brake assist ( standard equipment on everything today ) might not be happy with the pedal effort manual brakes require. My grand daughter complains about the manual drum brakes on my 67 although there is nothing wrong with the brakes.
A smaller bore master cylinder will help a little bit. Power brake booster master setup and adjustable proportion valves are available too.
Well I'm not young and cut my teeth with manual brakes, good info, thanks.
 
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Hawk racing pads. Make sure the pistons are not stuck.

I agree and this is what I'd check first. There are 8 pistons split between the front 2 calipers. If this car sits for awhile between drives, it is possible some of the pistons are stuck in their bores due to corrosion.

FWIW, I use synthetic DOT5 brake fluid in my old cars which doesn't absorb moisture like regular fluid.
 
When they work right (and I have a booster), you will need at east 235s on the front to not skid them on a heavy application.

You said hard pedal, but all 8 pistons could be stuck solid and you'd have a hard pedal, and, because of the way the M/C works, you wouldn't have any back brakes either.

(Do you still have the old pads? They could help in the diagnostics. OOps, I got that wrong,ignore this.).
Check your pads for unusual wear; the wear should be equal from front to back,and top to bottom, and side to side; both sides the same.

I prefer the progressive feel of a power assisted 7/8 m/c. You can dial in the boost somewhat with the adjustable pushrod.

If you have 275s or larger on the rear, with 235s or larger on the front, I found rear proportioning not required with 10" drums back there. So I gutted a 1973 Combination valve,leaving it's safety switch alone, and used it for a handy distribution block.
The service manual shows a metering block for the KH system. The Duster donor-car didn't have one, so I didn't install one. and,I never missed it.
When I put 295s on, I up-sized the rear wheel cylinders.
 
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i went to my local scrap yard and took one from(booster) from a mazda 3 and fit it in , if the rest is fine
boost is the way to go
 
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