67 Dart Remote Mirror Demystified

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Dana67Dart

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble
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Bought a mirror to see if it would be possible to modify it to be a remote right hand mirror. Probably not!

Mirror, (glass removed)
IMG_20200508_212354.jpg


Disassembled

IMG_20200508_205812.jpg

IMG_20200508_205828.jpg


Back of mirror holder (note the colors)
IMG_20200508_205834.jpg

Cables pass thru the trim
IMG_20200508_205853.jpg


Cables pass thru the mount (there is a plastic tube around the cables, don't know the reason)
IMG_20200508_205908.jpg


Screw that holds the mirror trim to the mount and holds the mirror actuator (part the glass mirror is glued to) into the mirror trim
IMG_20200508_205930.jpg


Stud and nut that attach the assy to the door
IMG_20200508_205925.jpg


Screw that holds the front of the mirror to the door
IMG_20200508_205953.jpg

Interior joystick
IMG_20200508_210026.jpg


Cont....
 
Part 2...
Spring metal retainer to align the joystick
IMG_20200508_205938.jpg


Retainer trim nut
IMG_20200508_205945.jpg


When reassembling the mirror, note the alignment tabs in the mirror head
IMG_20200508_210125.jpg


While holding the mirror actuator, mirror trim and mirror mount install the screw
IMG_20200508_210213.jpg

IMG_20200508_210230.jpg


Install the stud ( this one has a buggered thread near the machined end I don't know if it is intentional, the stud seems to be hardened as I could not file it down, or my HF files were crappy)

IMG_20200508_211540.jpg

The spring retainer goes on one way, and keys the joystick so moving the stick up makes the mirror tip up

IMG_20200508_211806.jpg


Trim ring / nut (note joystick is in the up position)
IMG_20200508_211847.jpg

Mirror in the full up position
IMG_20200508_211907.jpg
 
Last edited:
Part 3...

Some notes...

The actuator where the glass attaches to has 3 holes that the cables go thru. There is a cable crimp on each one. This mirror had one if the crimps that pulled thru the aluminum mirror glass mount. I was able to get it back thru. You could probably make a small horse shoe clip to put under the crimp to prevent the crimp from pulling thru.
The scratched areas are where there was 4 small dollops of glass adhesive.

A question about a mirror not being tight is probably the crimps no longer being tight to the aluminum mirror holder
IMG_20200508_211729.jpg


There is a spring in the joystick which if it was too loose it too might not allow the mirror to stay in position
IMG_20200508_210026.jpg


I noticed that when the cables are laid out straight, the actuator head was excessively loose, curving the cables caused it to tighten up nicely.

The last thing I noticed was the actuator head had "R" "Y" "G" stamped on it, this corelated with the cable colors.
 
Last edited:
Part 3...

Some notes...

The actuator where the glass attaches to has 3 holes that the cables go thru. There is a cable crimp on each one. This mirror had one if the crimps that pulled thru the aluminum mirror glass mount. I was able to get it back thru. You could probably make a small horse shoe clip to put under the crimp to prevent the crimp from pulling thru.

View attachment 1715524580
The scratched areas are where there was 4 small dollops of glass adhesive.

A question about a mirror not being tight is probably the crimps no longer being tight to the aluminum mirror holder

There is a spring in the joystick which if it was too loose it too might not allow the mirror to stay in positionView attachment 1715524582

I noticed that when the cables are laid out straight, the actuator head was excessively loose, curving the cables caused it to tighten up nicely.

The last thing I noticed was the actuator head had "R" "Y" "G" stamped on it, this corelated with the cable colors.

I tore one apart and put it back together and sold it , couldnt find any longer cables to use in it that I could rig. , and didnt want to spend a lot of time on it back when building my car , had too much to do .
 
The right mirror from a right hand drive car is remote, but with a similar short cable and shallow bowl. To have the correct deep bowl right hand mirror casting for left hand drive car along with long cable assembly requires parts from 3 mirrors. My cable assembly came from a 87 Gran Fury. The controller is in a second ignition switch bezel beside my ignition switch.

DeMonDIN  02.JPG
 
Part 3...

Some notes...

The actuator where the glass attaches to has 3 holes that the cables go thru. There is a cable crimp on each one. This mirror had one if the crimps that pulled thru the aluminum mirror glass mount. I was able to get it back thru. You could probably make a small horse shoe clip to put under the crimp to prevent the crimp from pulling thru.
The scratched areas are where there was 4 small dollops of glass adhesive.

A question about a mirror not being tight is probably the crimps no longer being tight to the aluminum mirror holder
View attachment 1715524580

There is a spring in the joystick which if it was too loose it too might not allow the mirror to stay in position
View attachment 1715524582

I noticed that when the cables are laid out straight, the actuator head was excessively loose, curving the cables caused it to tighten up nicely.

The last thing I noticed was the actuator head had "R" "Y" "G" stamped on it, this corelated with the cable colors.
My mirror joystick was bent and there was a gap between the mushroom head on top of the spring and the bottom of the joy stick. Mirror wiggled and fell down after adjusting. You can’t take it apart without destroying it, but you can twist the screw-like cables clockwise to lower and tighten. This lessened the gap, but not enough to create friction. I added a twist tie to stretch the wires (inside door) and place friction on the wires. Seems to work, will see how long it lasts. Bent the joystick straight by hand.

048841C9-DF54-470D-977D-86578B23B572.jpeg
 
First car I had with a remote was my '70 RR. I thought that was IT back then. No fancy electrics, no gears and motors, just some cables. Of course they can rust LOL
 
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