Matts440
Well-Known Member
I've out there a few times this year. Are you with the treasure valley mopar group?
67 twin turbo dart
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Junior340
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No group this year. I don't know much about the groups.
Matts440
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Oh okay, yeah I'm not in one either just go out and have fun right now. But atleast I figured out my misfire the boot on cylinder #2 melted through both the wrap on the headers and the spark plug protector. Which is odd since they are both the gold higher end heat resistant.
Junior340
Well-Known Member
Nice find though
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
That was causing backfires?
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Only thing I can think of since it was running perfectly prior to removing the engine, plus removed the valve covers must have broke the connection inside the spark plug cause when I pulled the boot off the coil the the tip of the wire that goes into it came off causing the cylinder to not fire correctly cause I could tell it wasn't on all cylinders causing the misfire cause the engine would run and would back fire a little here and there, ordered a new set already
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well that wasn't it, got the new plug wire installed and still doing the same backfire. I'm at a total loss, didnt even mess with the inside. I even replaced the cam sensor just incase, but still the same. Plug gap to small at .020? Maybe its allowing a hot enough spark. All coils test fine through the controller box and fires in correlation with the letters in the computer same with the injectors. Odd just pulling the motor out for something completely different and a whole issue that wasn't a issue before. Tried to do a trigger log to check the signal from both but for some reason can seem it get that to work.
Weird problem. Have you tried putting a timing light on it? Is it possible that the cam sensor is off a little? Don’t recall how your handling that and i honestly don’t even recall how I set up mine it’s been so long.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I've set it up the way diyautotune says too and worked before. Ive put cylinder 1 on compression to tdc, back it off till the #1 tooth and the cam sensor is to be in the middle of the half moon which is was set. I'll set it again.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I have, send the signal to each one in order from A-H, going to test again with a cold wire and a plug from before, same plug too
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Only grounds I took of are from the engine, one from the front of the block to chassis ground and the TB ground to battery, both are in place and tight. Triple checked all the grounds at the main block all of those are tight which also all go to battery ground. Made sure I didnt pinch any wires on the bell housing.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
The composite trigger did show a long strand of signal loss in red not sure what that's happening and could be the issue, would this be the ECU ?
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I'll give that a shot tonight when I get back home. Thank you, this whole thing is just making me scratch my head in confusion
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
You’ll figure it out. Just keep plugging away at it.
So mine started backfiring and running crazy, found my cherry crank sensor wasn't tight. My fault of course. So as I was cruising down the road it was bouncing around and getting hit by the wheel, cut a nice groove into it.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I did check that and its gapped to .012 I believe
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I messaged diyautotune and sent them the screen shot of the composite trigger log and they said theres a issue with the crank sensor or wheel. Checked wiring from connector to the ECU had good resistance on both wires, I know the power wire seems 12v which it should. Ohm checked the crank sensor from power to white which should be signal had 5 ohms and from signal to ground was OL and power to ground OL. Took off the sensor and looks like the wheel did make a little contact. It's a holley hall effect sensor, was gapped .011 where per holley calls to be .040-.080 on the gap. The shop/dyno I had the car at long ago set the gap. Must have just been to tight all this time and running hard made contact and cause the sensor to not work properly I guess. Thoughts?
Could have been a issue all along why it would be all over the place on tuning if the signal was getting lost while running. Not sure, I know I have never dropped the sensor, and always set it down nice when I removed it.
Could have been a issue all along why it would be all over the place on tuning if the signal was getting lost while running. Not sure, I know I have never dropped the sensor, and always set it down nice when I removed it.
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Tight gaps normally aren't an issue. If that's a 36-1 or similar pattern, try to catch the loss of sync in a tooth log. Also, it's better to send support the raw CSV file. That screenshot is zoomed out enough that you can see that a loss of sync has happened, but it's too indistinct to tell why it happened.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
well got the new Holley sensor in and gapped to .050 per their range or .040-.080. Did a few composite logs and sync loss is better but now will start and run a few seconds then die, start again and die. Haven't changed a single setting since before. Did change from poll position to rising edge like holley says and still the same thing. Dang cant upload the logs. I sent these logs to diyautotune to see what they say.
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What's the trigger wheel pattern?
Matts440
Well-Known Member
36 with 1 missung
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