4 speedin
Well-Known Member
Can anyone tell me the correct part number for a 68 340 alternator please
Thanks Mike
Thanks Mike
68 340 alternator #
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4 speedin
Well-Known Member
Thank you much Brian! What kind of book do you have?
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
check a 68 FSM
remember to do all the wiring mods if you go to a higher amp alternator- plenty of info in the net and a good idea even with stock amps
the through the firewall cavities are known disasters as are the ignition sw and ammeter, and light sw
you can copy the wiring from an Imperial which uses a shunt or run directly from alt to battery (with fuzzes or circuit breaker)
relay's on the headlights do not hurt either
remember to do all the wiring mods if you go to a higher amp alternator- plenty of info in the net and a good idea even with stock amps
the through the firewall cavities are known disasters as are the ignition sw and ammeter, and light sw
you can copy the wiring from an Imperial which uses a shunt or run directly from alt to battery (with fuzzes or circuit breaker)
relay's on the headlights do not hurt either
Looks like you could use some of these books.
https://www.amazon.com/Books-Galen-Govier/s?tag=fabo03-20
https://www.amazon.com/Books-Galen-Govier/s?tag=fabo03-20
MoparLeo
NRA BENEFACTOR LEVEL LIFE MEMBER
4 speedin
Well-Known Member
Oh Wow! Thank you all for great info. This is an Awesome site with so many good guy's...
Thanks FABO
Thanks FABO
Mattax
Just the facts, ma'am
Factory service manuals are great!
But, the shop manual does not have part numbers.
For part numbers you need a parts book. Since Chrysler's gone through several major upheavals, few dealer service departments still have the old ones - but a few do. If a local one does - that's awsome. Even so, you can get some as downloads from the 'net, or buy paper (generally expensive) or on CD.
For the markings on most parts, thats not always the same as the part number. That's where a book like Gavier's can be helpful, as well as websites such as FABO and moparts where people who care about such things post various examples they've found.
One more thing that is always worth checking is for updates and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). Best on line collection of TSBs is in the The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Library Page (1965 - 1969)
For example there's TSB in '66 about identifying alternators.
For Chrysler tech tips, the most complete collection of bulletins and slide shows is at www.imperialclub.org
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
As far as wiring 'upgrades', I suggest you hold off on any modifications until you truly understand what they do.*
There is no one best way to wire. As another member recently posted, it all depends. Sure - go ahead and check the condition of insulation, connections, and clean or repair any that need. On a '68, the terminals in the bulkhead connectors, the headlight switch connector, and the headlight connectors are often the ones that are the most problematic. Just be careful and take your time disconnecting the bulkhead connectors. The other connectors I'd check, and they are easier to remove, are the ones on the ballast resistor.
Here's a two page overview of how the original system works, what the ammeter shows you, and the role of the fusible link.
Understanding Charging Systems with Ammeter
*One exception. A plug-in headlight relay harness (such as Crackedback makes) requires no other mods.. It doesn't change the design but it takes the headlight load off a series of connections and wires. Finally, its completely reversible. Unplug and you can go back to stock.
But, the shop manual does not have part numbers.
For part numbers you need a parts book. Since Chrysler's gone through several major upheavals, few dealer service departments still have the old ones - but a few do. If a local one does - that's awsome. Even so, you can get some as downloads from the 'net, or buy paper (generally expensive) or on CD.
For the markings on most parts, thats not always the same as the part number. That's where a book like Gavier's can be helpful, as well as websites such as FABO and moparts where people who care about such things post various examples they've found.
One more thing that is always worth checking is for updates and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). Best on line collection of TSBs is in the The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Library Page (1965 - 1969)
For example there's TSB in '66 about identifying alternators.
For Chrysler tech tips, the most complete collection of bulletins and slide shows is at www.imperialclub.org
Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
As far as wiring 'upgrades', I suggest you hold off on any modifications until you truly understand what they do.*
There is no one best way to wire. As another member recently posted, it all depends. Sure - go ahead and check the condition of insulation, connections, and clean or repair any that need. On a '68, the terminals in the bulkhead connectors, the headlight switch connector, and the headlight connectors are often the ones that are the most problematic. Just be careful and take your time disconnecting the bulkhead connectors. The other connectors I'd check, and they are easier to remove, are the ones on the ballast resistor.
Here's a two page overview of how the original system works, what the ammeter shows you, and the role of the fusible link.
Understanding Charging Systems with Ammeter
*One exception. A plug-in headlight relay harness (such as Crackedback makes) requires no other mods.. It doesn't change the design but it takes the headlight load off a series of connections and wires. Finally, its completely reversible. Unplug and you can go back to stock.
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4 speedin
Well-Known Member
That is very good info Mattax! Looks like I have a bit of homework to do, I am about 2/3 complete on my rotisserie resto.
Thank you kindly for your time Sir!
Thank you kindly for your time Sir!
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Wow Guys
going to copy the links to a word file
I've just been doing it all these years
now to find out how wrong I've been
I guess what the bottom line is
DO NOT INSTALL A HIGH AMP ALTERNATOR WITH THE FACTORY WIRING
going to copy the links to a word file
I've just been doing it all these years
now to find out how wrong I've been
I guess what the bottom line is
DO NOT INSTALL A HIGH AMP ALTERNATOR WITH THE FACTORY WIRING
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