My dart has stopped charging and I a lost. It was charging good one day and the next it has stopped, I had the alternator checked and it was found to be working as it should, so I replaced the regulator with a new electronic one and still no charge. The ammeter is working and shows discharge when lights are turned on with engine running so now I am lost. Any one have an idea as to what is going on? Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks DVO
68 DART NO CHARGE
- Thread starter DVO
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You need: A factory service manual, which you can download from MyMopar.com for free
a multimeter
A 12V test lamp, preferably with a real lamp instead of an LED
A couple of alligator clip jumpers
Your usual other tools
Assuming the charging system is not modified, meaning, it has the original style VR and alternator "before '70":
Start by removing the green wire from the alternator, which is the FIELD. Clip a jumper to the alternator field terminal and connect to the battery, AKA the big stud on the starter relay
If in subdued lighting, you should be able to hear and maybe see a small spark as you connect/ disconnect.
Start and run the car, with a multimeter clipped to the battery. Watch the ammeter and the multimeter. Ammeter should come up charging (to right) and voltage should increase. Try not to let it get above 16V adjust with throttle.
If so, alternator is charging, and charge wire/ ammeter circuit is OK
If no charge, or if voltmeter stays down around 12V, move meter to the big stud on rear of alternator. With same setup and engine running at fast idle, note voltage. If it is very high, way above 14 there at the alternator output stud, but NOT so at the battery, there is a problem in the charge path to the battery
If above test shows a charge, move on............................
Remove wires from VR and "rig" a way to jumper them across. This basically repeats the first test of jumpering the field, but now you are checking all the field wiring. Re-reun engine with this bypass and again see if the alternator charges. If so, replace the VR. VR MUST BE GROUNDED MUST!!!
a multimeter
A 12V test lamp, preferably with a real lamp instead of an LED
A couple of alligator clip jumpers
Your usual other tools
Assuming the charging system is not modified, meaning, it has the original style VR and alternator "before '70":
Start by removing the green wire from the alternator, which is the FIELD. Clip a jumper to the alternator field terminal and connect to the battery, AKA the big stud on the starter relay
If in subdued lighting, you should be able to hear and maybe see a small spark as you connect/ disconnect.
Start and run the car, with a multimeter clipped to the battery. Watch the ammeter and the multimeter. Ammeter should come up charging (to right) and voltage should increase. Try not to let it get above 16V adjust with throttle.
If so, alternator is charging, and charge wire/ ammeter circuit is OK
If no charge, or if voltmeter stays down around 12V, move meter to the big stud on rear of alternator. With same setup and engine running at fast idle, note voltage. If it is very high, way above 14 there at the alternator output stud, but NOT so at the battery, there is a problem in the charge path to the battery
If above test shows a charge, move on............................
Remove wires from VR and "rig" a way to jumper them across. This basically repeats the first test of jumpering the field, but now you are checking all the field wiring. Re-reun engine with this bypass and again see if the alternator charges. If so, replace the VR. VR MUST BE GROUNDED MUST!!!
Last edited:
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Once you learn to do this, you will kick yourself for wasting time with parts stores bench tests. You can quickly outpace those tests right on the car. Those tests are not always reliable, either.
mjmayhem
Member
I would also check the bulk head connection. See if they are corroded or pin recessed.
Car only has 277 miles since total rotisserie restoration including bulk head connector and new wiring harnesses. I ran a wire from the positive stud on alternator to positive side of battery and connected multimeter at that spot and ground, showed charging.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Please get the mods to delete your other post. Now you go back and start over. You pretend you just now came on the problem
Very first thing I'd do is to jumper 12V into the field connector on the alternator, watch a voltmeter connected to battery and watch the factory ammeter. Start, run the engine and see if voltage comes up and if amperage increases.
If so MAKE SURE VR is grounded. If so, now jumper the two VR wires together and repeat--run engine and see if voltage comes up.
Below is simplified diagram. The "Ignition +" comes from ignition switch, the same line that powers ignition---Feeds to VR WHICH MUST B GROUNDED----feeds out the bottom on GREEN and goes to the FIELD terminal on the alternator. So by jumpering power into the alternator FIELD you are causing it to charge full tilt if it is able. By jumpering across the two VR wires you are testing all the wiring in that field circuit.
IF IT DOES NOT charge when jumpered, MOVE YOUR voltmeter to the alternator output stud, and see if the voltage goes high, very high when running. If so, this shows an open in the charge path from the output of the alternator to the battery
Very first thing I'd do is to jumper 12V into the field connector on the alternator, watch a voltmeter connected to battery and watch the factory ammeter. Start, run the engine and see if voltage comes up and if amperage increases.
If so MAKE SURE VR is grounded. If so, now jumper the two VR wires together and repeat--run engine and see if voltage comes up.
Below is simplified diagram. The "Ignition +" comes from ignition switch, the same line that powers ignition---Feeds to VR WHICH MUST B GROUNDED----feeds out the bottom on GREEN and goes to the FIELD terminal on the alternator. So by jumpering power into the alternator FIELD you are causing it to charge full tilt if it is able. By jumpering across the two VR wires you are testing all the wiring in that field circuit.
IF IT DOES NOT charge when jumpered, MOVE YOUR voltmeter to the alternator output stud, and see if the voltage goes high, very high when running. If so, this shows an open in the charge path from the output of the alternator to the battery
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
NO. You will have ZERO evident power, no headlights, tail lights, brake lights or dome lights and no effect from the key such as accessories or crank. The fuse link feeds everything except the main starter cable. About all you can get to function, is, that if you jumper across the starter relay, the starter will crank.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
If you have not done so, you need to wander over to MyMopar and download a service manual, which is free. The manual details such things as how to measure alternator field current draw, which looks for things like faulty brushes or an open or partially shorted field
MATTAX & 67DART273, I have to take a break from my little problem as I have a much bigger one. I haven't been able to do the things that were discussed due to the fact I have been diagnosed with a serious illness and I do not know if and when I will be able to resume with the problem. If all goes well, that time will be soon, but no guarantees. SO for now all is on hold. Thank you both for your assistance, much appreciated. DVO
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