'69 Barracuda T56 swap, floor, cross member

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Had to use compound to get over spray off of paint. A lot of dirt grime came off paint too. Steel wool to get over spray off bumpers. Can't tell it went through floor replacement now.

Plan to drive it an hour away for large local show today. I think its all good mechanically.

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About an hour drive each way, several hundred cars at show, made the trip fine. Brake pedal feels more mushy then it should like brakes need more thorough bleeding. But otherwise car ran good. A lot of 5'th and 6'th gear driving at speed low RPMs engine stays nice and cool. Over drive gears so nice on the road trips. Barked tires when I shifted to second and third when I left show light throttle.

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Modifying an extra '69 and earlier AC bracket to mount Sanden compressor. Goal is to use the front third grove in crank pulley as original AC belt did. Also use original AC idler pulley setup.

Rear support bracket is custom and mounts to a longer water pump to timing cover bolt.

Original numbers matching 340 is used for mock up so I don't have to lean over fender of car etc.

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Installed on engine in car to check belt alignment. I still had the AC belt back when original compressor was on car in 1982 and it fits.

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Custom condenser to filter drier hard line. Hard line from filter drier to firewall is original to the car.

Some guy on this forum used same condenser and custom hard line on a bronze '69 318 fastback. So I stole all the info from his build and copied it.

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Mounted PS cooler on its own brackets down low so it gets a bunch of air on it as I drive. Pulled car outside washed it wiped down engine compartment.

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Cut the suction and pressure hoses to size, crimped the hose ends on, and test fit hoses.

Tweaked shape of liquid line on inner fender so that the two P Clamps line up with the two original phillips screws that were left there for decades to hold liquid line in place.

Key in run position verified 12 volts to compressor clutch when AC dash button in AC mode.

Inching closer to working AC. Need to paint old surface rust liquid line etc but looking to charge / test AC here shortly...

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Fittings at compressor painted black. Liquid hard lines sanded/wire brush surface rust off, flushed, cleaned then painted aluminum.

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Installed AC lines and vacuumed it down. It held vacuum for an hour so charged it with one can and it holds pressure for hours so far. I have what looks like a failed alternator so decided wait for new alternator before running car. So thats where I left it.

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Been burning rubber grabbing gears for a while now so decided to drain mineral based break in trans fluid and put synthetic fluid in that Silver Sport sent when I bought conversion kit.

Found out trans drain plug is behind trans cross member so have to drop cross member to get to drain plug. Would have to drop H Pipe down to remove cross member so I just let fluid splash over cross member because less work. No metal in fluid at all.

Next I have to suck gear oil out of the 8 3/4 and refill since Doc Diff is taking months to get the Dana rear done. I have a Cone Auburn Pro sure grip in there frequent fluid changes help it live longer.

Gonna change oil and filter too while I have it on lift.

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if you weld a nut to the bottom of the diff casing then centre punch and drill inside the nut you'll be able to fully drain it easily. just screw a stubby bolt with either a copper washer or a dowty seal in to seal it up.
neil.
ps weld the nut on first, it's hard to stop the case dripping otherwise and we all know oil and welding doesn't go well together.
 
if you weld a nut to the bottom of the diff casing then centre punch and drill inside the nut you'll be able to fully drain it easily. just screw a stubby bolt with either a copper washer or a dowty seal in to seal it up.
neil.
ps weld the nut on first, it's hard to stop the case dripping otherwise and we all know oil and welding doesn't go well together.
Thanks for tip. The 8 3/4 is going to be swapped out for a Dana S-60 in near future.
 
I had car back on lift today checking things over and took a picture of side of trans. My trans has the boss for the side drain plug but on my trans the hole was not drilled and tapped for that drain plug. All the pictures of a T56 Magnum show a drain plug there. And ppl in another thread with same trans part number have a drain plug there? So looks like I am only one who has to drop cross member to drain trans with the rear drain plug under cross member.

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I had car back on lift today checking things over and took a picture of side of trans. My trans has the boss for the side drain plug but on my trans the hole was not drilled and tapped for that drain plug. All the pictures of a T56 Magnum show a drain plug there. And ppl in another thread with same trans part number have a drain plug there? So looks like I am only one who has to drop cross member to drain trans with the rear drain plug under cross member.

View attachment 1716378889

That's crazy. I had to go look!
Mine is a T56 Magnum TUET11009; looks like it is different than yours.

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And picture from American Powertrain web:
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8 3/4 removed and Strange S-60 Dana rear swapped in. Going from 391 to 373 gears along with 1 inch taller 255-60R15 tires on 15x7 big bolt pattern steel wheels painted body color. Wheel backspace is 4.5 inch. Stock leaf spring spacing.

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