69 Dart 4 door cruiser

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Kern Dog

Build your car to handle.
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Getting old changes your perspective.
In the days of our youth, most dudes would rather walk than to drive a 4 door car. 4 doors and station wagons were uncool family cars driven by moms and married dudes. NO single guy wanted them, they just were not our style.
That was how I felt and all my friends shared the sentiment. We all had Darts, Dusters, Camaros, Firebirds, Chevelle and pickup trucks….all of them were 2 door models.
As I approach 60, I am seeing that 4 door classics can also be cool but maybe for a different reason. Nowadays, just seeing any classic on the road is great.
Last year I did some trade work for a guy and he paid me with this:

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1969 Dodge Dart “Custom” 4 door. Of COURSE it is green.

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Of COURSE it has hubcaps. It was a slant six model but now has a 1973-76 spool type k member. I got it as you see it, a roller but expected to see 9” drum brakes. I planned on doing the usual….swap in an 11” front disc setup and an 8 1/4 from a 70s A body or an 8 3/4 from a 68-70 B body.
Am I lucky?
It already has the 11” front discs. The rear has 11” drums but also an 8 1/4” axle!

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I have a mild 360 planned for it along with an A-500. The .69 overdrive ratio will take a 3.23 to 2.22 and a 3.55 to 2.44. What gear ratio is this one?
I jacked up the right rear to get the tire off the ground so I could spin the tire to read the ratio stamped in the ring gear.

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The tire wouldn’t turn. Why?

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Really? A Sure Grip in an 8 1/4” axle? How rare is that? I raised the left side and was able to spin both tires. From there I found the stamps but they are hard to read. The thin ring gear meant no 3.23 or 3.55, the only gears I want to use.

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That sort of looks like a 2.71. That is a known ratio. I counted 46 teeth on the ring gear and 17 on the pinion. That comes up to….

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It always surprises me when I see such a tall ratio with a Sure Grip. I have a set of 3.21 gears from another 8 1/4 but I’d prefer a 3.55. Does anyone know if this case can accommodate a 3.55 gears? I remember that there are instances where certain carriers only work up to a certain ratio like a 2.45 and taller use one carrier, a 2.71 and lower use another, etc.
 
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I think you're right on which carrier accepts what. You know, unless you just want to do the A500 mods.....you could use an A998/999 and have the same low first gear set and it would bolt right in with no whacking on the tunnel or torsion bar crossmember. Kind of a poor man's OD. 3.55's would be my choice also if you really want to do the A500. That will be a neat car when you get it going. I believe I would rock it down the road with the patina it has!
 
I actually have both an A-999 and an A-500. I wanted to use the overdrive in this to make it a good all around cruiser. The floor pan mods don’t scare me. I can weld and grind!
Nothing is set in stone though. I often change my mind during a project.
 
A Sure Grip in an 8 1/4” axle? How rare is that?
Yeah,the 73-76 Dart Sport and Duster the Sure Grip was a option.
I have no problem with more door Mopars. Owned many and have one now.
Nice project you have there.
I think the 2.71 is ok carrier it's the 2.45 gear set that has the different carrier.
Don't quote me on it.Been along time from the last time dealing with a 8 1/4.
Oh yeah food for thought. Ma Mopar was dealing with a strike in the 73-74 years and parts were in short supply.The went into the parts bins and snatched up 11x2'' drums and shoes from the slow selling "C" body cars and used them on "A"body cars to keep production going.
 
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I know mid 2000's jeep liberty's had 8.25 rear ends and i believe most were geared in the 3.2x-3.7x range and many had limited slips. Maybe you can grab an entire carrier and pinion out of one of those and drop it in?
I love the 4 door cruiser and you have an amazing start to that project already
I'm in the process of restoring a 68 2 door post car shell (dream car) and will eventually swap all the guts over from the 4 door to the 2 door. But I'm enjoying the 4 door while I can
(360 - 727 - 7.25, bbp disks up front and sbp rear. Soon going to swap in 4 speed and bbp 8.75)

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I thought it might be an axle from an M body Police car but the leaf spring pads are still the A body 43" center to center. That 2.71 ratio kills it for me though. The build is meant to be a cruiser but I want it to snap out of the hole too. The overdrive transmissions sure let you have a wider range of driving fun like a newer car.

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I don't know if I'll ever tear it down to do the body and paint. Maybe I will but I'm not sure yet. The 360 planned for it is currently in this car:

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It is a standard bore 1970s era 360 with #308 heads, some Weiand 4 barrel intake and a MP 280/474 cam that actually runs quite well. The black Dart has 4.10 gears and really scrams for such a mild engine. It would neuter the engine to step way back to 2.71 gears.
I thought that the 8 1/4" axles had some design change in the mid 90s where everything before those years is one design and after that the components don't mix well with the older stuff.
 
I've never dealt with 8.25s before so I'm not sure about interchange of parts of years. I always thought there was a limit of carriers in the sense of 1 carrier for the higher range of gears, and another carrier for the lower range of gears and I dont know where the split would have been. All i know is that before I got the 8.75, i was on the verge of finding a good jeep liberty rear end to drop in my dart
 
Women tell me all the time how nice my gray hair is.
I tell 'um it's grey all over too !!
 
You was paid well in my book sir. Set up with disk breaks and 8 1/4 sure grip under a beuity of a Dart, like you I do enjoy seeing these more door cars and long tops, at 67 now I am glad I put a shur grip in my 8 1/4, now! hang on to your hat I have 2.97 or 2.92 behind my 360 build and it makes my 66 Plymouth Valiant Sedan feel like a 440 is under the hood, even put a sway bar under the front-end. At a stop light she squats and moves out, but when it gets to 16 hundred rpms I better have at lest a half a tank because it moves all the gas to the rear of the tank, by the time I hit 47 hundred she stall right out, no gas to the carb.
My 8 1/4 would not hold a 3.55 gear I had, but now that I drive here I am quite happy with cruising 65 at 18 hundred rpms.
I would be breaking u-joints if I had 4.10 or 3.55 gears if I got a good bite, but that's what 7 inch to 8 inch tires are for, they break loose.

Well, I will be watching, learning and enjoying this build. Took me 7 years.

But loosing 3 brothers every other year in those 7 years I did drag my feet.

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Losing family members is a hard punch to the gut. It hurts the soul. I’ve often wondered about what is worse…. Being the first to go or the last.
Sorry to veer so off topic but I’ll be back on target in a moment!
 
I thought it might be an axle from an M body Police car but the leaf spring pads are still the A body 43" center to center. That 2.71 ratio kills it for me though. The build is meant to be a cruiser but I want it to snap out of the hole too. The overdrive transmissions sure let you have a wider range of driving fun like a newer car.

View attachment 1716405720

I don't know if I'll ever tear it down to do the body and paint. Maybe I will but I'm not sure yet. The 360 planned for it is currently in this car:

View attachment 1716405721

It is a standard bore 1970s era 360 with #308 heads, some Weiand 4 barrel intake and a MP 280/474 cam that actually runs quite well. The black Dart has 4.10 gears and really scrams for such a mild engine. It would neuter the engine to step way back to 2.71 gears.
I thought that the 8 1/4" axles had some design change in the mid 90s where everything before those years is one design and after that the components don't mix well with the older stuff.
i like the black one.
 
The black car....
It really deserves to be treated better but I love the freedom of sliding around in the dirt with it, not worrying about scratches. It started out like this:

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This 4 door came to me with the underhood area pretty much stripped out.

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The wire harness is in the trunk, as is the wiper motor and a few other bits.
I need brake lines though. I can make them as needed.
First will be the front brake line that attaches to the firewall. I'm going to have to make one from a roll of 3/16" tubing, shaping it to the form that is needed. I wish that I had a pattern to do this!
My first plan was to swap in a B body 8 3/4 axle but seeing the 8 1/4" axle in there was a nice feeling. The 8 1/4" axle is plenty strong and is already in place. I have been casually looking around for a set of 3.55s or 3.91s to swap in.
 
I don’t like the gray hair but the wife seems okay with it.
The other stuff still works.
Agreed. First to go was the red in my beard. I was a bit vain about that, and I'm too proud to dye it.

Dye?!?!?! That's for old farts dag nabbit! Back in my day... Boy, I'm tellin yah... we didn't drive 4 doors or wagons! Them cars was for nerds. And another thing, we didn't have no sissy "air conditioning," nosiree! We opened the windwings, and the ball-dryer-vents and hoped a wasp nest wasn't in there where a swarm of angry stinging fuckers wouldn't fly up our shorts and sting us on said sweaty balls! You kids nowadays got it easy with her faggot automatic transmissions and your crossdressing hybrids and your girlfriends with tattoos instead of ta-tas!
 
Getting old changes your perspective.
In the days of our youth, most dudes would rather walk than to drive a 4 door car. 4 doors and station wagons were uncool family cars driven by moms and married dudes. NO single guy wanted them, they just were not our style.
That was how I felt and all my friends shared the sentiment. We all had Darts, Dusters, Camaros, Firebirds, Chevelle and pickup trucks….all of them were 2 door models.
As I approach 60, I am seeing that 4 door classics can also be cool but maybe for a different reason. Nowadays, just seeing any classic on the road is great.
Last year I did some trade work for a guy and he paid me with this:

View attachment 1716405496

1969 Dodge Dart “Custom” 4 door. Of COURSE it is green.

View attachment 1716405497

Of COURSE it has hubcaps. It was a slant six model but now has a 1973-76 spool type k member. I got it as you see it, a roller but expected to see 9” drum brakes. I planned on doing the usual….swap in an 11” front disc setup and an 8 1/4 from a 70s A body or an 8 3/4 from a 68-70 B body.
Am I lucky?
It already has the 11” front discs. The rear has 11” drums but also an 8 1/4” axle!

View attachment 1716405498

I have a mild 360 planned for it along with an A-500. The .69 overdrive ratio will take a 3.23 to 2.22 and a 3.55 to 2.44. What gear ratio is this one?
I jacked up the right rear to get the tire off the ground so I could spin the tire to read the ratio stamped in the ring gear.

View attachment 1716405501

The tire wouldn’t turn. Why?

View attachment 1716405502

Really? A Sure Grip in an 8 1/4” axle? How rare is that? I raised the left side and was able to spin both tires. From there I found the stamps but they are hard to read. The thin ring gear meant no 3.23 or 3.55, the only gears I want to use.

View attachment 1716405503

That sort of looks like a 2.71. That is a known ratio. I counted 46 teeth on the ring gear and 17 on the pinion. That comes up to….

View attachment 1716405507

It always surprises me when I see such a tall ratio with a Sure Grip. I have a set of 3.21 gears from another 8 1/4 but I’d prefer a 3.55. Does anyone know if this case can accommodate a 3.55 gears? I remember that there are instances where certain carriers only work up to a certain ratio like a 2.45 and taller use one carrier, a 2.71 and lower use another, etc.

I look at that car and I think of...

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I’m not the kind that would sink a bunch of money into a 4 door. If this were a 73-76 Dart, as much as I like all of them, I would have just parted the car out.
The 67-69 body style just works for me. I love it.
Looking through the car, I was reminded of the stash of brake hard lines that were in the car when I got it. The first picture looks like master cylinder to a distribution block or proportioning valve.

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Second picture is the long front one that attaches to the firewall. This is the one I figured I’d have to make. I blew compressed air through these lines and they are clear.

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I used the old Power Wagon to push the car inside.

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Dusty, dirty and sitting funny. Some prior owner started upgrading stuff but abandoned the project. It has a 73-76 slant 6 k member and 73-76 disc brakes. The right front sits up 1 1/2” higher at the wheel opening than the left side. The camber and caster angles are WAY off.

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All of these cars have a tendency to lose large amounts of caster with the front ride height above stock. Having no engine or transmission in place, the height is often way up high. To add, the rear UCA mount cam bolts are both all the way out. The rear needs to be IN to get caster with stock parts. I’ll inspect everything as I go and replace what is bad. I have some offset bushings to help add caster. Last week I aligned a 68 Dart and was able to get 3 degrees of caster with stock bushings and adjustable strut rods. I think I can get at least 2 degrees of caster with the offset UCA bushings and stock strut rods.
The leaf springs…..
Wow, it is as if they were designed to deliver a super soft ride. I can push down and get the car to sink maybe 3-4 inches. My ex wife in the trunk would have the bumper dragging.
This build will not be as butched as a Roadkill feature car but I will cut corners where I can. I’ll be using hand-me-down parts, modified used stuff and whatever low buck things I can use that works and is reliable.
Torsion bars? I’ll be using a set of .92s I got from @RBConvert, a fellow FABO friend. Front sway bar will be a modified bar from a 73-87 Chevy 1 ton 2WD truck. I have a 3/4” rear bar in the shop. I’ll mix and match leaf springs from the stash of parts out back to get a firmer ride. I may even use leftover KYB shocks if the mood strikes.
Used parts for nuts,bolts and brackets but new gaskets and fluids. I am not reusing head gaskets or oil.
The goal is to make it reasonably quick while handling far better than stock. I intend to keep it looking plain like it does….green with wheel covers. I’ll have to do something to keep them in place because cornering hard tends to send them rolling away.
 
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How about a set of “Counterfeit Konis” ?

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These are just some KYBs painted orange.

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Someone put in a set of bolt in frame connectors.

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I kind of wonder how effective they would be in a 4 door car where the roof adds more strength and stiffness than a 2 door hardtop.

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They are already in. Holes have been drilled to mount them so I guess they will stay. I may weld the perimeters, remove the bolts and fill the holes.
11 inch rear brakes….?

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It seems you’d want a 10” rear drum in a light car with the 11” front discs. The “proportioning” of these cars was hit and miss from what I’ve read. I sure don’t want the rear’s skidding before the front.

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I have a few sets of 10” drums to swap. That will likely wait until I have the gears changed in the axle since the axle shafts have to come out for a gear change and to remove the backing plates.
 
Don't fuss over the gear ratio. Just load it on a trailer and bring it over here. There is a 3.23 SG 8-3/4 with a low gear 904 variant just waiting. Along with a 360 or really shock them with a Poly 318.:lol:

(only kidding-enjoy the car!)
 
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