69 Dart Rear End Swap - Looking at Ford 8.8

-
Steven Dubois

Steven Dubois

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2018
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
California
Hello All, New here to the forums.

I know there's a lot of good info about rear end swaps but i still have a few questions.

I have a 69 Dart and was told a Ford Ranger 8.8 rear end will mount up with no cutting on the axle because the diff is not offset.

My questions are:

1. Will the lug pattern match the Mopar 5 x 4.5?
2. Is there enough clearance for wheels or do i need special offset rims? I Think the rear end I'm looking at measures to 59".
3. What do i need to mount the stock driveshaft? Is there an adapter and do i need to shorten it?
4. Can i use stock shock plates or are new ones needed?
5. What u-bolts are recommended?
6. Brake lines, any info i need to know on adapting?
7. 373s ok with a 440?

I appreciate any links to threads or help on this one. thanks guys.

-Steven
 
Why a Ford I would put an 8 3/4 in I believe that the Ford has a metric bolt circle and lugs also a flange style yoke
 
Cause nobody can afford a 8 3/4 anymore. I got $300.00 total in my 8.8 373 limited splip. And that is with all new brakes.
 
They make a conversion rear end yoke to accept your Chrysler U joint.I used a suv 8.8 and cut the one side down. The ranger rear end was a little narrow unless you are going to widen the rear tubs.Buy 8.8 u bolts.And you will have to open up the holes a bit on the shock plates for the u bolts to fit.
 
Original a body housing are way over priced I don't know anyone who has done this swap so keep the info flowing
 
There's a huge 8.8 swap thread on here. Search it. Lots of good info that has all been covered. The only thing I would add is I've never shortened a rear end, I would call my skills average and I would say it was a piece of cake. And that's with shortening one side of an explorer diff. It would require a welder though.
8.8 swap
 
moparmandan said:
There's a huge 8.8 swap thread on here. Search it. Lots of good info that has all been covered. The only thing I would add is I've never shortened a rear end, I would call my skills average and I would say it was a piece of cake. And that's with shortening one side of an explorer diff. It would require a welder though.
8.8 swap
Click to expand...


Thanks great thread! Only, this one is out of an explorer and requires cutting the axle down. I hear that the ranger doesn't require cutting.. Can anyone confirm?
 
EEAF2AEF-9ADE-4554-B5DD-D01B9C6D4C4D.png
Benjamin Thomas Powell said:
Not what I’m seeing here.
Click to expand...

47A497B7-0090-4AA7-8F70-ECE72E2B1BD0.png
 
I just got one out of a 91 ranger. 3:55 track lock .my 67 dart 7 1/4 is 57 1/8" flange to flange. Ranger rear is 57" and pumpkin is offset to passenger side by only 2". Still need to weld on new spring perches.
 
Why would you center your diff, when your engine and trans are offset?
 
Factory diff is offset also. No cutting required. That's why people hunt for Ranger rears.
 
Steven Dubois said:
In this thread he cut his diff



So to confirm you're saying minus the perches being on top the rear end is a direct bolt in? The offsets match?
Click to expand...
Steven Dubois said:
So to confirm you're saying minus the perches being on top the rear end is a direct bolt in? The offsets match?
Click to expand...
pull out a tape measure and check it on the pulled one and stock diff. That will give you the guaranteed correct answer. It’s also easiest since you have both in hand
 
Steven Dubois said:
So to confirm you're saying minus the perches being on top the rear end is a direct bolt in? The offsets match?
Click to expand...
Yes on the perches.
Match? Close enough.
Seriously, there is a whole lot of information on the swap already on this site. U-joint. E brake. Probably why you're not getting a lot of feedback. Surf around a little bit. Enjoy!
 
Benjamin Thomas Powell said:
pull out a tape measure and check it on the pulled one and stock diff. That will give you the guaranteed correct answer. It’s also easiest since you have both in hand
Click to expand...


UPDATE: here’s the two rear ends side by side. From what it measure it’s off by about 1” towards the passenger side. Hoping I can offset the motor and trans a bit to compensate. If anyone else has any ideas or insight please share. Thanks.

1A1BC60C-6AE3-43D2-8C24-6F919E59A886.jpeg


508A91C1-A561-486B-8D78-CF715A4EDF61.jpeg
 
Just weld the new spring perches on with the correct distance from each backing plate and the same distance between each other to match your old ones and your leaf springs and it should be fine
 
the explorer rear is a little better than the ranger, it has 31 spline axles and disc brakes. ive used the 8.8 in jeeps for years, make sure you weld the tubes to the center section, thats one of the weak spots. also if you got a limited slip one ford racing has a cheap carbon clutch pack thats pretty agressive, not as good as a locker but for under $100 its nice.
 
Allow me to straighten a few of you out. Other than clearance in the tunnel, offset or not is not an issue.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top