69 Notch Barracuda - Rebirth

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New seals, pistons, dust boots, should be fine.

If your redoing this brake system w all new stuff might i recommend using DOT 5 silicone based brake fluid. It will not eat paint if spilled on it, and will not wick up moisture causing line rot or sticking pistons and wheel cylinders over time like DOT 3 will.

These 2 cannot be mixed, so i would recommend placarding the master cylinder as such if you do this so you dont mistakenly cross contaminate the system later on with DOT 3 by accident.

We did DOT 5 on my dads lil red express when we restored it. Absolutely no difference in brake pedal feel or grab compared to DOT 3.
 
Your better off replacing that 50 year old rusty crap with brand new parts anyway. RockAuto makes it cheap enough to replace
 
Do you know how to initially set the brake self adjustors w a brake spoon? Theres a trick i learned from an old timer back in the 80s works well.
 
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Use brake spoon to run the brake adjustor wheels out and turn the drums until you feel and hear the shoes just about drag on the drums. Then pump the brakes. That centers up the shoes to the drums, then use the spoon to run the adjustors out again until you barely feel the shoes start to drag on the drums while turning them. At that point your pretty much set. The self adjustors will take it from there.
 
Use brake spoon to run the brake adjustor wheels out and turn the drums until you feel and hear the shoes just about drag on the drums. Then pump the brakes. That centers up the shoes to the drums, then use the spoon to run the adjustors out again until you barely feel the shoes start to drag on the drums while turning them. At that point your pretty much set. The self adjustors will take it from there.
 
If set right they will stop good. 4 wheel power drums can work decent. Its all in how they are adjusted from the get go.
 
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But a disc drum combo works better, 4 wheel discs are really overrated anyways. Its only eyecandy. Rears only do maybe 20% of the stopping.
 
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You are on a roll this week, making me feel guilty with all that work! Glad to see your brake rebuilds all held, got my rebuilt calipers sitting on the shelf with my fingers crossed as they haven’t been tested yet.
 
Trick I learned for reassembly, if you are not aware already: Find a wooden dowel the same diameter as the shaft that goes though the case that the countershaft floats on. Cut it to the same length as the countershaft so it can sit inside without protruding. Pack the needle bearings in grease and put them around the dowel. You will have an assembly which is the countergear, the bearings, and the dowel. You slide the whole assembly in place. The dowel keeps the needle bearings where they belong. You then use the shaft that presses in from the outside of the case to displace the dowel as you install it.
 
Great build thread. Love how you get in there do it all yourself.

I also have orig manual disc on my "69. You might already know but thought I mention some things I did to make my brakes work better. I went with 15/16 bore master cylinder instead of the larger bore to increase brake pressure reduce leg effort. The other thing which is a must is smaller rear wheel cylinders. I believe originals we're 15/16 and cause excessive premature rear wheel lock up. I ran 7/8 rear wheel cylinders much better. Recently swapped in 13/16 rear wheel cylinders they work great. I run red EBC pads up front adjustable prop.valve full pressure to the rear along with newly rebuilt front calipers. Brakes feels well balanced front to back. I can lock the tires up without much leg effort. Sorry if you already know but I struggled to get my brakes working well for decades so thought I share.
 
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JAndrea said:
Dialed in the Bellhousing. This went very well. The most difficult part was setting up the damn dial indicator :realcrazy:. I tried a couple of different methods but liked the Hurst method best. In the end my runout was .013” from farthest to closest of centerline. Divide that by 2 to get .007” from center... so that’s the size offset dowel pins I’ll buy from Robbmc Performance. Pins will be clocked to shift Bellhousing in the direction of the silver mark (0), the side closest to the centerline. At least... I think I’ve got it all figured out ;)

View attachment 1715206496

View attachment 1715206497
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Yep that's a pain in the butt
 
I love black steelies with chrome lug nuts, and body colored steelies w dog dishes. I am all about the poverty pack equipped cars
 
I love the yellow. I am doing my sleeper 408 4 speed no console 67 that very yellow, no vinyl top, yellow steelies dog dish caps and black gut. Gonna drive around in it wearing a sport coat and a fedora. Thats a color that flys under the cop radar.
 
JAndrea said:
Dialed in the Bellhousing. This went very well. The most difficult part was setting up the damn dial indicator :realcrazy:. I tried a couple of different methods but liked the Hurst method best. In the end my runout was .013” from farthest to closest of centerline. Divide that by 2 to get .007” from center... so that’s the size offset dowel pins I’ll buy from Robbmc Performance. Pins will be clocked to shift Bellhousing in the direction of the silver mark (0), the side closest to the centerline. At least... I think I’ve got it all figured out ;)
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Suggest also check axial runout to ensure tranny will sit square to the block - although I suspect it will be OK since your radial runout is very small. Plus it looks like tranny mated easily so I'm sure it will be fine.
Jim
 

Wham, bam back on the road. Love how you get in there and just make it happen. Lot of good advice. Folks can get so caught up in the over researching they get paralyzed and make no progress. You move, improvise and your attention to detail is where it needs be. Spot on focus! Very nice thread and build progress indeed. Make it so #1!
 
Be careful with the vise grips, I've never done that with a bar I wanted to keep. The highest level of stress in the torsion bar is on the surface, any damage there creates a stress riser and a potential location for the bar to snap.

I usually loosen the nut on the lower control arm and then put a pry bar between the K-frame and the lower control arm and push it back.
 
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